Adjusting Hand Planes

[BDann]

I am just getting started gathering the necessary tools for the boat building project, and I don't have a clue on how to properly set up the hand plane. It is a #5 by Groz. It seemed to be identical to the Bailey #5. Any help would be great.

Brian

[ssor]

First of all the blade ( here in after called the "iron") must be sharp enough to shave hair from your arm. Next the iron and chip breaker form the heart of the plane( The chip breaker is that peculiar looking piece with a large head screw in the middle of it and a hump at one end. The end with the hump needs to be set just a little bit away from the sharp edge of the iron. Now you have spent some time sharpening the iron so don't allow anything to damage the edge you so carefully sharpened. Tighten the screw with the large head and carefully lay the assembled iron and chipbreaker in the plane with the iron on the bottom. Next there is a piece that is quite substantial with a keyhole slot in it that also has a small lever at one end, this is slipped over the screw that protrudes through the iron-chipbreaker assembly and pushed towards the sharp edge of the iron, the small lever should be flipped up at this point, the screw is tightened gently and the lever is pressed down to complete the tightening process. The Next step is a bit more a matter of judgement, you need to turn the plane so the the sole or bottom of the plane is facing up, hold the plane at arms length with your arms bent and look for the edge of the blade protruding above the sole of the plane( the sole is the flat part that you put on the wood), There is a large brass wheel like nut on a threaded shaft under the blade assembly, turning this nut will cause the blade the retract or protrude through the slot in the sole of the plane. Adjust the blade until you can just barely see the blade when you hold the plane up to a light and you are looking along the flat of the sole. The sharp edge should be towards you. Next you put a piece of wood in your vise and slide the plane down the length of the piece.if the shaving seems to be too thick then turn the adjusting nut to retract the blade. perhaps only one turn. And try again, and again and look at the position of the blade when you hold the plane up to a light. When you are pleased with the shaving look at the blade again and try to remember how it looks. the next adjustment is made with a lever that extends under the iron and nearly to the upper end of the iron. This lever allows you to adjust the iron so the it cuts a shaving the same thickness on the right as on the left. When you look at the sole of the plane with the iron protruding thru the slot and you move the lever left and right first one corner of the blade and then the other corner will stick up too high ( my term is "stand Proud") The desired position is a uniform exposure of the blade, high enough to take a shaving and not so high as to sound like you are cracking the wood as it is cut. The shaving should be soft and pleasing to hold in the hand, light enough for the wind to blow them around and when you walk on them they hardly crunch. There are others on this forum that are more skilled and experienced than I but this will serve as a start.
Ross in Bel Air

[ 03-17-2005, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: ssor ]

[StevenBauer]

I bought a Groz #5 recently at Rockler. It seems pretty nice. After honing the blade I had to hone the end of the chipbreaker, too. It didn't really fit the blade and the shavings would slip between the two and clog the whole thing. So I just honed the chipbreakers front edge 'til it had a good fit to the top of the blade and now it works great. Did you get the Groz low angle block plane?

Steven

[Bayboat]

Also: After honing the edge of the chip breaker so it makes full contact with the iron, buff/polish the top of the curved part so the shavings will slide up it easily.

Check the flatness of the sole with a good straightedge. It will probably have some slight bumps and/or hollows, and it won't work well unless the sole is quite flat. Put a piece of wetordry abrasive paper, 320 or 400 grit, on a flat hard surface, e.g., a saw table. Sprinkle it with water and slide the plane on its sole over it. Inspect the bottom occasionally to see progress. It is most important to get it flat on other side of the throat.

There are any number of books and videos about how to adjust and use planes. Even a cheapy can be improved greatly by appropriate adjustment. Then when your pockets are a little deeper, go for Lie-Nielsen, Clifton or Veritas. You'll be amazed at the difference.

[ 03-18-2005, 12:58 AM: Message edited by: Bayboat ]

[Bob Smalser]

Whatever you do, don't buy anything that's already here free of charge.

Cian Perez has collected the clearest of the illustrated hand plane tuning, setup and restoration articles on the web found here:

Includes a few of mine.

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How _To/INDEX_How_To.htm (http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm)

[ 03-18-2005, 01:35 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bayboat]

That's a great contribution. Many thanks for the tip, Bob. Regards, Clint.

[ssor]

I just read your post/article on the conversion of a plane to 50 degree. Very well written and completely understandable. smile.gif

Ross in Bel Air

[BDann]

Thanks for the help guys. It's already working much better, but room for improvement. But at least I'm on the right track.

Brian

[landlocked sailor]

Great website Bob, thanks! Rick

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by ssor:
I just read your post/article on the conversion of a plane to 50 degree. The pictures are much better here:

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009153&p=

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009243&p=

Everything I do is posted here first, as our hosts don't delete old postings I use it as an archive.

[Donn]

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