View Full Version : Lofting Gartside Design number 102 - Rossel article
B. Parkes
11-02-2005, 12:02 PM
In Greg Rossel's lofting article in WB187, he seems to be advocating drawing all the frames on one sheet of the lofting, rather than (I assume) drawing the entire profile and placing the framemold at each appropriate station.
Is my interpretation correct?
Should only half the frame be lofted and the stock for the mold be flipped over on the centerline? He shows a photo of what appears to be a complete frame mold being laid against the lofting.
Lastly, what material is the lofting being drawn on? Is it plywood or particle board, painted with primer?
I am about to start lofting Paul Gartside's design number 102, which is 27 feet long, but should cover over 4.5 feet from the top to the bottom of the lofting. I'm going to try lofting on 5 foot wide sheets of half inch particle board, painted white. I also intend to complete a half-model before starting construction. wparkes@state.pa.us
Stephen Hutchins
11-02-2005, 03:12 PM
I wonder if that was the Gartside double-ender that French & Webb built. Might be worth a call. Maybee they could sell you the molds if they still have them.
www.frenchwebb.com/ (http://www.frenchwebb.com/)
[ 11-02-2005, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: Stephen Hutchins ]
B. Parkes
11-02-2005, 03:15 PM
Yes, it's a double ender. She's 27'with a jib headed sloop rig not the smaller double ender canoe-yawl type.
I don't think I know the people you're referring to.
Stephen Hutchins
11-02-2005, 03:17 PM
Check my edited previous for web site. I just looked up that design on Paul's site. He refers to it as a cruising canoe. I wonder if "double ender" is a generic term for all boats pointy on both ends or is there a classification? Probably doesn't matter, but out of habbit I've been refering to the fatter ones as double enders and the more narrow ones as canoe yawls.
[ 11-02-2005, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: Stephen Hutchins ]
B. Parkes
11-02-2005, 03:20 PM
Thanks...but that's not her.
B. Parkes
11-02-2005, 06:38 PM
If there's one thing I've noticed, it's that maritime terminology is applied pretty loosely. I'd call her a "double-ender" and leave the term "canoe" to boats that hold their beam pretty uniformly to the ends, like my Internatioal 10 square meter canoe or what you paddled at scout camp. A canoe-yawl should have two masts without respect to if they are fore or aft of the rudder post. A double ender simply doesn't have a transom at the stern. That's my spin on it, but I'm sure others have a different view.
Dave Gray
11-02-2005, 06:57 PM
That's a pretty boat. What can you tell us about her? It seems evident she is outside ballasted but there isn't anything showing her below water profile. What type of engine - inboard I would imagine?
Should only half the frame be lofted and the stock for the mold be flipped over on the centerline? Yes, normally you loft half the station mould and make a copy for the other half. Cuts down on the work and keeps the sides symetrical.
B. Parkes
11-03-2005, 08:06 AM
The boat is a narrow and light design (~3300 lbs.) with small accomodations if you consider the length. It is intended for a small inboard engine and has a fin keel made of steel plate and ballast bolted to the bottom of the fin in the form resembling a bulb.
My intention in selecting the design was to find a design of less than 4000 lbs. I didn't take length into consideration on the premise that displacement is the truest measure of the size of a boat and my ability to complete her satisfactorily. AT 27 feet, the design is fairly long for her displacement and intended to be built in strip planking with two veneers of cedar over it. I'm just starting the lofting now, and am discovering that it's hard to find 27' in a straight line in my house. Looks like I'll loft on the back porch. I also intend to build a model to be sure I'm completely prepared before I start cutting serious lumber.
And you'll probably need a little more than 27 feet since a batten will make a fairer curve if it extends a couple feet past the curve it's describing.
emichaels
11-03-2005, 11:47 AM
When I took the lofting class with GR teaching at WBS we lofted a catspaw. I think we used 1/2" ply painted white with a flat interior paint. GR had already prepared the lofting boards so we did not have to. In my lofting of the dark harbor 12-1/2 I only loft one side of a symetrical element. Then flip it about the center line to get the full mold. Theoretically you will never draw the mirror image exactly the same. Unless you use a computer.
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