BayBuilt Deadrise Questions

[CyberRebel]

My brother has always loved the sort of deadrise workboats used here on the Chesapeake for crabbing. We came across an ad for one, and will probably be going to investigate it Thursday. It's 40' long, and has a 220hp Detroit diesel that has 400 hrs since a rebuild. The biggest problem I know of without having looked at the boat is that it's been out of the water for a year. The guy at the marina said "Well, I can see daylight through it..." :eek: He added though, there is no visible rot and as far as he knows, no broken frames. The most unusual aspect of this boat is the fore-and-aft planking on the bottom. Very atypical. According to Chappelle, that usually means the boat was initially built with more and stronger framing than is found with crossplanking. Also, if this boat is like most Chesapeake workboats, shes probably built almost entirely of Southern Yellow Pine... Loblolly I think, and fastened with galvanized boat nails. Anyway, when we go to look at her, what specifically should we check for that may not be readily apparent? Also, how bad does the planking sound to you, and how difficult will it be to get some modicum of watertightness out of it? I realize this isn't alot of information, but I'm curious to hear everyone's thoughts prior to seeing the boat. What say you forumers???

The boat in question can be seen at:
http://www.gatewaymarina.com/used/workboat40.html

[ 07-02-2002, 03:10 AM: Message edited by: CyberRebel ]

[paladin]

Srephen...these were built as cheap "throw away" boats so take a very good look at any thing you would potentially buy...more so than normal....

[nedL]

As Paladinsfo said, but I wouldn't let that discourage you, just be cautious. As you said With a longitudinal bottom rather than cross planked she is going to have to have more & better framing (which of course is in your favor). I wouldn't particularly be concerned about being able to see daylight through her bottom. If you want to really save money & be "Chesapeake traditional" you could probably take care of the bottom with a 5 gal. pail of plastic roofing cement ;) (actually quite seriously). Certainly check all inaccessable places & up underneath the decks for signs of discoloration & rot. I would also dig the surfacing putty out from on top of a number of the fastenings to see what shape the heads are in. If the heads have heavy rust on them then the whole nail may have problems. Also I would be concerned if there is significant rust streaking in the bilge. Good luck.

[ 07-02-2002, 07:52 AM: Message edited by: nedL ]

[Paul Scheuer]

I've always been intrigued by the statement "recently rebuilt" engine. It's a little like a car for sale with "many recent parts" What was the process that changed a repair/rehab project to a boat for sale ?

Interesting picture. The light seems to be doing something with the fairness of the hull, or is that the design ?

[CyberRebel]

Actually Paul, I think you are seeing the shape of the hull. The chine runs very high at the stem, and the bottom planking forward is nearly vertical running to nearly dead flat at the transom. It's an interesting design that carries much more deadrise forward than is typical.

According to the guy at the marina, the boat was owned by an old waterman who gave it to his son. The son never used the boat and, instead of just ignoring it and hoping it didn't sink at the dock for some reason, he had it hauled out. Apparently the son had no dreams of being a waterman. The marina told me they can probably put me in touch with the father for questions. Specifically, the bottom was leaking somewhere, although the marina couldn't say where the leak was. Before buying, I'd be sure to talk to the owner to determine the extent and location of the leak.

As for being built as a "throwaway"... I don't buy it. First, why would anyone in their right mind build a 40' boat as a throwaway? Not me, and I suspect not most on this forum. I've heard the same objections here to the old ChrisCrafts and yet some of those are still fetching $300,000 or more! Furthermore, while I don't know alot about these particular boats, I can only imagine they share details with other Bay workboats with which I am much more familiar. The Skipjacks for instance. They were built with massive timbers, extremely thick planking, and good galvanized iron fastenings. Many are still afloat after 100 years (with the proper care, of course.) Alot of the Baybuilts even have edge-fastenings in the topside planking. Remember, while the Skipjacks are something special now, they were just workboats to those that built and owned them. They most certainly were not built as "throwaways" and I fail to see why that would have changed in the power era. What exactly, in the estimation of the experts here delineates those boats that are to be thrown away from those that are built as keepers? I, for one, don't see the difference.

[ 07-02-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: CyberRebel ]

[On Vacation]

check this out.
http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=005066

[On Vacation]

The bay boats were built with avaliable lumber locally. If you look at the construction of them compared to most all framed wooden boats, you will find a very minimum amount of framing in them.

They have a very huge keel, 10x12, or 8x10, for example and a false keelson, that being between the chime and the keel to reinforce the cross planking of the bottom. Most go in open summer waters and shallow creeks and most operators accept the leaking around the chimes and lose fit seams in between the bottom planks.

MOst boats are built with a rough in deck and a water deflector at the edge of the decks at the outboard side. The fresh water on deck from rain and wash downs creates more rot in the chimes and around the big keel sides and makes for a maintainance headache in older boats.

Fish hard and put up wet. Yes the expression of throw away boats fits most, but nothing that can't be worked around if you are willing to do a little work yourself. Make sure you have some woodworking experience. If not you will get so much bull that you will become totally disgusted with your deal.

[Pelican]

CyberRebel, if you want it go for it but remember, "Ya gotta love it". It's a lot of work but very satisfying. You'll get real tired but it's a good kind of tired as you watch the progress you are making. And to prove it can be done here are some pictures (I have posted these before but hey, I'm a proud poppa). The first is the way I found herDolores #1 (http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/4/1/9/16972419.jpg) , the second when we put her in the water 20 days later (me and one other fat guy did 98% of the work) Dolores #2 (http://images.honesty.com/imagedata/4/2/0/16972420.jpg) , the third is at the Wooden Boat Shot in Biloxi, Miss last year Dolores #3 (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/2393946/990840367308_Mvc_005s.jpg) ,the fourth is when we repainted the bottom prior to this years Biloxi show Dolores #4 (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/2393946/1020301307460_Dolores.JPG) , and the last was taken by a friend as we returning home from this years Biloxi show. Doesn't look it in the pix but was running 4-5 foot seas in the Mississippi Sound. Dolores #5 (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/2393946/1025292082689_Delores_in_chop_7.jpg)

As I said before, GO FOR IT, but only if you can commit to loving it. There is no reason you can't develop a relationship with this boat as I have with DOLORES CATHERINE.

Anyway I can help just holler,
Pel (Pel's portrait) (http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/2393946/1020711044952_pelican.JPG)

[CptnDon]

CyberRebel,
If you guys are serious about the boat you have to go see it in person. If you are unsure of your ability to judge the condition of the boat, hire a surveyor. Make sure they are experienced with WOOD boats. Make sure some of the fasteners are pulled and inspected. Wasted nails can ruin your day. Maybe you can strike a deal w/the owner to hang the boat in slings over a weekend to see if she'll swell up.
Good luck.

Isn't it funny when fore and aft planking is an oddity!