View Full Version : Cutting chine logs for LY Skiff

02-12-2007, 11:07 AM
So I am two months in and do about an hour or two of work per week and just yesterday got the sides onto the stem for the 16 foot Lumberyard Skiff I am building following Walter's plans. I am puzzled how alone I am going to be able to cut a 20 degree angle the whole length of 16 feet of a 2x6, then how I am going to bend these pieces into place(clamps I guess). Now I have heard these pieces can be planed to 1 1/4 so that they can be better bent? I have cut pieces on my table saw up to 6 feet long but don't see how I am going to guide a 14-16 foot piece without it wobbling all over the place. Also is this 20 degree cut really 20 degrees or is a lot of planing needed after the chine is placed so that the bottom panels mate the chine? Thanks for any pointers.

If anyone wants pictures of the process I am documenting all of it and have a large folder of what I have done so far and can send them along.

02-12-2007, 12:02 PM
Bevelling, placing and fastening the chine logs is a tricky part of building a flat bottom boat that is often glossed over. I just bevelled the top side of the logs with a friend on the table saw and planed off the bottom after the side planking is fastened to it. Just be sure your fastenings don't land in the area that will be planed off.

Mike Keers
02-12-2007, 12:45 PM
To address the question of the long sticks 'wobbling all over the place' you need some type of supports--roller stands, even saw horses to support the sticks on the infeed and outfeed. A featherboard or two might help as well, especially to keep the stick pushed against the rip fence.

02-12-2007, 02:34 PM
Although featherboards would be needed,when working alone and without all the gadgets,I prefer the circular saw,cut large on the lines and fine tune with a plane if need be. I use clamps(vice grip r6's) clamped to the circular saw base as a run off protector. If you are using construction quality lumber and are set on using the table saw,you might have the piece trued on a surface planer and jointer first if you can, if you don't have a straight/flat stick to start with.

Gordon Bartlett
02-12-2007, 04:33 PM
Last week I was doubling some joists above my basement workshop to stiffen the floor for a master bath I'm building upstairs. The new 2 X 10's were about 1/8" wider than the originals so I needed to trim a little off the width to fit them in. The joists were 14 feet long. I ripped them on the table saw a little more than half their length then turned the saw off. Then I flipped them around and finished the cut from the other end. I was surprised how easily the whole thing went and how well I was able to keep them against the fence. No featherboards, no roller supports; nothing. But I really like Pipefitter's idea of using a skilsaw. Let us know how it goes.

02-13-2007, 06:59 PM
I hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew..lol!

02-13-2007, 07:35 PM
The last couple days I have fixed the sides to the stem which was sort of a tough job to do on my own. Then today I cut and placed the 6'6" beam and made a windlass out a notched 2x4 and started bringing the sides in the back towards the eventual placement of the transom. I'll probably try to get a friend to help me with that.
Then went to the lumber yard and saw how much a decent 2x6 for a chine will cost and am now planning on going with 1x4 chines-much easier to cut and bend. One guy I know uses pine but I thought fir was a better choice for a wood that is going to be bent and under stress. The fir is a little softer in terms of getting screws in compared to pine but I worry a 1x4 pine piece would snap? Any thoughts?