Surface for a work bench

[Cameron Roberts]

Im going to put together a simple workbench. What would be a good top to use? I was planning on using 3/4 MDF or 3/4 ply. What would a good height for a bench be? I drew up the plans for 4 1/2'.

Thanks

[emichaels]

Maple or beech made up to a butcher block type surface makes a great bench top. Height depends on how tall you are, where ever you feel comfortable working with a bench plane for 8 hours seems good to me.

Eric

[ 11-28-2005, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: emichaels ]

[Ron Carter]

Have one formica, one pine planking, one maple bowling alley section, and one steel, and one 3/4" plywood. Each has it's place and uses. 3/4 ply is a good compromise as it is easy and relatively cheap to replace when it gets roughed up which it will if you use it enough. 36" is the most commom height although the 3'x16' plywood decked boat building bench/strongback is 22" high.

[kc8pql]

All of the above work fine. I've got a 30" X 72" maple butcher block assembly table that I threw a sheet of MDF over about 25 years ago to keep paint of the table. The same piece is still there and has survived daily use. Maybe once a year I sand the blobs off. Hight 34" to 38" depending how tall you are. I'm 5' 11" but I like 34" because it's easier to assemble larger things. You don't need a ladder to reach the tops of things.

[ 11-28-2005, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[Rick Tyler]

A solid glued-up hard maple or beech is traditional, and really expensive. I made mine about 10 years ago out of a solid core door (picked up for a song as damaged at a local home center), wrapped with 8/4 maple around the edges, and a work surface of 1/4-inch tempered hardboard (Masonite). The hardboard is held on with carpet tape so that I can replace it when it wears out. Ten years and still just fine -- still with the original hardboard. I've added a Record 52-1/2 ED vise with maple jaws. I think it will last longer than me. The base is a traditional trestle shape, made out of 8/4 yellow poplar.

The great thing about making your own workbench is that you can make it to fit you and your uses. I'm 6'3" tall and used to use more power tools than hand tools, so my bench is higher than average -- I think it's about 41 inches. I also have a larger top than a traditional bench since I use it for both shaping and assembly.

[ 11-28-2005, 10:28 PM: Message edited by: Rick Tyler ]

[Rick Tyler]

Don't forget a recessed tool tray. Where else will you bury small tools under a layer of shavings and sawdust?

[ 11-28-2005, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: Rick Tyler ]

[ssor]

Depending on your needs, there is melamine faced mdf that works for a general purpose bench top. Nothing much sticks to it very well. I like to have some small pieces around for when I expect to be messy.

[Thorne]

Also note the threads on outfeed tables for tablesaws -- if the height is right, consider making ALL your work surfaces the same height as the tablesaw, that way they can all be used as support or outfeed for the saw.

Ditto on the replaceable surface recommendations above -- it will get thrashed and just replace it when beltsanding/leveling stops working.

[Clinton B Chase]

Just made a bench out of MDF 3/4". Nice and stiff. I still put a couple cross supports under it...my bench is 3x8' a nice size. Melamine 3/4" is also nice I use it at school for boat building...nice when you have goops and glues to clean up. Height...measure from the floor to your wrists when you are standing relaxed with arms just barely bent...that is you bench height...mine is 42" but i am also 6'6". My guess is you'll want one 32-36" high. Keep in mind what you'll be working on...if a cabinet then you won't want such a high bench probably.

Cheers,
Clint

[Bruce Hooke]

As the responses so far suggest, a lot depends on how you plan to use your bench. The right bench for a cabinetmaker would be all wrong for a multi-purpose bench that will be used for everything from woodworking to tool repair to occasional bits of metal working and maybe even some small engine work. A cabinetmaker will generally want a smooth bench that can be trued up occassionally to keep it dead flat (important for precision hand planing and joint cutting) and that has the meat to accept various bench dogs and the like. That's why cabinetmakers have generally gone with a nice thick hardwood bench top (not butcher block, which is more work to true because you are planing end grain). Ideally there would be a seperate, lower assembly bench which might have a glue-resistant top, and any bench would be carefully protected from paint and from oils that might stain the wood being worked. I say all this not to suggest that you go this route, but to point out the kind of issues that can arise depending on the nature of your work.

For general boatbuilding, woodworking, and other miscellanous work I think there is much to be said for using a good grade of plywood (I'd go for something like birch rather than douglas fir, but
AC fir would also work). As others have noted, plywood is sturdy and it can be replaced easily while being relatively cheap. I would avoid MDF because it is nice on occassion to screw stops and suchlike down to the bench, and plywood handles this better than MDF in my experience. I think I would also avoid melamine because it is too slippery for my taste, but for someone who does not do much hand planing and does do a lot of messy work, melamine might be just the ticket.

Be sure to think carefully about how any vice will be attached. Most vices will need something more than a sheet of plywood to attach to so you'll need to plan for that when you build the bench.

4 1/2' sounds WAY to high as a bench. If you will be doing things like hand planing you want to be able to put your weight into the work.

If you really want to delve into the world of workbenches get your hands on a copy of The Workbench Book. However, be forwarned that you will likely find all sorts of clever ideas that you will want to incorporate into your bench but that will make the bench more work to build! :D

[Paul Girouard]

One of my assy tables is 35 1/2 " , 1 " lower than the tablesaw table . If I need it to help with a odd crosscut I can put two pieces of 1/2 " under the part , but mostly my tablesaw table is big enough and I want the assy bench not to be in the way. Im 6'1" , used to be 6'2" , work must be compressing me :eek:

It is covered with P .lam came as a cover sheet to the shop I used to work at , FREE :cool: If you know of a local cab shop you might get a good deal on a like and kind , Just about anything that gets on it can be scraped off , This top is at least 15 years old .

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/tableoverhead.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/assytable.jpg

You could even just buy a off color piece of lam from a cab shop one they know they'll never use but have left over , I'd glue it on with white glue / carpenters glue roll it out witha paint roller put the lam on it roll out the sheet then just stack heavy stuff on it for 24 hrs if it's warm 48 hrs if it cold , it will be stuck for life , or you'll bust it up trying to get it off. Good luck Paul

[George Roberts]

Cameron Roberts ---

My bench is only 30" high. (The same height as the rest of my work surfqaces.)

I clamp any fixtures I need on top of the bench.

[Garrett Lowell]

As far as height is concerned, that which I've found works for me is just below palm level. For a good, general purpose top, try masonite. If this will be solely for woodworking, I'd avoid the masonite and go with a good piece of plywood, since you're looking for simple. I'm not overfond of MDF in this situation; it will be gouged and scarred quickly. The plywood will last much longer, IMHO.

[Ken Hutchins]

As the eyes get older a white surface helps to find stuff. Melamine or white paper under a sheet of plexiglass works great.

[bainbridgeisland]

This is slightly off the subject but related.

My workbench is 39" high (plywood topped). For small stuff this is right for me (6'-2"). I also have 2 very sturdy saw horses and a 3/4"x3'x4' piece of MDF I use for a portable bench. The MDF has cleats on the bottom of it to index over the saw horses (every once in awhile I add a drywall screw thru the top for especially critical jobs). This assembly is 27” high. I like this combination. The portable (low) bench is out of the way when I don't need it. Also, the portable bench meets a few of the main themes for my work space which are that everything should be multi-use and take up little space when not needed.

[dmede]

Has anyone mentioned solid core doors? I made a quick scan of the replies so far, didn't see it. For a general purpose bench it makes a great, inexpensive top. Mine is 30" x 60" I think. Add a backsplash to keep stuff from rolling off the table. Add an apron to the front for clamping to. A bench vise and some tool slots on one side and you got a great bench!

http://static.flickr.com/12/68345304_383caa4479.jpg?v=0

http://static.flickr.com/15/68345308_9aa04be43a.jpg?v=0

[Alan Peck]

Maple and other similar woods are great. But if you have a budget I have found that 1/4 " masonite over 3/4" plywood works great. The Masonite has a good smooth surface. I just fastened mine with small finishing nails and put a few coats of shellac on it. It's inexpensive and has the advantage of being easily replaceable. However, I have been using mine for 12 years and it shows no sign of needing to be replaced.

[N. Scheuer]

I built my "Ultimate Workbench" in 1987. It has aged quite well.

The legs are 4x4 Doug Fir, the frames are 2x6 Fir, with a single 3/4" Fir plywood shelf under the bench, and a double-layer (1-1/2") fir plywood top, faced with 1/8" Masonite.

The Masonite is stuck down with Silicone Adhesive so that it may be pryed off and replaced at some point (no time soon).

There is a Carpenter's vise at one end, backed up by an old "Bench Stop" that belonged tomy Grandfather. The other end features a giant Wilton Machinist's vise.

The finish is Deks #1.

The principal criteria was that the bench would positively not wiggle when used strenuously. The lag screws and epoxy used to fasten everything (except the Masonite) have performed in spades.

Measurements are 36" high, 30" deep, and 72" long.

Moby Nick

Moby Nick

[Cameron Roberts]

Thanks for all the replies. I thought about the birch ply, but its about 50 a sheet and the face veneers are very thin(at Lowes). I'd think they would wear through very quickly. I'll lower it for sure, and I think the MDF wins for the top. This will probably be taken apart after the boat is built, so longevity is not an issue. I just need something solid, sturdy and functiuonal.

[dmede]

Originally posted by Cameron Roberts:
Thanks for all the replies. I thought about the birch ply, but its about 50 a sheet and the face veneers are very thin(at Lowes). I'd think they would wear through very quickly. I'll lower it for sure, and I think the MDF wins for the top. This will probably be taken apart after the boat is built, so longevity is not an issue. I just need something solid, sturdy and functiuonal.the solid core door outer surface is basically 1/4" mdf. the inner filler is very heavy and adds a great deal to the table stablity. you can ussually find slightly damaged doors for cheap at any major lumber yard (even HD). It would be less than $50 I imagine and you would not need to add more layers under it as you would with a layer of MDF.

[Dave Gray]

I also use a solid core door. It is mounted on a 4x4 frame. It racks a bit because I have not pinned the mortise/tenons nor glued them as I plan to move sometime and dissasembly is important. It was has been a good, inexpensive setup although not quite as nice as dmede's.

[Shoalcove]

I made mine out of MDF but I glued up 4 layers of 3/4" and added a masonite top(replaceable) trimmed with maple and put it on a hardwood frame- free!! if you know someone at a heavy equipment dealer where stuff comes on skids. It weighs a lot but doesn't slid around. Pretty cheap compared to the stuff in Fine Woodworking type rags.Add a vice or two (to the bench, I mean) and it's the finest kind.

[MarEng]

Go dumpster diving in the local high end neighborhood. While working as a construction super for high end town homes in Houston I was able to get basically unlimited, and free, supplies of 3/4 sub floor decking (particle board with a heavy ply veneer on each side) and wood laminate flooring. Laminated the flooring to the sub-floor for two benches that are still going strong. (I used PVA instead of the floor adhesive used by the flooring guys.) The pre-finished flooring gives a smooth, easy to wipe clean surface and the decking provides enough 'weight' to work on. I have one top on cabinets and one I lay across saw horses. I also have a large work table built of scrap with a masonite top. The masonite is 10 years old and still going strong. The best part is the material was all free (except the masonite). It's truly amazing what people throw away.

[wyndham]

Ken and DMEDE have the plan. Solid core wood door. 3'6" x 7'. Cover with matte white formica. Nothing will stick to it, pencil marks can be erased, small stuff doesn't get lost. Ilike the matte white because I can do lots of layout in pencil and just rub it off when I'm done.

[bischoffboatworks]

I wanted the solid maple but couldn't afford it. So used 4x4 clear fir legs, no hardware (mortise/tendon), two layers of 2x4s biskitted together, topped with 3/4 inch maple ply. Installed a knee vise at one end for on-edge plank planing. Love it so far.

[Rick Clark]

I found some doors out of a church, they were 2 1/2" thick 36" wide 120" long HDF heavy buggers but they work out fine as I put them around my sewing machine. I sew all my sails on an old Mercury came from China only problem it is not zig zag.

The table is used for everything I do, as it takes the hole dining room

They cost me nothing it pay to ask every one you know that is close to home what your looking fore, they delivered the doors to me. ;)

[JimConlin]

Melamine (in other forms HP lam, formica) is great in terms of what it sheds and its low friction at an outfeed table.
My TS outfeed table has a formica surface and I have a 4x8 table of melamine & particleboard that I use for vacuum bagging and cutting glass and it works very well. However, i'm not sure i'd use melamine for a benchtop. I'm thinking it'd be hard on edge tools.
Is my concern misplaced?

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/50414150.jpg

If you save up your rip waste, all manner of thick, stable, laidup tops like the maple above can be made for benches, tables and jigs.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7297605/95066141.jpg

This bench top is oak, fir, madrone and maple.

Simply oil them to keep the glue and paint from sticking. A red Scotchbrite and whatever teak or linseed oil I happen to be using at the time once a week will do it.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by JimConlin:
Is my concern misplaced?That seems like a reasonable concern to me. I'd also be concerned about how slippery they would be when doing things like hand planing or any number of other similar tasks...

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by Bruce Hooke:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by JimConlin:
Is my concern misplaced?That seems like a reasonable concern to me. I'd also be concerned about how slippery they would be when doing things like hand planing or any number of other similar tasks...</font>[/QUOTE]My top is P lam , I use a sanding matte's , and if I belt sand or plane I use a bench stop , held by a clamp. yes sanding the stop would be on this end , planing the other end , common sense, one pictuer . I don't have sliding issues , and like the Plam top cuz it's tough, easy to clean , etc
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/benchstops.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sandinglight.jpg

[jimendel]

When working outside my garage, I make a temporary bench from 2 to 4 plastic 55 gallon trash cans and drywall screw a piece of 5mm luan ply of the appropriate size to the upsidedown cans. Temporary, cheap and effective.
:cool:

[merlinron]

several years ago, on a remodel of a k-mart store, i claimed a section of customer service counter that they were giving away. it's about 30"x48" and 29" high.,has 2 drawers on one half of it's 48" width and 3 shelves on the other. i laminated 3- 36"x48" layers of high density particle board over the top,rounder over the edges and mounted my woodworker's vice on the overhanging edge at one corner. let in a strip of maple with holes for bench stops and mounted a power strip one one side of the cabinet. this thing weighs a ton, is solid as a rock and flat as a piece of glass. it's all laminate covered, except for the top i put on, i left that bare particle board and it has lasted just fine,a few small nicks, but the bare particle board surface has held up well over the years because it is high density material. it's height ended up just right to double as an outfeed table for my tablesaw so it sits with the 48" length at right angles to the back of my saw and both sides of the bench are accessable.
one thing i did is to mount a length of 1x2 maple that pivots out from under the top on the opposite end on the table from the vice. this acts as a support when i need to work on a long piece clamped in the vice, such as edge planing.

[RonW]

As a side note on heigth, we all are not built the same or work on the same project in the same way. TWO bench heigths would be nice.

As per heigth, your average kitchen table is 30 inches high, and your kitchen counter top is 36 inches high, two good readily availble heigths to see what heigth might be best suited for you and your way of working.