16' Melonseed Skiff

[Don Scott]

I am new to the boatbuilding game so you must forgive me if I jump through old hoops. I am building the Wooden Boat Store version of this skiff and whilst I am delighted with the plans in general I have to say that some information is lacking or absent. I make no complaint as I understand that many designs and designers leave a few methods to the imagination.

However, I hope there is someone out there who has built this version , or is familiar enough with it to say something about the centerboard. The plan gives no details on construction and there are hardly any clues as to the basic operation of this unit. Here are a couple of questions I hope might be answered initially. As you are already aware, I am new to all this so we are talking about basics here.

1. How is the board raised and how is it kept in that position ?
2. How is the board lowered and how is it kept in that position ?

Yes! OK...that's four questions but any light you can shed on this subject will be gratefully devoured.

I look forward to being inundated but steady now....I am only a little melonseed as yet...keep it simple unless you want to talk about it amongst yourselves and I will sit in the corner and do my best to fathom it all out.

Best Wishes,

Don Scott
PS : Remember that a picture (or even a drawing?) is worth a thousand words !!!

[Nicholas Scheuer]

My 13-ft lapstrake cedar Melon Seed has a White Oak daggerboard that has no problem staying down all by itself. Sometimes friction would keep it halfway up if tipped aft in the case; sometimes not, so I drilled a hole for a wooden pin located just above the lower edge of the case when the board is full-down.

Moby Nick

[Don Scott]

Nicholas

No, this Barto 16' version calls for a centerboard but gives virtually no detail regarding the operational side of things. I note that there are many viewings of this thread but as yet, no one has come up with an answer....I live in hope !

I understand that a daggerboard would drop under its own weight and stay there but a centerboard would surely be at least partially forced back on its fulcrum due to force of water if there was no 'down lock'. Of course, I also understand that the board would have to 'giveway' in the event of striking a submerged object. However, I don't want to get into anything too technical....yet.

I already have some ideas about a design for this unit but I would rather hear some traditional views before I start reinventing the wheel !!!

Don Scott
PS : I am 68 years old and time goes by....so if there is anyone out there holding the secret....you better be quick....this may be my last new hobbie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Quote : The newly organised 'Movement' to bring everything to a standstill is slowly gaining momentum !

[Russ Manheimer]

Don,

The centerboard is usualy weighted so it has negative bouyancy. The pennant (a line attached near the top aft end of the board) is led through a hole in the top of the case and then to a cleat. It's then used to lower or raise the board.

You can also attach a stick to the board, having a pivot where it's attached. The stick is used to push down the board and lies flat on the case when raised. Thre's usually a notch or wedge used for intermediate positions.

There are other methods where the centerboard has an arm extendin our of the case that's attached to a tackle, but is usually used in racing boats. Most folks use the pennant version.

Have fun,

Russ

[Andrew]

You weight the CB with lead and have a line & cleat to pull up and hold the CB in the up position when needed. In a nutshell, you cut a hole, typically circular near the bottom of the CB. Put put a temporary back plate on it. Tack nails around the circumfrumce of the circle to hold the lead inplace, then cast the lead (reasearch this a bit further as there are precautions to be taken). A simpler method is to just use lead shot set in epoxy.

Good choice of boat.

[Thorne]

Depends on the CB and case design. Some cases are sealed at the top, with only the pennon or lever/arm coming through the top. Other cases are open or partially open at the top, with the CB itself usually shaped so that a lever arm or segment protrudes through a slot in the top.

Here's a photo of the CB case for my dory skiff. The top was later sealed, with only the pennon coming out. The small pin with the ring fits into three holes in the CB to hold it in one of three positions -- fully up, halfway down, fully down. CB is weighted with lead, and I had to redo both the rudder and CB as I underestimated the amount of lead needed.

http://www.luckhardt.com/cb-case5.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/final-mid.jpg

[DavidF]

In boatbuilding there are some things that have to be just so, and some things that you just have to make work. For me, this is a big part of the pleasure. I get to use my engineering problem solving mind. You know, the little kid in the basement with a broken clock and a broken toaster and dreams of time travel.

There are plenty of variations to the solutions you seek. Take which ever you like, the one that suits your style. I like the so-simple-you-can-dismantle-it-on-a-beach philosophy. I built my centerboard bomb proof ( I know my sailing style) so all the crap metal in it will keep it firmly anchored to the bottom of the lake, should I ever swamp. And I use a rope and cleat to haul it up. Use bronze or stainless steel rod and bushing for the pivot point. And leave a big hole in the top of the centerboard case covering board so you can jam a stiff metal pole into the centerboard when it gets stuck with mud and rocks, which mine does a lot.

If it works, it is the right way to do it.

[Don Scott]

Thank you all, so far, for the advice and photographs you have provided...I am beginning to get ideas on how the job can be done in the absence of a specific CB design for this particular boat.

I must say that I am enjoying the building of Melonseed and have recently completed the strong back and station molds. I have just acquired all or most of the wood and about to start the proper boatbuilding part.

At the risk of boring you all, I was going to post a picture of my setup but do not understand anything of the business of URLs, etc. when I pressed the add an image button. So, I'm saving you from something you have all seen before.

Lastly, I have been fascinated by all the other threads that will help me in the future like making my own blocks, etc.

Great stuff,

Don Scott

[seedy]

Some photos of my 16' MS here, some shots of the centerboard in there...
16' Lapstrake Melonseed Photos (http://carl.krall.org/gallery3/index.php/boats/melonseed)

[Steve Lansdowne]

You should add enough lead to offset the tendency of the board to float, as it is wooden. Then a bit more. There are scientific ways to figure this out, but a forum search could give you the answer better than I. Of course, the wood removed from the centerboard to house the lead doesn't float, but I doubt that the bouyancy in this relatively small amount of wood will make much difference in your calculations. You can also use the search function to find postings telling you how to post photos. Basically you must have them posted elsewhere on the web, e.g. Imagestation, and then you put a link to that posting in your forum message.