Sikkens Cetol on teak?

[CJ]

I'm putting new teak handrails and other trim on the exterior of my boat (34 feet of teak total) and want to maintain them as little as possible and still have them look nice. In the past, I've used teak oil - I'm done with that. I've tried Sikkens Cetol on a previous boat, but sold the boat a year later, so I never got to see how it really held up (although a year beats the oil treatment).

Questions: Is this a good way to go? Since these are new rails, and never treated before, what kind of preparation is required? Best way to apply it? Number of coats? Method of maintenance? Also, some of the trim will be slightly curved to the shape of the boat's wheelhouse. If I put a few coats of Cetol on first, then bend the teak (no steaming involved) will the cetol crack? Thanks.
CJ

[Ron Williamson]

We love it.
Some hate the colour,but I'm colour-blind and can't tell that I should hate it.
Maintenance involves a light scuff/sand and then application of 2-3 coats.End of story.
Bending won't hurt it.
R

[plyboat]

It is all we use at Devlin and we like it. It applies like a varnish but wears like an oil (doesn't flake) areas that get worn can be touched up and blend in fairly well. Cetol Marine has a little pigment so continuall application over the years can give you muddy brown appearance, but there is a Cetol Light that very little pigment. I think the Cetol Gloss is more maintenance, like a varnish, I have used it a bit but but really do not have the exposure to it to offer a recommendation. I have not used Cetol on new teak, would not hesitate if it came up.
---Joel---

[Bob Perkins]

I've used Cetol over teak and been happy with it. I did have a situation where water got under near the edge and found that if I used CPES - I could have avoided scraping it off and redoing it.

So Consider CPES as a primer coat.

I put on 2 coats of the Gloss on my toerails every year.. Works great.

Take Care,
Bob

[CJ]

Does the Cetol "Light" have the same properties as the full-bodied Cetol? Is it simply lighter in color, or does it require more attention because it has less pigment to it? Anyone?

[Puka]

Over the last 8 years I have used Sikkens cetol on house joinery I have not been impressed.I don't think it can handle the wet dry cycles & uv concentration of the NZ climate. I also don't go for the "plastic stain" look it imparts. The Rep. recommends a minimum 200microns. That is a thick finish.Looks great inside with 1 primer and two thin top coats and actually stays on. Exterior,
max. 18mths and then it starts looking like streaky treacle on recoat.Four years and its a full strip if you want to see the timber!They don't sell "light" here anymore.First final coat looks ok,(a little too orange)then its all down hill. There simply isn't a clear finish that stands up, and is easily recoated to first coat finish.

[ 04-01-2005, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: Puka ]

[John-NY]

Excuse my ignorance but why not use Teak Oil, what is wrong with it?

I've used it on my home deck and some of my outdoors furniture with little problem but have zero experience of it in a marine environ so i'm looking for an education here.

Thanks

John

[Mike Vogdes]

John

Oiled teak looks great but does not last very long due to the oily surface attracting dirt and grime.

[Dave Hadfield]

I use it on the mahogany coamings and the masts and spars on our ketch. I also use it on our cedar-sided house. I like it. It looks fine and requires far less attention than any other coating I've ever used . On the boat I try to get one coating on per year.

Our handrails are teak. When I bought her they were painted brown. I took them off, brought them home, spent considerable time one winter stripping them back to bare wood, then applied (in shop-controlled conditions) about 10 coats of teak oil. Back on the boat I saw them start to turn black in 2 months.

So I stripped them again and applied Sikkens Dek Base and then Dek (topcoat). Several coats. I picked this variety of their product because I knew I'd be stepping on it from time to time.

It's done the job perfectly. It doesn't lift off the teak, wears slowly, looks fine, and with one coat a year I expect no further problems.

I don't have much use for the Sikkens Marine. I prefer their 2-part coatings, where the first is a thin penetrator that sets up a good bond for the UV resistant topcoat. They're cheaper, too.

[sdowney717]

Contact the folks at
www.nyalic.com (http://www.nyalic.com)
100% UV proof waterproof crystal clear coating

I first heard about this from the bikers who shine their motorcycles using Nyalic.
It is supposed to work well on wood. But ask them yourself.
I doubt any of the forum people have ever heard of it, but it is used commercially.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Does the Cetol "Light" have the same properties as the full-bodied Cetol? Yes, but it's less filling. ;)

[Mike Vogdes]

tastes great...