ring ding vs. cotter pin

[banjoman]

When I took the rigging off of my modiefied H-28 there was a mix of ring pins and cotter pins. I couldn't figure out any rhyme or reason to what was used where. Rings and pins were used both aloft and on deck.

What is standard practice (if any) for the use of pins versus rings?

mike

[S/V Laura Ellen]

When I took the rigging off of my modiefied H-28 there was a mix of ring pins and cotter pins. I couldn't figure out any rhyme or reason to what was used where. Rings and pins were used both aloft and on deck.

What is standard practice (if any) for the use of pins versus rings?

mike

Disclaimer: The following is my opinion only.

I've used both on my Northern25 (frozen snot boat) and still prefer the cotter pins over the ring for the clevis pins. I use the rings to lock the turnbuckles.

There was probably no rhyme or reason to how they were used on your boat since many people used then interchangeably. Some people like the rings because they are less likely to snag and tear sails.

On a classic wooden boat there is only one option, cotter pins. Tape them to reduce the sharp edges. The self amalgamating rubber rigging tape is ideal for covering the cotter pins or you can use the more aesthetic looking leather turnbuckle boots.

[rbgarr]

Rings, if snagged by a line or sail can be straightened out in a split second and subsequently fall out. Bad news. I still use stainless ones however, but tape them.

Harken has come out with a pin embedded in rubber attached to a velcro covering strap for turnbuckles that you want to adjust regularly. $$$

[Dan McCosh]

The standard cotter keys are more reliable, but can produce snaggy edges depending on how they are cinched. The rings can snag lines or cloth, which then straightens them and can pull them out. I've encountered this mainly on turnbuckles on shrouds, where they run close running sheet lines. It does seem counterintuitive, as this is where the ring looks as if it would be snag-free. I used to use lots of rungs in areas where they have to be removed regularly. Now i lean toward conventional keys, but try to user bronze--which are much easier to work with than stainless or brass.

[Bob Cleek]

A properly installed cotter pin (with the "legs" just slightly spread) can be removed easily with a marline spike point or pliers and just as easily replaced. Rings can be difficult to install and remove. A bit of tape solves the snagging problems on cotters. Just my preferance.

[Jay Greer]

Nothing is more anixety producing than having a cotter ring fall on deck from aloft with a bounce and tinkle while sailing off shore at night.
Need I say more?
Jay

[Woxbox]

My experience, too. The rings get popped out surprisingly easily. I've still used them on trailered boats where I need to pull them routinely -- but you've got to keep an eye on them.

[John B]

along Bob's path....I recall reading Rod Stephens policy on cotter pins. IIRC he preferred to bend one leg slightly and that was it.

Having had to remove one double bent curved around the clevis pin from a near inaccessible place on my car lying on my back bent over the sill legs in the air and head on a spare screwdriver on sunday( with cursing in order to focus ki), I'm with him.

[banjoman]

Pins it is!

Once the stuff is up I want it to stay up for a loooong time...especially after paying the bill for the wire/swaging and bronze turnbuckles.

Thanks for the input!

[Ian McColgin]

I bend just one leg for attaching cotter to clevis. If the fit is correct - the clevis not too long - the cotter will lie flat in the fitting and cannot snag anything. If the fit is not correct, fix it.

For holding the turnbuckle, Brion Toss developed the use of a bent bit of welding rod spanning to both studs. Very neat, cheap, easy to remove.

With good fit and welding rod, the days of unsightly tape, silly looking PVC boots and pretentious velcro are gone.

Don't use anything except bronze of stainless, unless you love rusted in useless fittings or unless you just dry sail fresh water.

G'luck

[Jay Greer]

My own method of securing a turnbuckle, once adjusted, is to place a round head stainless steel machine screw into the upper cotter hole. This has been preset by tapping the hole. The turnbuckle is then free to slightly turn on the bottom screw as the rigging takes up and relaxes. The helps to eliminate wire fatigue at the entry in the swaged marine eyes.
Jay