Bosch or other bench top table saws

[Clinton B Chase]

I will likely not be able to even fit a contractor saw in my new shop, but I have heard the newer bench tops, in particular the Bosch, is just as accurate and powerful. Anyone own one for boatbuilding or general construction? Do you like it?

Cheers,
Clint

[Paul Girouard]

I've got two buddies how have Dewalt's , 10" IIRC . Good saws , use thin kerf blades , rack in pinion fence is accurate.

Now it's not a cabinet shop saw , but I'd say its better than the low end "contractor's" type saws Sears and the big box dudes sell.

I pack around a 8" Makita , ten years or so old . Again a good saw for a job site , limited in a lot of ways from a big saw , but hey big saw can't be packed around / inside / upstairs etc .

FFW or FHB might have a resent test , you could do a google search on their site.

[Lew Barrett]

I have a Powermatic 66 and a Ridgid portable. There's no comparing power between the two, but the Ridgid is capable of excellent work and I like it a great deal; very handy to have a portable saw, indespensable for me in fact. The Powermatic is excellent as my shop saw (and a relatively recent acquisition, long story short; it was a gift) whereas I've had the Ridgid for about four years and in fact have used it more all told (though a lot less since I got the PM). Can't say enough good about it on a relative basis; excellent fence, smooth running, well set up from the factory just a good basic small saw. I think it's better than the old style Bosch, but the new Bosch with the improved stand is probably its equal. Personally I prefer the Ridgid fence over the Bosch's so don't pass it by as you shop just because it's only available at Home Depot. Those two, the bosch and the Ridgid, seem to me to be the top choices in this class.
Like Paul, I'd recommend a thinner blade on any lower powered saw for somewhat easier cutting. Whatever you select between these saws I think you'll be pleased at how few limitations they'll put on your work.
I wouldn't say either of them are the equal of a good cabinet saw in a number of respects, including cutting sheet goods, power, smoothness (you can balance a nickle on end and turn the PM on, really) or in terms of dust collection. Also I find it a bit easier to burn wood on the smaller saws, but that can be avoided with good technique and careful fence adjustment. I think you'll be happy with your new saw whatever you get.

[Varna]

What Paul and Lew have said already. I have similar saws- a massive Delta that will run a 12" and all that weight/mass dampens out all vibrations with high quality blades which gives edge cuts with very little noticeable mill mark. My old portable job site Makita runs a little 8.25" and leaves alot of mark even with a fine tooth carbide. I've wondered if these small saws will benifit from a good Forrest blade and the dampners they sell. I could have used that fine to build the small boats I have done. I keep in mind that 100 years ago ANY of theses small saws would have been deluxe in the day, and you can build your boat fine without big shop tools. I'd say my 14"x12" 1HP Delta bandsaw is more valueable in the boatshop- unless you have many miles of ripping to do.

[George Ray]

Had it for 3 years of hobby use, no problems.
I do not have the cool rolling stand but wish I did. The stand that came with mine is folds nicely but has no wheels/handles.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B00067IX1A.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V38502094_.jpg

There are other good saws out there but I have stopped looking for time being.

[Lew Barrett]

I've wondered if these small saws will benifit from a good Forrest blade and the dampners they sell..

Any of these saws will benefit from a good blade, but I think the thin kerf makes sense because compared to a bigger saw, they're limited. I use a regular kerf blade in the PM and it benefits from the extra mass, I think. I suspect Paul does the same with his Griz. Anyway, it doesn't matter because it rips through whatever you put in it's path.
I used the Ridgid today to rip stock for trim in the building we're renovating, and was reminded how much less power it has than a bigger saw. It's a good jobsite saw, as I'm sure the Bosch and the others are, but as soon as you move up to a bigger machine things change. The little saws make perfect sense if that's what you have space and budget for but there is a distinct difference.

[Tylerdurden]

I have a twenty year old 10" portable for ripping that sure needs replacing. I am looking for a bandsaw first though, to me it makes more sense. Doing cold molding I find I do most of my work with a circular saw so I have been thinking of a panel setup before a table saw.

[Paul Girouard]

Any of these saws will benefit from a good blade, but I think the thin kerf makes sense because compared to a bigger saw, they're limited. I use a regular kerf blade in the PM and it benefits from the extra mass, I think. I suspect Paul does the same with his Griz.

Lew I have a few old regular blades but most times I run Freud thin kerf blades. They cut so much better , ya the saw can push the reg. blade but I'm lazy , I like the stock to go thru like butter and a hot knife.

I do generally have a blade stablizer on as well , if I don't need the height. As most guys may know the blade stablizers do reduce the height you can raise the blade to.

[merlinron]

just about every contractor i work for brings one of those little plastic bosch or dewalt portables on the job when it comes time to do the case work. they seem to work ok, if they aren't forced to cut material over about an inch thick( most cabinet jobs only require cutting fillers and small stuff), but i can't stand using them,... just me,... something about a tool made of plastic. i say don't waste your money, sooner or later you're going to need to cut more than it is capable of handling and then you'll be upset with the results. thier tables are way too small to support anything over 3-4 ft.long and much less in width. even a cheap contractor style table saw from harbour freight is a better choice. your table saw is *the* main tool in your shop, reguardless of what you're making and what size shop you have. i would easily sacrifice some room and hassle of moving it around if need be, to have a real saw in my shop.

[openboater]

The more I see stuff like this, the more I marvel at guy's like Rushton and DaVinici.

And---no matter how good the tablesaw, I always mannage to cut a crooked line. I've gotten so good at it I got rid of my tablesaw and now rely strictly on the circular saw. There is absolutly no difference in the quality of my work, but I have a lot more shop space.

[Tylerdurden]

The other end of the rainbow.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/searover1916/P1010002-2.jpg

.

No more internet porn please. I can't handle it.

[Bill R]

AWWW come on! That is just not FAIR!

[Clinton B Chase]

Jim,

What the hell is that thing? :)

Clint, heading towards contractor saw land again

[Paul Girouard]

I'll just say one of the two guys I mentioned is a carpenter / cabinet maker , one of my sucess storeys on training him.

At his old home shop he did not have room for a full sized saw , he got the Dewalt , made a darn nice rolling work bench / table saw / assembly table for the one car garage.

Yes at the shop we worked at he could do some of the work , if he had to , but he was , and is a independent guy so most times he'd do his home work at home.

The bench he made housed the saw , pull the fence off and it was like I said a assembly/ work bench , need ,more room , and it's not raining , roll it out onto the driveway , it was pretty flat.

So a small saw is better than no saw , as Jim said you'll more than likely work your way up.

My first shop was a 12x12 storage shed the landlord let me build , he payed for the materials I built the shed , it , the shed still is standing / being used 24 years later so I guess he got the best deal. But that shed was better than working outside in the back yard.

It would be better to get a small saw now , hone your skills , than to wait for the "perfect" situation/ conditions.

Unless your drippin with money and can create those perfect conditions in 6 months.

I'd rather have a vertical panel saw than a sliding table saw , but for now I'll have to use my Grizzly ,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/longrippingsled2.jpg?t=1165082923

And the old door/ table extention when ripping long stock . Do waht ya gotta do to work the wood .

My .02 cents .

G/L Paul

[Lew Barrett]

I'd rather have a vertical panel saw than a sliding table saw , but for now I'll have to use my Grizzly ,

My .02 cents .

G/L Paul

I was going to say that, at least when it comes to working sheet goods. Ideally, you'd have both if you were doing a lot of work with sheet goods. We built seven desk/work surfaces and twenty bookcases for the building and new office I've been working on using my friend's panel saw. I don't know the brand, small manufacturer. The saw moved in both axis, not the goods, so it was a nice rig for what we had to do. It was loaded with a Festool on it's sled and the whole setup made the job much easier. Nothing wrong with the beautiful saw in the picture though!

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have an old Unisaw, that I bought for 350.00. I replaced the motor that was on it with a 3hp 220V, and bought a fence, and cleaned it up. It's an awesome old beast. I could never go back. Like Paul, I haul around a small table saw with me in the truck when I need it. I like those Freud blades too.. they work well at a reasonable price. I think those bench saws are pretty good, and you do have to deal with space.

I'd love to have a big sliding saw, but I don't have the need at the moment, or the space. NEed biGer sHop, moR ToOls DroOl foAm GibBEr...Sorry, lost my head temporarily. :)

[Bob Cleek]

Ditto to Jardine! I got my 5HP Unisaw with a 50" Unifence and rolling base for $800. It was only three years old. Put a Corian extension table top on it that I'm going to drop a router into. Fantastic machine. I just roll it into the corner when I need room. The top is a handy workbench as well. Given the multipurpose uses of the setup, the footprint isn't extravagant. Do yourself a favor. Shop around. The portable bench top machines are okay for cutting trim and such on a jobsite, but they won't handle sheet goods much beyond the size of their table tops and bog down on hardwood. They can be tweaked with aftermarket belts and super expensive thin kerf blades, of course, but by the time you've done all that, you are into it as much as it would cost for a decent used 2 HP cabinet saw.

[Clinton B Chase]

Found my saw looking online w/ Steven Bauer the other day...
http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Tool_Zone_Catalog_Contractor_Style_Tablesaws_1222. html
Top left. Should be much better than a worksite saw and take only a touch more space (it pushes flat against a wall/into corner).

Cheers,
Clint

[FG]

I've got the Bosch. The plastic base is nice when you need to move it. I do most of my cutting for canoe parts, so power to cut cedar strips or the occasional maple or mahogany is not an issue. The fence is nice as well as the table extension mechanism. I have not got a permanent shop I'm willing to use a table saw in (basement), so mine stays in the garage. I'd have a different machine in a permanent shop. Get a decent fence and the biggest table top you can fit.

[katey]

I just got one of the Rigids on the folding stand and I love it. One of the perks that they don't mention anywhere on the packaging is that it will fold up and store on end.

It's not light.... something like 95 pounds. But I can move it up and down stairs.

Katey