View Full Version : Bungs
01-19-2007, 08:25 AM
One of my winter projects on the old Beetle Cat (see Beetle Cat Restoration thread) is to get the gaff ship shape. One jaw is broken so I might as well replace them both. More on the jaws later.
I started to remove the gaff sail track and just about every other screw broke off in it's hole.
I'm not sure if I should drill out the remaining screws embedded in the spar or just bung the hole and leave the remaining screw piece in place.
Any information on how to properly bung a hole, i.e what kind of wood and what type of glue to use would be much appreciated. It appears I'm going to be doing a lot of bunging on this project as just about every screw breaks at the end of the threads.
01-19-2007, 09:03 AM
Our kind hosts have a great book on this, covers bungs (and fastener issues) very well -
01-19-2007, 09:03 AM
I had a similar problem with long #6 screws holding the sail track on Torna's mizzen boom. I went the drill out route and I think I was pretty successful.
Not wanting to have them break again, I upgraded to #8 screws. That meant that I was drilling out the old ones with the size appropriate for #8 - that helped me still get all the old screw gunk out when I drifted off center. But the heads for the new #8 screws were larger diameter than the old #6s and they would not seat fully in the slot in the sail track. So I turned the head diameter down a trifle on a lathe. When done though I feel good about the job - better than original.
01-19-2007, 11:39 AM
It seems as if when you replace the track, you wouldn't want old screws in line with the existing holes. Might shift the track an inch to get into fresh wood for all the fastenings. As for the bungs, lining up the grain is good if finished bright, but setting them at 90 degrees to the grain is better for strength--the swelling locks them in better. I do this below the waterline, for example.
wouldn't it have been easier to counter sink the sail track for #8 :)
01-19-2007, 12:19 PM
The old #6 screws were round head and the head dia just fit within the groove in the track. The heads on #8s, whether flat or round, were wider than the groove. So I decided to continue with the round heads and just turn 'em down a trifle. Ended up looking like Fillister heads - a look I like.
01-19-2007, 04:41 PM
" but setting them at 90 degrees to the grain is better for strength--the swelling locks them in better. I do this below the waterline, for example."
WRONG. maybe in fresh water, but not a good practice to get into ....splits planks! over time...
01-19-2007, 05:26 PM
when removing screws make sure that the surraunding wood is not wet! wet wood holds the screws so tight its no wonder they are breaking. if that is the problem that is.
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