More "KINDLING" questions

[Lowell Bernhardt]

While Kindling awaits her new frames, I did thunk up some more questions. If some of you "enlightened" could lean some wisdom it would as always be greatly appreciated.

#1) while dismanteling the boat to get the frames out I have noticed no glue anywhere. (except for the tenon and groove joint at the stem and stern) I'm thinking that this may be why she's so (insert head scratching noise here.......) rickety. I'm going to replace and tighten all of the fastenings throughout the boat. I was wondering should I land the fastening surfaces in glue when I refasten? I would think that this would make her alot stiffer?

#2) Would type of cleaning solution would you advise to remove the years of "BARN DUST" from her? The whole boat is covered in a thick patina (if you're art savy) of tan.....(more head scratching) ... CRUD. I've thought about just using a scrubbrush and some dishsoap, and just not soaking the wood. Good idea? Bad idea?

That's all for now. Maybe I'll get the new frames cut out tommorrow or Sunday. Because you know that thanks to the new New Years Resolution laws, Friday night is offically BOAT NIGHT.

Thanks as always,
Lowell

[Paul Scheuer]

No glue in the FolBot. I think it's the "basket" concept, where the parts move slightly against each other to distribute the strain between several joints. The skin will provide a lot of cross bracing, and the action of the frames is just to spread the stringers out to the skin. I did use some epoxy in the cockpit structure. I'm still looking for the FolBot "How To" book.
I know it's here - somewhere.

I'd use some bleach/water to scrub whatever organics might have made the trip in from the barn.

[On Vacation]

You can apply 5200 in the screw holes that will take up slack in the holes but the key to minimizing the rikety part is that the pieces fit and the fasteners are tight. If you desire in the refastening, then pry the parts away from each other and force some glue into them and then screw it back together. This will eliminate some of the working. You have to take into consideration that there is not outer skin on the boat also as you are working on it. Try one size larger in screw siz if you have enough wood. Maybe the holes are dried out.

[Lowell Bernhardt]

Thanks guys. I just had another thought. Should I strip the existing paint and repaint eh whole thing once I've got the new stuff in place or just over coat the enitre boat?

Thanks again,
Lowell

[Paul Scheuer]

Thought you'd be canvasing by now. ;) The FolBot kit came with the frames and keel member varnished. I didn't do anything with the rest since it was all to be enclosed by the skin. The pic was the stretching process (at the stern). The vinyl had a "set" from being rolled up for several years. I steam-ironed it (from the fabric side). I'm not sure what the canoe types do with canvas.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid45/p5d25e6d5020adf9898546364ea715811/fcd3ac51.jpg

[Eric Sea Frog]

Lowell,

The painting choice depends also on what you'd want the boat to look like.
As far as I'm concerned I'd strip all paint, cover the woodwork with epoxy (lives a bit longer than varnish, but you can do a very sophisticated finish with, let's say, 10 thin layers of varnish tongue.gif -leisure time question there- or varnish on epoxy) and pick a clear, white or translucent kind of canvas to cover the boat, so that the woodwork would show through the canvas.
Another advantage is that you can find and fetch your things inside the hull without a lamp, thanks to the outside light.

Hope this helps

[Eric Sea Frog]

P.S.
It's safer to varnish or epoxy (or paint) all frames as you'll likely to take a lot of water in through your large, old-fashioned, post-war ;) coaming.
You could even consider shortening the coaming, depending on the expected use of the boat (single, two-seater, hunting or fishing bass-boat), and anyway buy some bilge hand pump, Guzzler or else.
The long type (like on bicycles) costs peanuts and you'll have room enough to operate it in your big coaming.

[Lowell Bernhardt]

Thanks Guys. I think I may strip the whole boat once I have the new frames and stringers in place. I scraped the areas where the new stem and stern frames meet the first bulkhead and the paint didn't put up much of a fight. Can you recommend a good stripper? I've looked at Citrastrip and it looks about the safest but I can't use it in the basement with the wood stove. KABOOM!!!! I saw some "miracle" stripper on TV awhile back and it didn't use any solvents but I can't remember the name.

I figure I'm gonna paint the boat structure the same as it was origionally, navy blue. As for the canvas it will be navy blue and white as it was origionally.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Paul ("figured you's be canvasing by now") but I'm still running a little behind, Friday didn't go as planned. I've just been stealing a few minutes here and there as time allows. I'm still waiting on my book from Barns and Noble before I start canvasing. But believe me I have plenty to do before then.

Thanks again,
Lowell

[scrubbs]

THE POST SUGGESTING 3-M 5200 AS A FLEXABLE ADHEASINVE WASNT BAD. aNY "GLUE MUST HAVE A CLEAN, DRY SURFACE TO BOND TO. yOU MIGHT TRY WASHING AND SCRUBBING PARTS WITH ISOPHROPYL ALCOHOL, AND SCRUBBING WITH SCOTHBRITE POADS TO CLEAN AND ABRAID THE SURFACES TO BE BONDED. aLCOHOL IS MUCH SAFER THAN CHEMICAL SOLVENTS. NO SMOKING!
i READ ABOUT A SKIN KAYAK DISCOVERED A WHILE BACK. INUIT, NATURALLY. EVERY SURFACE WHERE FRAME MET STRUCTURE THERE WAS A BONE INLAY THAT ALLOWED THE BOAT TO MOVE, AND NOT CHAIFE. A REPRODUCTION WAS BUILT FRON THE ANTIQUE ORIGINAL, AND THE DARN THING WOULD PLANE ON FLAT WATER! WHO SAID NATIVES WERE SAVAGES!

[Lowell Bernhardt]

Good to see a familiar face round these parts. I knew you'd come around.

Thanks,
Lowell :D