seams and splines or not

[werner]

would like to have opinions on the following problem,
35ft sailboat carvel build mahogany 14mm on steamed frames, rivet and rove fastened, closed seamed (tight no caulking).the former owner had the marvelous idea to smear epoxy all over the inside (ran between the seams in most places).Wood is dry, planks didn't open up much.

Received the advice to put in splines glued on one plank only is this a known method?: has anyone done this before or knows how?I do not think putting in splines glued solid on both sides is a good idea,or is it? Perhaps it is only usefull to spline below the waterline?
regards ,
werner

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid147/pc3e901d69dd4a0d42de12d7b7a4711f8/f6357d6b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid147/p33e5339b929426c154d80310d8c3635b/f6357d66.jpg

[david clack]

There is a 101 year old boat in our yard that had splines fitted below the waterline about 30 years ago. The owner is happy and says that there have been no problems with planks swelling and putting strain on the structure of the yacht.The yacht comes out of the water each winter and is kept under cover. The planking is pitch pine so probably relatively stable.
Good luck with it!
Regards David

[werner]

thanks for the advice David.
The reason why I posted this question was that i got some doubts about splining when one reads the horror stories about splitting planks cracking frames...
I do not know if my reasoning "holds water" :
since this boat is closed seamed,as far as I know originaly the planks where fastened "dry" and without any seamprovision for swelling.+ mahogany doesn't swell so much.+the tightening of the planks is needed to get the boat stiff and watertight.I doubt if this building method was only meant for "dry sailing" boats.

if the splines are glued in when the planks are dry, no seams(splitting) will show if the boat later is hauled out for winter?
I tought to have a sollution using splines just glued on one side ,so to speak just restoring the planks edge; tried but didn't find anything about this method and seeing the overwhelming responses on my message...perhaps not a good idea to try it.
regards
werner

[Stan Derelian]

Check the archives here. I believe this subject has been discussed at length before. There is a definite procedure to be followed when splining, and my understanding is that once done, the boat is best off staying in the water.

Also, a wood for splines softer than the planking is necessary.

[Bob Cleek]

What you don't say is WHY you want to do it? The pictures look okay. What is the problem? There is really NO reason to spline any hull unless it is to repair a problem. I would never spline a hull unless I wanted to repair a bad seam in a caulked hull. A close seamed boat should never leak because it should always take up when wet. If it starts leaking, look to frames and floors as the problem first. And always, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[werner]

From the pictures it looks like there is epoxy in every seam, but the problem is the epoxy has run between the seams but not everywhere and it is impossible to clean the epoxy from between.Frames are good but also partialy glued to the planks.
I wonder what will happen if she takes up.
Filling, the still in places open, seams with epoxy isn't perhaps a good idea either, or is it?
like you say Bob I shouldn't spline and I rather wouldn't but i think can't leave those gaps in the seams either.

[sdowney717]

So the epoxy might prevent the seams from closing up and then the boat will leak.
SO, coat the hull with 2 coats of sanitred permaflex a liquid polyurethane sealer
www.sanitred.com (http://www.sanitred.com)
100% waterproof!
You will not need to use any bottom paint either! The sanitred permaflex rejects marine growth.
It is also flexible and tough like a rubber sheet.
It sticks to bare wood.
It costs 75$ per gallon and cover 240 sq feet.
I have been using it and many people in the yard are impressed with it. It is also a good adhesive.