pre-kote primer

[pipefitter]

Before I found this forum, I had read alot of other boat sites and info about painting. When I went to the website for the paint I was going to use the info on the primers was somewhat vague. Only referring to epoxy sealed wood boats as west system. I wasnt sure if they meant for use on only west epoxy products. I emailed the paint manufacturer with explicit details on the construction/materials used. Only thing i figure i failed to do was to put "EPOXY COATED" in caps like that. The rep replied quickly but told me to use prekote primer. Then I read on here not to so I email them back after i have coated the exterior strakes (3 per side) with it. The rep then says to use 404/414 primer :\ But also states it will adhere if it is well sanded and very clean which it is. I cleaned it with denatured alcohol with a rag as i was sanding it to remove the dust. The hull was sanded 2x and washed with amonia/warm water/scotchbrite pad prior to priming it. So now I'm thinking..great...i get to sand all this off because now I am paranoid it will fall off.Well...it isnt falling off. I have sanded it to nearly transparent and it wont come off anymore without sanding the epoxy off with it. So it is staying. If it falls off then so be it. I will redo it proper next time and i will get to use the proper stuff for the rest of the boat.Also,an auto body man told me that if primer isnt bonded you wont be able to sand it to a feathered edge so no probs with that either.Anyone gotten by with pre-kote over epoxy?
the epoxy has been on the boat for over a year and has been in it's sanded state for 6 months or more.

[Wild Wassa]

"Anyone gotten by with pre-kote over epoxy?"

No Mate, I don't see a need to put a primer over a perfect primer like epoxy. Epoxy is a first class primer if not the very best going around ... for use on timber.

I use CPES as my primer for normal epoxy ... only because I do up rotten old wrecks.

Primer means 'first'.

Warren.

[ 04-10-2005, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[pipefitter]

That was my thinking as well is why I used epoxy resin to seal my boat and as a primer/surfacer being it was perfectly compatible with the glue/fairing mud etc. But can you paint brightsides over raw epoxy? Also, I am after the best finish, hence all the long board sanding.Just on the exterior tho. I dont care if people think it is a plastic boat.Actually,I feel that wood/composite boats can have a better finish than a glass boat of the same class. My goal is to have the better finish than you can buy anywhere. The glass boats I work on are pretty iffy for what the damned things cost. If I was to spend 70k for a 23ft boat it should be flawless like a chevy corvette which costs about the same. I know I got all the blush off the boat. I even sanded/scrubbed the 3/8th reveals of the plank laps 2X. I just hope the pre-kote stays on because it is alot of work to sand it back off and I need to be fishing by this summer.I swore off fishing while building this thing for incentive to get it done. So then,if it falls off I wont mind sanding/repainting the sides (3 strakes per). As long as I get to cuss the rep that gave me the bum steer in the first place with my printless middle digit aimed accordingly.

[Steve Miller]

Brightsides sticks just fine to cured and sanded epoxy. No primer needed. I like to wet sand or wash the epoxy to be sure any blush is gone. Then dry it off with lint free rags (no solvents!) and paint after a few hours or overnight to be sure all the moisture is gone.

[landlocked sailor]

Pre-Kote has some fillers in it that help fill minor scratches and dings; it also snads out very nicely. Rick

[Wild Wassa]

Originally posted by pipefitter:
"... with my printless middle digit ..."

If you are doing any international travel at all ... you will need those finger prints.

The number of glasses I drop because of lack of finger prints, once the glass get the slightest condensation on it, is so silly ... I'm embarrassed to tell you.

This is the coolest paint job that I've seen as bright ... the NS14 belongs to a Forum member, 'Lord Bladeswords'. Two pack polyurethane sprayed on. The anti-skid is coloured poly spattered on and/or drizzled on. It is a shame my photo doesn't do the painter Mr Ron Thompson justice.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid152/p7c2dbfbfc15a596a3dbac90754f637ed/f5b04f7d.jpg

Good luck with your work ... a photo for a like mind.

Warren.

[ 04-11-2005, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[pipefitter]

Now that's a nice finish. I couldnt have covered that up either. Thats why i was careful to not use much mahogany up top. I did build my under gunwhale rod lockers of it tho and finished those bright. Thats all tho. Also,I appreciate all of you members replies. This forum is the one stop boat shop for info. I haven't found a topic not mentioned in here so I am glad I found it. I work on modern boats but prefer wood ones. Maybe that's why.Noone confusing that for a plastic boat now are they? smile.gif

Remember, we arent trying to make our boats look like plastic ones,they are trying to make theirs look lke ours.

And i got a chuckle out of the slipping glass scenario.Seems that has happened to me before here recently. Never even considered the lack of prints.
I like that splatter finished nonskid cause it also knocks the glare off. I was considering doing that to my interior decks. Looks Good when it is done right.
I do like the way the prekote sands.

[ 04-10-2005, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]