Making Feathering Two Piece Oars

[Shalfleet]

I would like to make some oars that break into two to allow them to be both used as paddles and fit in the bottom of a small boat. I want to make oars that feather, with a squarish section in the oarlock, so a consistent angle between the blade and oarlock is required. I know that this may be asking too much but any ideas on metal fittings that would allow this are greatly appreciated.

[Ian McColgin]

Two part oars are a challenge to make lively, like a real oar should be. The joint perforce is out where the oar should be most flexable and the joint is a hard spot that incidentally adds weight.

If stowing is the only issue and if the problem is that the long sticks won't go under the thwarts, lay 'em down on top and have a bit of shock cord or something to keep 'em in place.

I truely don't understand why you want a square section in the lock. Perhaps you could explain a bit more.

A paddle and an oar have very different dynamics. Sounds to me like you're likely to make one unit that does both badly. But then, sometimes unlikely ideas work so if you really want to, astound us.

G'luck

[htom]

I suppose those bronze joints that the kayakers sometimes use in a double paddle could be used, but I don't think you'll like the resulting thing.

Paddle and oar are just too dissimular when you get close; different handle shapes, different shaft lengths and shapes, different blade sizes, angles, and shapes; as well as that a very long paddle is a bit over five feet, while a very short oar is a bit less than six feet. I could see how you could make oars were curved over their entire length, so that they'd fit along the side of a boat and be easier to store out of the way; those wouldn't need a joint, either.

[Shalfleet]

Ian,

I row quite a bit in racing shells and the oars have an almost square section in the oarlock, especially on one side, parallel with the blade. As the oarlock is also square, this flat section holds the blade at the correct angle when squared in the water, and when feathered parallel to the water's surface. I'm not explaining it well but it is more square than round in my view.

I have bought some bronze Alden oarlocks that are similar in design to the plastic Concept2 type that are used in racing boats, so my hope is to make some simple oars that fit.

See http://www.rowalden.com/rowalden/showprod.cfm?&DID=8&User_ID=72759&st=8572&st2=41886911&st3=-45449337&CATID=33&ObjectGroup_ID=198 for examples.

Thanks!

[JimConlin]

Concept II will sell the plastic sleeves which make a round shaft square. Also the buttons.

[WWheeler]

I have two-piece oars that use a metal sleeve. Male side uses a button that pops up when the oars are fitted together. However, it's round. Never seen square oars.

[Bruce Hooke]

In addition to the issues already mentioned, if you make your oars strong enough to be useable as oars then trying to paddle with them will be like trying to use a cement paddle, it will be so heavy.

[Ian McColgin]

A scull is really different. The oar pivots on what amounts to a thole pin and indeed the flat holds the blade angle. Given the leverage you're wrestling with and the consequences of catching a crab and the fact that it all happens in flat water and high (relative term) speed, it all makes sense. Also, the top of that part of the lock is not curved, and the flat is also helpful in keeping the oar in the lock during the stroke. The other horn is curved to keep the oar aboard in the return. The reason for pivoting in the power stroke against what amounts to a rod or thole pin is to gain a small bit of extra power.

There are variations on proper row boat oar locks, but they differ from locks on a scull especially in that the oar does not pivot in quite the same way. Some oar locks are exactly symetrical and some a bit asymetrical but the leading part of the lock is forward of actual pivot point into the gunnel.

The oarlock shape allows round oars that are more readily feathered in rougher condtions and may be shipped and unshipped easily.

I personally feel that circular oar locks are very bad as they are hard to ship with the captive oar. Oarlocks with the pin are even more silly.

All that said, I've known some scullers who much preferred the scull shape in lock and loom even in a boat. De gustibus and all that. What they'd not like, and you'd not either, is the dead oar feel you'll get with any kind of joint in the oar.

Also, the joint in a paddle takes very little strain whereas the shaft on an oar takes quite a bit of strain. It would be hard to make a shaft strong enough.

You don't mention the sort of boat you have in mind but I'm trying to imagine something that could be rowed or double paddled. Hard to visualize but perhaps a 6 hr???

G'luck

[Ian G Wright]

Plastimo make two part oars of pretty fair quality. I own a pair. Ask a local chandler, they should help.

IanW.