Broken Frames in Century Raven

[Robert McNitt]

I have six broken frames in a row and they have created a somewhat of a hard spot in the hull. Could some one first recomend the order in which they should be replaced? and second, Do I need to remove any planking to clamp the new frames into place to help bring the hull back into shape?

Thanks for any feed back
Robert

[Gary E]

Originally posted by Robert McNitt:
I have six broken frames in a row and they have created a somewhat of a hard spot in the hull.

Do I need to remove any planking to clamp the new frames into place to help bring the hull back into shape?Is that a Plank on SAWN Frame inboard speedboat?
If so, and I wanted to REPAIR, not RESTORE, I would push the planks back to where they came from and sister the broken frames with bigger frames.

If restore is your goal, then all bets are off.

What is a Hard spot?

Plank removal may or may not be required.

[pipefitter]

Seems to me that maybe replacing every other one leaving the in between broken ones to help somewhat hold it's shape or as a guide? So one can see if the new framing pulls the other broken ones back into place might be a good idea. I remember a boatwright I know repairing a shrimper in this way.
Also,forgot to say that after you replace everyother rib you do have to go fix the other broken ones. I know you probably figured that out but figured I should edit to that effect.

[ 06-08-2005, 12:38 AM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[RJL]

I just replaced 26 ribs in a 22' Century Raven .No planks need to be removed but to replace the entire rib the side cover boards have to be removed then remove every other broken rib and steam a new rib that is long enough to go from the top of the shear to the keel plus 2 or 3 inches.1 hour steam time works for the 7/8 x 1 1/8 ribs. when the rib is steamed remove it with gloves and slide it in from the top along the planking to the keel. Stand inside the boat and push the hot rib out with your foot to help bend it .work fast because the rib cools quickly.When the rib is almost into the socket in the keel driive it down with a hammer and clamp it on the top with a pony clamp to pull it down tight to the planking . replace the screws in the planks and your done.

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

A very good friend of mine had A Century Raven when I was growing up. Spent many great hours fishing and skiing Lake Erie in one. Finding green (fresh cut) white oak for steam bending new ribs may be your biggest challenge. ;)
My friends 1960 something Raven had a 6cyl. Gray Marine engine but it had endless power and speed.
Classy Boat, definately worth restoration.
You'll see. :D

http://www.antiqueboat.com/boats/images/dyks19-4.jpg

[ 06-07-2005, 11:08 PM: Message edited by: Mr. Know It All ]

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

http://www.centuryboatclub.com/decade/clinker/63clinker.jpg

http://www.centuryboatclub.com/decade/clinker/63raven22.jpg

[ 06-15-2005, 07:38 AM: Message edited by: Mr. Know It All ]

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

My friend's Raven looked like this one...

http://www.centuryboatclub.com/horsetrader/008-66ravenferrrill.jpg

[Jack Heinlen]

Nice boat Kevin.

RJL has it right. My only concern runs to how out of shape the hull has become. It could be that once you have the caprail off and half the broken frames out it will come back. Or, it might not, in which event I think I'd make some temporary partial molds of the affected area taking the shape off the undistorted side. They could be from areas between frames. Two or three would probably do the trick. Fasten those, pulling the hull back to shape, then bend the new frames.

P.S. A helper to put force on the frame head and clamp while the fellow in the boat pushes at the bend isn't necessary, but it can help to have an extra set of hands.