Painting hinges - suggestions

[Karl A. Hilbert]

I have some old wrought iron hinges stripped to bare metal and ready for primer. Does anyone have any suggestions about the best way to get a clean look without the gunk where the barrels meet? These will be sprayed. The pins are permanent, they can not be removed.

[S.V. Airlie]

Leave them be...They are moving parts.. To paint them or anything else for that matter will cause more trouble than you want.
If you are serious, use stove paint but leave the barrels alone....coat the barrels with a light oil.... The paint will only chip and bubble.

[Karl A. Hilbert]

Yes, I am serious. These hinges will need to match other hardware such as handles and latches. I might try to score the paint with a razor blade after it ahs dried a little.

[S.V. Airlie]

Karl.. that approach may work... I have always had trouble with iron... especially on a boat.. Scoring the paint may work but I guess it depends, in part, what you want to match it to...
I was not ridiculing you... Just posting my experiences with iron... especially in a marine environment.
I hope someone posts with ideas...

[Karl A. Hilbert]

This is salvaged hardware that will be used for a display case that will house bugeye and skipjack models. My question is about achieving a clean finish, I have no concerns about corrosion.

[S.V. Airlie]

okay.. you have explained more than in your original post... I had the feeling you were gonna use these hinges on a boat...I was coming from that direction.... hinges on a boat...
Good luck...

[Paul Girouard]

Contact a metal fabrication shop in your local area. You could have them powder coated , or some such. A metal fab shop would know what was best for the metal , something baked on in a controlled environment would be best.

Cost could be your main issue.

G/L

[Thorne]

Failing all that, I'd use something made for metal like the Rustoleum primers and paints -- they make marine grade ones if you want to go that route.

[ssor]

I would blue them with this stuff.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1072&title=OXPHO-BLUE&s=3869

[Vince Brennan]

Definitely Poly Powder Coat and bake... scoring the paint will (if the hinges are used) only lead to eventual chipping due to expansion and contraction and the parts moving past one another.... the poly powder is MUCH the better alternative for long-tern appearance as it gives a level, even coat and a VERY tough surface...for hinges, an especial benefit.

my 2¢

[Wild Wassa]

With simple jobs like this, automotive paint from a spray can is another option. You can do dozens of hinges for $20-25.

Firstly, spray a light coat of the appropriate etch primer. This is not a filler coat that many think it is. Keep etch priming light and thin.

Then a filler undercoat two quick sprays, again not sprayed on as a build coat, again kept thin and then a few light top coats of the appropriate colour or metallic look. If you want to be fancy, finish with a clear coat. Clear coats also improve waterproofing of the paint and add a bit to the overall hardness.

Spray the hinge/s and then then a minute or two after spraying each coat, flex the hinge to break the skin (if you even have a need to) ... you will not even know that you did it, if you do you're spraying too thickly.

From go to finished top coats will not even take half an hour for half a dozen hinges. Allow five minutes between coats, you will get a good chemical bond. No need to sand if spraying in one session although sanding between coats will enhance the overall finish.

If you are uneven or finding blemishes after the filler coat on a hinge or two, wait an hour and give a light sand with #400, spray a light filler coat again, before proceeding to colour coats.

Do you get Krylon spray cans in the US? This is good paint. Alsa Corporation from the US make outstanding metal looking paints, but any automotive paint is good enough.

A job like this is too easy with automotive paint sprayed from a can.

Warren.

[UpScope]

Here is a link to metal finishing on the PracticalMachinist BBS.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/1/11875.html#000024

Lots of opinons and options. They work with iron all the time.

Hope this helps

[Karl A. Hilbert]

I went with Warren and Thorne. Microcoats in quick succession with Rustoleum Industrial gave a solid finish and didn't fill the hammer marks. I wiggled the hinges in between coat and didn't get the build up I was fearing.
Thanks All