View Full Version : Spacing of Scarphs

01-23-2007, 06:13 PM
Hi Guys,
I'm looking for some guidance on a few planks I'm about to replace on an 18ft clinker sailer. Three planks are damaged about 2 ft from the transom, the middle plank of the 3 is holed and the planks above and below have a piece broken out of them. The Sheer strake above is scarphed about 6 ft from the transom. My question is, How would you guys recommend I layout the scarphs for replacing the 3 damaged boards taking into account the scarph in the sheer strake?
Many thanks.

P.S. Is it possible to post pics to this forum? If so how.

01-23-2007, 10:19 PM
Yes it's possible to post pictures, just do a search, there's lot's of advice on it. You have to have an account with flikr or imagestation or similar.

As fpr the repair, how had would it be to replace the whole plank?

01-24-2007, 01:40 AM
First - don't attach photos. Most web forums don't allow it, and space
limitations are the main reason why.

Second - Instead of attaching them to a thread, post the pics on the web
somewhere. You have a free website area with any paid ISP's email account,
or use www.picturetrail.com or other free hosting service. Once posted on
the web, right-click the image to copy the URL (web address). Always test
first by pasting the image URL into the window of a web browser and see if
the image displays.

Third - once posted on the web, try this procedure while logged in to this

1. Click the "User CP" link in the browser window in the top left of the
menu bar.
2. Click the "Edit Options" link about 1/4 of the way down the left column.
3. In the "Misc Options" at the bottom of the next page, select "Enhanced
Interface" from the pulldown list.
4. Once this interface has been selected, in any "Reply" window you can
click the "insert photo" icon --> a little yellow square icon with the stamp
in the upper right corner, the mountains in the lower center.
5. Once the little dialog box titled "Please enter the URL of your image"
comes up, paste the URL of the photo in the field.

If unsure of the procedure, test first by pasting the image URL into the
window of a web browser.

01-24-2007, 02:30 PM
Hi Guys,
thanks for the replies, and here's the picture.


Replacing the whole plank is a lot of work, there is a nail and rove every 2 inches so at a rough calculation thats 216 nails to remove!
So guys, any suggestions on spacing the scarphs? I was told that there is a formula that can be used to lay them out.
Keep well,

01-24-2007, 03:50 PM
With a traditionally bedded and fastened scarph there is a proper spacing distance, usually a minimum of several frames or stations separating the joints. Using an epoxied joint this is not as critical. I have seen hood ends redone all in a row only back to the first frame! Not exactly what I would do but it worked and is still working and that was done fifteen years ago.
I would make the replacement pieces long enough to spring a fair curve and use epoxy scarphs at about 10/12: 1

01-24-2007, 04:36 PM
Something that was pointed out in another thread on scarphs is that the external slanted edge of the scarph (insert proper nautical term here) should point towards the stern, not the bow.

01-24-2007, 05:05 PM

01-24-2007, 05:08 PM
I'd think that if the scarphs were well fitted and glued with epoxy, there's not a need to separate them widely. A plank-width or two would be OK. It's hard to see in the photo, but if the damage to the first and third of the three damaged planks is minor, a small scarphed dutchman might do the job.

01-24-2007, 05:44 PM
Thanks for the replies,
Firstly the external piece in the scarph must point towards the stern to stop water flow from getting into the joint and opening it.
Secondly, am I right in saying a "dutchman" is a small repair that is not the full width of the plank?

01-24-2007, 05:58 PM
The rule for the scarph facing fore or aft doesn't really apply to epoxy "scarphs" [I've been spelling it scarf forever"] or any other glued scarf because if the glue fails it'll leak whichever direction the scarph is oriented.
In a lapstrake hull like that, I think a long dutchman is the way to go, it would be a bitch to try and cut all those rivets between planks for any length.