PDA

View Full Version : Plug removal



Pernicious Atavist
02-04-2004, 08:53 AM
I have to remove (teak? ash?) plugs covering screws that hold the fore and decks on my Thistle to the rails. I figure they've been in since the mid-70's when the boat was built. The plugs are in solid shape, which is more than I can say for the decks....

How do I best do this without !@#$%!! the surrounding wood?

Pernicious Atavist
02-04-2004, 08:54 AM
Geez....that should read "Fore- and AFT decks"
Sheesh....

Buddy
02-04-2004, 09:00 AM
I like to drill out a 1/8th inch hole down thru the center till you strike the head of the screw underneath. Then insert an appropriate sized screw and turn. When the tip of the screw strikes the head of the fastener beneath, keep turning and the plug will rise on out without splintering the surrounding wood.

Pernicious Atavist
02-04-2004, 09:18 AM
sounds good. i thought of that, but had to make sure. thanks!

Concordia..41
02-04-2004, 12:16 PM
If the bungs have been expoyied or the glue stronger than the wood:

Removing Screws with Fostner Bit (http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/removingbungs.htm)

stormsvala 2
02-04-2004, 09:06 PM
it seems as though the bungs being shown are not finished. isn't that epoxy still in the base of the hole and fastener head. the other holes follow suit. are you "finishing" up with a pick or such? the forstner bit does make a pretty hole but you need to get at the fastener.

Paul Scheuer
02-04-2004, 10:21 PM
ed: You'll know if there's a problem with glue when you do the first one. Do it in a place that won't show. If all else fails, try a small woodcarver's gouge. After you drill the center, you can carefully split out the bung at the glue line

Ed Harrow
02-04-2004, 10:55 PM
Drilling and screwing may work just fine, but it may chip bits out of the wood surrounding the bung. Assuming you don't have to take the Margo route, my suggestion is to drill a largish hole into the bung, down to the screw, and then use (carefully, of course) an awl or similar tool to split the remaining bit of the bung away from the surrounding wood. It takes longer, but greatly reduces the Uh-Oh factor. If the bungs are epoxied, or otherwise aren't willing to separate from the surrounding wood, then take Margo St.