View Full Version : Frayed Mast Stay
jaredbeck
03-30-2007, 03:09 PM
Hello good people,
My 420 has one frayed mast stay. All of the hardware is still ok, I just need the cable replaced. The local shop has given me a "guesstimate" of 40-80 dollars to fix it.
What is a reasonable price to pay for this work?
Thanks for your help,
Jared
Ian McColgin
03-30-2007, 03:16 PM
Not sure what you mean by hardware. They are including at least some sort of terminal - eye, fork or perhaps depending on the turnbuckle a stud. You might save a little ordering some wire and staylocks to do it yourself.
Thorne
03-30-2007, 03:18 PM
I imagine that it depends on the materials and labor required. A second quote from another rigger would answer most of your questions.
For those of us who don't know 420 rigging, what is the length and diameter of the cable being replaced? What sort of fittings at either end, and how would they be attached to the new stainless steel cable?
If you want to DIY, perhaps you should consider making one yourself from Amsteel cordage? Are you racing this boat or just pleasure-sailing?
http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new...id=AMRAMSTL764 (http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=AMRAMSTL764)
jaredbeck
03-30-2007, 03:18 PM
i'll put up a picture tonight after work
rbgarr
03-30-2007, 04:02 PM
$40 dollars sounds about right, but if they give you an 'estimate' that swings by 100% like that I'd try somewhere else and nail them down on a firm price. The length of wire, fittings (eyes) on each end and labor to make it up should be easily and accurately calculated. I just got a 42' topping lift with eyes swaged on each end that's probably the same guage as yours for $60.
jaredbeck
03-30-2007, 06:13 PM
The estimate was so rough because the shop hasn't seen the stay yet.
Here's some pictures:
http://jaredbeck.com/images/woodenboatforum/mast_stay_1.jpg
http://jaredbeck.com/images/woodenboatforum/mast_stay_2.jpg
http://jaredbeck.com/images/woodenboatforum/mast_stay_3.jpg
http://jaredbeck.com/images/woodenboatforum/mast_stay_4.jpg
jaredbeck
03-30-2007, 06:22 PM
I still have the clevis pins, etc.
I just need a cable of that length, with eyes. How expensive can that be? :)
CGrant
03-30-2007, 07:45 PM
How are the two other stays?
Jay Greer
03-30-2007, 10:08 PM
I hate those bloody Nico Press fittings! You might consider swaged marine eyes in place of them. Better yet, you could do it your self and splice up a 7x7 stay.The spliced stay will bend and not fray. Just think of the extra skill you will aquire!
JG
jaredbeck
03-30-2007, 11:19 PM
How are the two other stays?
I think both are OK. Maybe I should take another look? :)
I hate those bloody Nico Press fittings! You might consider swaged marine eyes in place of them. Better yet, you could do it your self and splice up a 7x7 stay.The spliced stay will bend and not fray. Just think of the extra skill you will aquire!
JG
So 7x7 refers to a 7-strand wire, each strand having 7 threads? I am not sure how many strands my current rigging has.
Is the eye splice technique for 7 strands wire the same as for 3 strands wire? (http://www.animatedknots.com/splice/)
After splicing, how is the splice protected?
Jay Greer
03-30-2007, 11:52 PM
Your wire appears to be 1x19 with Nicro press sleeves. 7X7 wire is hand spiceable. Solid thimbles with a hole for the clevis pin are most desirable as the thimble will not collapse under load and change the tune of the rig. The spice can either be finished in the traditional marlin serving or with annealed stainless steel seizing wire.
JG
Todd Bradshaw
03-31-2007, 12:18 AM
If the specs are the same as those of what Vanguard now calls the "Club 420" (some sort of updated version of the original International 420) you can buy a new headstay for $42. Page #7 of their parts PDF, lower right). I suppose they could probably tell you whether their part would fit your boat.
http://www.theboathouse.biz/boat_vanguard_420.asp
parts PDF:
http://www.theboathouse.biz/pdf/420_retail.pdf
It's not a headstay it's a shroud. If the other one is anything like the condition of that, I'd replace them both. I think the Boathouse is closed for the season, I'd try APS (www.apsltd.com) I'd call. Here is the part http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d93000/e90671.asp
Tom Lathrop
03-31-2007, 08:42 AM
Looks likw 3/32" 1X19 wire to me. Don't need no stinkin rigger.
Get a Nicropress tool and do them yourself. Don't know why Jay hates Nicropress swages. They are not as pretty as the SS variety but they also don't have crevice corrosion problems and are easy to do at home. I have some that are 40 years old and still good as new.
Looks likw 3/32" 1X19 wire to me. Don't need no stinkin rigger.
Get a Nicropress tool and do them yourself. Don't know why Jay hates Nicropress swages. They are not as pretty as the SS variety but they also don't have crevice corrosion problems and are easy to do at home. I have some that are 40 years old and still good as new.
Close, it's 1/8th, Jared does not say where he's from, but some marine stores let you make your own swages, in fact Jackson's in Kittery won't do it themselves but insist you do it (got to love the insurance co's).
Les Schuldt
03-31-2007, 10:58 AM
Jared.
I vote for the nicopress tool.
Buy the tool, put a little anti-sieze on the threads (I use lanolin) and get some sleeves and new thimbles.
While you're at it, make 2 shrouds exactly the same length and a new headstay too. It'll probably only cost you an extra $20-30, but you won't have to worry about when the next stay is gonna pop.
Follow the directions in the package. Have the end of the wire flush with edge of the sleeve or SLIGHTLY sticking out. As you tighten the sleeve, it'll "pull" the wire into the sleeve. I might suggest you buy a few extra sleeves and waste a few short pieces of wire practicing. Use a box end wrench or ratchet. A cresent will wreck the bolts real quick.
It's easy to do, reasonably cheap, and you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Also kind cool when you want to make a safety wire for your outboard, trailer, baseball cap, etc.
-Les
jaredbeck
04-01-2007, 02:32 PM
This forum is so responsive and helpful! :)
I ended up buying 5m of 1/8 galvanized steel cable ($4), a "swagging" tool ($25) and some "ferules" ($4), and "thimbles" ($2). Making the new cable was more fun, much quicker, and less expensive than going to the boatyard.
I'm sure the professionals would have made a better cable, for example using stainless steel, but as long as the new one holds I will be happy.
Thanks again for your help!
Jared
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