Intro and loose joints

[rivet]

Hello everyone
I recently found your forum and have been impressed by the discussions going on here. I am a cabinet maker in the Seattle area and I have become smitten by wooden boats.

Decided to take on Walter Simmons Trap Skiff this winter but have not gotten beyond setting up the jig.

I also have 61 cruisers inc. restoration going on. I have detached the front and side wind screens from the boat. What I have is, basically, 2 rectangular and 2 triangular frames rabetted for glass. Of course some of the rabet joints used at the connection of stiles and rails are slightly loose. There is a screw mechanically holding the joint together (think metal dowel.) I would rather not completely disassemble the frame if possible - some of the joints are good (not bad for 44 year old glue)

My questions are: Has anyone had sucess injecting an adhesive into a joint? What type of glue? Will CPES ever for a bond or is it strictly used as a sealer?

Thanks for your help Expect more ?s as I get more involved with the skiff.
John

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I am a cabinet maker in the Seattle area and I have become smitten by wooden boats.
Ayuup... well, if you hadn't bought a wooden boat by now, I would say you were treatable, but since you already have one, I think you're terminal.

CPES is a sealer only.

If this boat is not going to be in a covered slip or trailered, consider this: Water will get in, no matter how small the crack or fissure. Use that as a basis for repair complexity. That being said, for temporary repairs I have injected using a large animal syringe. If you have the chance now to take it apart... you should probably do it.

[ 03-02-2005, 10:44 PM: Message edited by: Peter Malcolm Jardine ]

[rivet]

Peter, thanks for your reply.
You're right, Terminal. Send me a toe rail tag.

I should take it apart. Got it!
The boat is trailered and kept under cover and I would like to see the boat go another 40 years. So after diassembly and re-glue of the joint what protects it from water intrusion?

One thought I had was to cut a small vein along the length of the joint and fill with polysulphide. Would this be worthwhile? What is good practice in this case? Any recomendations?
Thanks again
John

[L.W. Baxter]

Rivet, were it me, I wouldn't dissassemble those frames. There are plenty of other things to do, eh?

Epoxy will go anywhere water will. Put some masking tape around the joint, dribble some epoxy in there, and it will fill right up.


--Lee

[rivet]

LW Yeah lots to do but I want to do it right.

Actually the joint is too tight to dribble into. When I grab the frame and flex it I can see a hairline crack open. It is a rabet joint and the short lap is still holding. I think just the end grain let go.
I am not used to working with epoxy. Are you saying that if it sits on the joint it will get in there and bond?
John

[Bob Smalser]

If you apply unthickened marine epoxy to the crack with a spatula and play a heat gun over it lightly, the heat thins the epoxy to the consistency of water and it'll seep much deeper than any syringe attempt will.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

Rivet,
I've used epoxy to fix loose joints and cracks that were hard to get at with good effect.
One method is to drill a stategic hole into the joint/crack and force epoxy in with a plastic glue injector. Clean the injector with vinegar.
The other technique takes some time. Get the crack horizontal if possible. Dribble epoxy on the crack and flex the crack open and closed. The movement will help work the epoxy down into the crack.
Charlie

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Rivit- what about the possibility of having to replace broken glass at some point? Epoxy will mean you have to grind out the joints. Suggest use the goop auto glass shops use to seat windschield in place. Comes in calk tubes

[rivet]

Thanks for some good ideas. Does epoxy require pressure to make a good bond ie. does it need to be clamped after it is worked into the joint?

Dale,
Broken glass wont be a problem. The glass is stopped in.
John

[Ron Williamson]

I've drawn epoxy into joints with a vacuum and pushed it with LIGHT air pressure(safety glasses are a must).Paper towel tubes and duct tape are your friends.
No,you don't need pressure with epoxy,but sometimes it will run out from where you want it to stay and will starve the joint.
Again use tape.
R