Wooden Mast Winter Storage?

[steve wiseman]

Although not my first wooden boat, my wooden (strip planked)Rhodes 28'-6" has a 40' (!) mast, my first wooden mast, and is very intimidating to me! She is reported to sail like a witch yet very safe in Lake Michigan's heavy weather which can be quite challenging .

Anyway, I have been restoring her since July and have not been able to tackle the mast yet. I plan on removing all hardware, stripping to bare wood, etc... Is it possible to store it on sawhorses and under plastic tarps over winter? We don't get rain beyond mid to late November (only snow) untill March. I know not to wrap it tight but make sure it's vented. Basically the tarp just drapped over, possibly held up above the mast and secured to the ground with filled plastic jugs. I've just been emailed by one Naval Architect in Maine who says it may develope a set and it should be stored indoors. Other opinions?

Any experience, suggestions, etc...

[mmd]

Indoors is better, but outdoors is OK if you store it properly. It should be supported about every 4 - 6 feet, but would be even better if it was supported on beds such as 2x2's ripped into triangle-section strips (I am assuming that the mast is round). Placed abount an inch apart they will form a groove that the mast will lie in, yet have ventilation on the lower side. If you can get 12-foot 2x2's you will be able to place your supports at 6-foot intervals. Tent the mast under plastic (waterproof canvas is best because it breathes, but is usually too spendy to consider), making sure that the plastic doesn't contact the spar. The more room between spar and plastic. the better the air circulation. Make sure you support the ends of the spars, and that the supports are level along the entire length od the spar. When you lay the spars on the supports, orient the mast with the forward face down and the boom with the sail track up. Make sure there is no exposed raw wood 'cause in your dry winter environment it might dry out too much locally and check or crack. Better to sand out slopped-on varnish next spring than to try and repair damaged wood.

(edit for spelling)

[ 11-03-2005, 12:02 AM: Message edited by: mmd ]

[Paul Scheuer]

Several years ago I faced a similar problem with a 32 foot mast and a 24 foot attached garage. The solution was a small opening in the drywall of the rear wall, which meant that there was also a small opening in the front wall of what was then my study. I considered the extra eight feet in the study a decorative accent. I was careful to put the end with the nifty plated hardware and varnished cleats on the inside. It lived there for many years, even as my study became son's own room. You guys understand, right ?

[Dan McCosh]

I wouldn't recommend a plastic cover. A narrow white cotton tarp is far preferable, lashed fairly tightly to the mast is preferable. The main problem with wooden storage is not taking a set, but that most older wooden masts are not made with waterproof glue. Any extensive condensation or standing water can blow the seams. It is very important to have a reasonable coat of varnish at all times (don't worry about the finish). Partially refinishing and then storing is a recipe for disaster. As for shoring, unless it is unusually bendy, it probably would be fine with four horses. Level it by eye with shims. don't scrimp on the structure of the horses, and don't let one sink in. One issue is the wind in the winter, which can strip off the tarp. or knock the whole thing over. We are entering our 20th season of outside winter storage. We got the tarping material at a local truck-cover supply outfit, and it wasn't all that expensive. It's just a strip of canvas, without any grommets or hems.

[ 11-03-2005, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: Dan McCosh ]

[Carl Simmons]

I was able to hang my mast under the eaves of my roof using bicycle hanging hooks. Of course the mast was only about 4" maximum in dia. but at least I was able to get the entire mast out of the weather.

[uncas]

I question the use of plastic...If the mast is inside...why plastic...? I do not put the stuff on as it has a tendency to collect moisture. If it is inside and dust collects during the winter...easy enough to wipe off and certainly easier than having to revarnish ( assuming it is varnished ).

[steve wiseman]

Dear All,

Thanks so much; what a great and helpful bunch!

The mast is square, varnished, and built in 1959 so I believe is glued with Recorcinol(purple glue lines).
Yes Paul, I would think most of us would understand and I'd do it too but it would come through a block wall and through the Dining room!My wife has been very tolerent of my obsession but...!?

No way to strip the rigging/hardware, slap varnish everywhere (to be stripped later, temporarily putty bolt holes, etc... so I could work on the cleaning/replacing that "stuff" in the winter? I certainly agree one wouldn't want to start it and then cover it up. The stripping and real revarnishing could then wait for Spring.

Canvas or plastic? Wrap tight or not? Seems to be a couple different opinions on that as well? Wouldn't wrapping tight possiply trap water somewhere unseen?

Only on 4 plastic saw horses now so sounds like I need several more.

Thanks Again!
Steve

[lagspiller]

Oh what the ****. I've done this every year for many years. Cover the bastard with something. Let some air in. Don't unscrew anything.
Rub it down and varnish it next spring.
That's it.
It isn't science. Sounds like you guys are taking care of a kid or something.

[steve wiseman]

I can appreciate lagspiller's comments! I doubt our N. Michigan climate is any harsher than in Norway (looks beautiful there)!

Thanks to all!
Steve

[uncas]

Lagspiller and I agree...Or as he posted after me..he agrees...
My wooden mast is under cover...no plastic...I'll take care of the dust next spring before another coat of varnish

[uncas]

Steve....received two/three e-mails but could not reply..
Email address: uncastoo@aol.com

[Bruce Hooke]

Ummm...

Uncas, are you missing the point that he is talking about outside storage?

[uncas]

OOOOPSSSSS Yes...I never even thought that Steve was considering that...I guess having a wooden mast...and thinking about what I would do made me disregard the remainder of the story.
My apologies folks...

[lagspiller]

Didn't mean to sound grumpy, Steve.
Our weather is probably about the same.
Some air, protection from ice/snow and four points of support. It will be fine.

[steve wiseman]

Oh no, I didn't take it as grumpy but a practical and experienced comment that I can appreciate. I did look up your area on the internet and it is a beautiful part of the world and perhaps similar weather.

[steve wiseman]

That was my email, Uncis, since it appeared you may have thought I meant indoors but thanks anyway.
Best, Steve

[uncas]

Obviously my mistake..when I think storing of a wooden mast...I do not think outside...
So be it..The mind jumps in the direction I anticipate it should.
Either that or the dollar signs add up and I look at the value of keeping a mast under cover or out in the open.
Ahhhh. the price of varnish keeps going up...like my taxes.
Good luck...Just keep the moisture out...regardlesds as to whether the mast is inside OR out.
:D

[Dan McCosh]

Only reason I suggest wrapping fairly tightly is to keep the wind from flapping and shaking off the cover. This has happened several times. Wrapping tightly helps to keep the edges from getting too loose. The canvas breathes, so it doesn't collect moisture. The canvas we use actually is a bit shy of being wide enough to completely wrap it up--it leaves a gap on the bottom.

[Uncle Duke]

If the diameter of the mast is not too large, you can make a long tube from sections of PVC piping. Our local plumbers supply shop has 10' lengths at 12" diameter. Drill some holes along the bottom for ventilation, and loosely cover the ends. Put the whole rig on a bunch of sawhorses or other supports.
Wind would no longer be a problem, it would be evenly supported and nicely ventilated.

[Dan McCosh]

I'm picturing trying to slide a 72 ft. mast that weighs 800 lbs. into a 72-ft. long tube. Maybe with a little help from my friends?

[DevonDan]

I'm about to put my mast in a six inch drain pipe attached to the side of the house with a bend at each end pointing downwards for ventilation, but it is only a little over 22 feet long.

Dan

[Uncle Duke]

I'm picturing trying to slide a 72 ft. mast that weighs 800 lbs. into a 72-ft. long tube. Maybe with a little help from my friends?

Ah, not that hard. Like all big problems you solve it by breaking it up into small problems which are easy to solve.
Leave 12' exposed at one end. Slide the 10' section down. Support the exposed end and remove the support at the 12' point, and slide the 10' section past it. Continue until all 10' sections are there. Connect them with splints and duct tape. How hard could it be, right?

Now, if I could only figure out what to do the the 40' carbon-fiber mast sitting in slings on my back fence... The wife is being very patient about having it there, but that will run out someday. Maybe if I paint it so that it looks like ivy?
Different problem, though.

[Lawrie]

Logspiler is right -keep air around it, go ahead and put a thinned coat of varnish on, you can sand right through it in the spring (and sleep better this winter)
- i have a 54' box mast -all there, and has done well supported in 5 places, and covered in Tyvek, which sheds most water/snow, but is not as often condensing/moisture trap. I am in Vermont, lots of snow, ice, rain. But my wife keeps up with our varnish;)

[steve wiseman]

Thanks! Tyvek does sound interesting as a modern "canvas" since it does in fact breath where plastic doesn't. Good idea. Thanks!I've got it fairly level now with closed cell foam under the sawhorses just to prevent bruising the wood but that's all the babying I'm doing other than slapping a coat of varnish on which was also suggested by many of you.

Thanks! smile.gif
Steve

[emichaels]

One note on Tyvex, I believe it is intended for verticle use , ie on house walls. Doubt it will shed moisture on a horizontal surface. Also Tyvex starts breaking down after a 5-6 months due to UV. Just a thought.
I would make plywood squares to form cradles and cleat them to an leveled out 2x 6 or 8 and cover the top of the plywood square with plywood roof overhanging the diameter. You definitely don't want plastic to be within 2 inches or better of the wood. Condensation will hang on the underside of the platic and needs air circulation to dry off. But the idea of hanging it under the overhang from bicycle hooks is GREAT.

[ 11-08-2005, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: emichaels ]