Kirby Paint/ Cpes

[Greg H]

Any problems?

Kirby's recomended Valspar marine undercoat over the cpes, which I did. Nastiest stuff I've used sofar for brush marks and all ;) Anyway, I've wet sanded it smooth (removing most of the undercoat) and am in the process of filling dings now that I can see them.

Should I next thin the undercoat and cover everything again?
or
Skip that and go directly to paint and figure on three coats or more?
Thanks
smile.gif

[ 10-28-2003, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: Greg H ]

[landlocked sailor]

Probably be okay with two coats of Kirby's now. For future reference I have used an Interlux product called "Brightside Primer Prokote". Jamestown has it. It is a relabeling of their old primer that Walt Simmonds recommends. In is a nice oil based primer that builds well and sands out very smooth. I tried the Valspar stuff too and hated it. Is that the same stuff that needs a vinyl solvent? I wonder why George didn't recommend his own primer. I have tried that too but like the Interlux better.

[Greg H]

Yep, vinyl solvent, (whatever that is) and it gets tacky by the time you get the brush to the can and back.
I'm not sure who I talked to up there, but they didn't seem to have heard of cpes (or maybe it was an acent thing). If I can go on to color it would be great, I don't want to see that can of valspar again if I can help it. :D

[ 10-29-2003, 08:28 AM: Message edited by: Greg H ]

[Greg H]

Bump ;)

[Keith Wilson]

Kirby directly over CPES works fine in my experience. I'll let you know in a couple more years. Otherwise, Kirby himself suggested just using the same paint for primer, thinned way down. That seems to work fine too.

And yeah, I know what you mean about the accent. Get yourself a translator if you ever call Dynamite Payson in Maine.

[ 10-29-2003, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

[Venchka]

Oh good, Kirby Paint talk and I didn't say it first.

OK, when I talked to George and asked about promer, he asked if I using that "C...E...S...CPES stuff? My paint lays down real nice over that stuff. You don't need primer." Before painting commenced, John Anderson had a long talk with George at the WoodenBoat Show. The condensed version is that John thinned the Kirby Paint, not sure with what but George knows. Final tally-1 coat of C.P.E.S inside & out, 3 coats of Kirby #33 inside and 4 coats outside. Finest kind, don't you know.

KIRBY PAINT JOB (http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290472089)

[Greg H]

Ayah, timing is everything smile.gif
And to think I used to live up there.

That sounds good, looks like it's time for some color, soon as I get all the imperfections smoothed over.

[Cal]

I'm working on a 17 ft garvey this time, and used System Three two part marine primer in light grey color. Very pleased with this as it sands well at a day or so, tougher than toenails at a week out. For paint you might look at Benjamin Moores Industrial two part M36-39 HIgh build Gloss. This is a polyamide epoxy with low odor, and is salt or fresh water immersable, mould resistant too.
I'm not quite ready to paint, another week or so, but I have researched this paint stuff for a while. They also have a water bourne M43-44, but The water immersion barrier was what really sold me, and about a thousand colors to get confused over.
Let me know if this looks like a good idea for you too, thanks, Cal.

[Mr.O]

After looking at the Jamestown site and their paint listings; I found the following: Prekote Primer white for use above waterline only. Catalog # 4279 Q Would this be the same material you used "Landlocked sailer" ? It doesn't sound like an enamel either. What's up??

[landlocked sailor]

Yes, that is the stuff. It is not an enamel, it's a primer for bare surfaces, wood or FG. I have used it on five boats, both with old label & new. Rick