imported_Spissgatter W-9
04-18-2003, 10:24 PM
Ok, I've read the books. Now I would like to hear from those who have done it. I want to install a traditional teak planked sole.
Background: Deep/narrow bildge; laminated oak frames on about 8" centers planked with 5/4 vg doug fir. Sole beams of 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" clear vg oak start just forward of the motor mounts and then on every third frame (so sole beams are about 24" on centers). Two carlins (same material & dimension)run fore an aft 10" appart (each 5" off center). I wanted a nice sized access door to take advantage of the bildge space. The width of the sole runs from about 18" to 24".
Questions: If I use 5/8" x 2" teak planks with a 3/8"x 1/2" holly (maybe maple)strip press fit into the rabbit, will I need a subfloor? If so, what thickness plywood? With the exception of the access doors, should the subflooring be permanently attached (epoxy)for strength?
Look forward to hearing from you. Well maybe not all of you.
Background: Deep/narrow bildge; laminated oak frames on about 8" centers planked with 5/4 vg doug fir. Sole beams of 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" clear vg oak start just forward of the motor mounts and then on every third frame (so sole beams are about 24" on centers). Two carlins (same material & dimension)run fore an aft 10" appart (each 5" off center). I wanted a nice sized access door to take advantage of the bildge space. The width of the sole runs from about 18" to 24".
Questions: If I use 5/8" x 2" teak planks with a 3/8"x 1/2" holly (maybe maple)strip press fit into the rabbit, will I need a subfloor? If so, what thickness plywood? With the exception of the access doors, should the subflooring be permanently attached (epoxy)for strength?
Look forward to hearing from you. Well maybe not all of you.