MacGregor conoe planking

[Mick Herron]

Can anyone offer some suggestions on fitting planking. I am building a MacGregor canoe with rib bands notched into the station mold as per Tom Hill. I attempted to trace the plywood from the edges of the rib bands. This resulted in planks that were much to narrow on each end. I then made a paper template (Red Rosen Paper) on the mold This template when transferred to plywood resulted in correct plank width but the curve the plank as it approached the stem is going the wrong direction.

I would appreciate any suggestions, this is my first attempt at glued lapstrake.

Thanks

[JimConlin]

It takes practice.
I recommend the Tom Hill book and the video. The procedure is not straightforward.

Scarph some doorskin to the length of your planking stock and pattern the planks. If you bugger one up, use the buggered pattern to spile a good one. And, you'll have patterns for the next boat.

Jim

[Paul Scheuer]

You are tracing the pattern for the next plank with the lap bevel formed on the existing plank and positioning your pattern stock on the bevel, right ? It makes a big difference. If you trace the pattern on the ribbands, then lay it on the lap, it will not sweep up correctly in the ends. (Is that what you mean by curving the wrong way ? Curving toward the keel instead of sweeping up to the peaks ? )

Work with the lap edge of the new plank until it fits perfectly, then trace the top (inverted top) edge for cutting. If the plank or pattern stock is laying on the lap and flat on the next ribband it should fit perfectly. In fact, you might only need one pattern for each plank pair.

Good luck, send pics.

[NormMessinger]

I had a heck of a time getting out the strakes when I built the first MacGregor. For the second one I made templates from tempored masonite (the dark brown hard board smooth on one side and rough with little squares on the other, know what I mean). A pattern works for both sides. I found paper was much too flexible. If you have a router you can consentrate on getting the lap over the previous strake correct. Cut the strake a bit wide and use a flush cut bit in the router to trim the strake to the next riband. Once the pattern fits the flush cut bit in the router makes quick workof cutting out a couple of strakes. I think the time to make the pattern pays off in material saved also.

The curves on the strakes are not alway like a big open "C". Some of the curves are a bit more line an "S" or maybe a double "S", humped in the middle and turned up toward the ends.

[Mick Herron]

Jim, Paul and Norm,

Thank you, for your replys. I sense that I am not the only one who has had problems with fitting the planks. I'll post progress as soon as I have made some.
Thanks again!

[Paul Scheuer]

I went back and read Hill's book. He suggests trimming the plank to the ribband with a laminate trimmer. Sounds foolproof.