More silly paint questions (repair imminent)

[Ronin NW]

So, after noting a few cracks in my caprail paint and kicking myself everytime I see them (when will Spring arrive in earnest?!), I was tawdling around the other day and found a soft spot in my caprail. After brief but energetic paint stripping, there's about 4 feet worth of caprail (and about 1 foot elsewhere, adjacent to a scarf) that I'll need to replace. This is okay. I can do this. This is why I have a caprail, right? So this doesn't happen in the rest of the boat (It shouldn't happen in the caprail either, but it's easily mendable). I surmise that one reason for this moisture mismatched bungs in the caprail (teak in oak), causing uneven swelling and subsequent cracking.

More confusing than the obvious repair are the lingering associated issues: The thwarts and caprail were once varnished, then painted over the varnish "so they could easily be brought back to varnish" by the former owner. Those blisters go all the way, and a solid chunck of varnish/primer/paint flakes off. Furthermore, as I chip away the paint in either direction, it looks like the top of the caprail (about 2" wide) is fairly wet as far as I've gone, and may continue to be wet, drying out on the sides and bottom edge.

I don't think I should expect to see any moisture in there. I'd love you to tell me I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'll be at least stripping all the paint that has moisture under it, letting it dry in the sun, and then sealing/painting. Should I varnish under it again? The existing topside paint is Interlux hi-build gloss white. Pretty stuff, but I'm unfamiliar with the polyurethane/enamel debate (I know, the search button up top...).

Right now I've got plastic taped over the exposed wood, as the rain has decided to return.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. And a halt to the rain if possible.

[John G]

Hey Scott - ok, well here's our situation: we are ripping Erica's bulwarks off completely at the moment. I'll send you an email and we can share notes - John

[pipefitter]

I dont know what your cap rail consists of or how it's fastened but I know one boatbuilder that never let a wooden boat needing repair that was wet wood dry out in the sun. If he was having to unfasten anything he claimed it would cause the wood to warp and check more. He let his dry in the shade. May not be an issue with your project but just something to consider.

[Jay Greer]

Not to sound pickie but the Cap Rail is, in truth,called a "Rail Cap". The wet wood can be dried by building a tent over the area and using a moisture absorbing desicant under same. Yes, it is better to dry the wood in the shade.

[Wild Wassa]

Following on, after you allow the area to dry well, CPES from Smith and Co. (or an equivalent material if there is one) can drag the last of the moisture out of the timber.

If the timber has been wet for a while rot will have been very interested in your boat as well, CPES will encase the rot.

Warren.

[ 03-26-2005, 07:21 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[paul oman]

Sounds like time to call in the out anti-freeze rot fix that has been covered over and over here. After that epoxy putty.....

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers