Painting over nonskid

[capnharv]

How does one rough up the surface of a painted nonskid deck to get a fresh coat to adhere?

It seems to me that sanding wouldn't work, and I don't like the idea of washing the deck, letting it dry and slapping on another coat.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Harvey

[Mike Vogdes]

How bout a preasure washer and a stiff bristle brush?

[Ian McColgin]

Quite often it's better to take the non-skid right off and begin anew but for those times when it just needs a little refreshing:

I first wash really vigorously with water, ivory, a brush, and mucho norweegen steam.

Once it's dry, I rub it with a solvent compatible with the old and new paint.

When painting, I usually thin the deck paint and put on as minimal a layer as I can, so's not to impeed the non-skid.

On Goblin with her painted non-skid decks, I could do that every other year, about thrice before the non-skid was gunked and had to be done over. This works for traditional paints that can be micro-etched, as it were, by the right solvent. Check your paint first.

G'luck

[carioca1232001]

Ian McColgin wrote:


I first wash really vigorously with water, ivory, a brush, and mucho norweegen steam.
Could you please clarify as to what is meant by ivory and norweegen steam ?

I need to redo the 2-part white polyurethane paint on my non-skid coach-top.

[capnharv]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'd really rather not take the nonskid off if possible. There's no great bulidup of gunk, so it should work well with another coat.

I hadn't thought about thinning the deck paint. I'll do that.

I was cleaning some brightwork last year and used TSP. I looked like it was doing a nice job cleaning off the deck too.

Ian, I want to know what ivory and norweegen steam is. I'm guessing Ivory Snow soap and scrubbing with hot water. Close?

Thanks,

Harvey

[Bruce Hooke]

I'm fairly confident that by Ivory, Ian simply means standard dishwashing detergent. I don't see any reason why the brand would matter. Ivory has come to be used, in some cases, roughly like the term Kleenex -- a brand name used to identify a generic product. Norwegian steam is a slag expression meaning, basically, vigorous application of your muscles. "Elbow grease" is a similar slag expression that means about the same thing. In other words, rub it vigorously, rather than just giving it a quick pass...

[carioca1232001]

Thanks Bruce.
No elephant hunt and/or norwegian boiler required to get the job done !

[JimConlin]

In other circles, it's called potato power.

If the nonskid has not already been coated with a conventional paint, you might consider using a two-part LPU paint. They're thinner and they weather better. so filling the texture of the nonskid will take many more years. When that time comes, add sime griptex to the LPU. That works well, too.

[Jay Greer]

Outlawed in California by the EPA, "Sandease" or "Liquid Sandpaper" if you can find them, wil soften the surface enough to create a chemical bond with your new finish.
JG

[ 01-15-2006, 08:45 PM: Message edited by: Jay Greer ]

[Hughman]

A wipe with Penetrol after cleaning will help the new paint bond well, also. If the existing paint is sound, it might be all you need.

[ 01-15-2006, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[capnharv]

Penetrol-hmm, I like that idea. I'll try it on a small area first.

Thanks!

Harvey

[Wild Wassa]

I'll second Hugh's advice unless the surface is chalky. You will know if it is chalky by rubbing your finger on it (even when it doesn't look chalky). If it is chalky use Flood's other product E-B Emulsabond.

Definately degrease and dewax the anti-skid before using either Penetrol or E-B Emulsabond.

Warren.

[ 01-15-2006, 11:39 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[JimConlin]

What to wipe with depends on the paint to be used. For LPU paint, i'd go with something more aggressive, like one of the "Liquid Sandpaper" products or just plain acetone on a clean rag.

[capnharv]

Paint? I'm using plain old alkyd enamel (z-spar).

I feel nervous using something too aggressive (like liquid sandpaper).

Thanks,

Harvey

[Wild Wassa]

Don't think of me as a harbinger of doom Capt'n but I can see horrible things happening with your new coat not keying well or lasting adequately, if you don't go to a bit of effort. Washing down the paint to degrease and dewax it, is the easy bit.

Warren.

[ 01-16-2006, 02:07 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[pipefitter]

TSP will degloss most one part alkyds.If it is,you will see the color coming off with the rinse.
Warren,dont you think the nonskid itself will act as a keyed surface to some extent?If it fails,you are back to square one and would have to sand it anyways.

[Wild Wassa]

G'day Pipefitter, I didn't ask what kind of anti-skid, perhaps I should have ... what type is it Capt'n?

I just pictured a minimal grip anti-skid (a bit of grit in the paint like most boats use) the worst scenario stuff, rather than a detailed textured anti-skid (like a textured embossing) ... there will be some physical keying with a good quality anti-skid.

Once a bit of new paint lifts texture doesn't key too well, that’s what I time travelled to in my doom scenario.

Warren.

[pipefitter]

Agreed there is no substitute for a new surface.Most adhesion problems after the fact,I found when someone had painted over dead/chalked paint with chalk being the worst.TSP will get that much out of the way.It should leave a well adhered previous coat to an almost primer like state ideally.Try a little TSP in a small spot,let it sit on there for a few.Wipe it with a clean rag and see what comes up.If you can get the gloss/dead paint off,it will help and might even last awhile.

[capnharv]

I used TSP on the toerails last fall and thought it was cleaning the deck as it washed over. It seemed to clean the deck nicely even though that wasn't the plan. . .

Warren, you're right-its not a fully textured deck-it's the non skid put on under the paint.

The deck was put on about 5 years ago and hasn't seen lots of wear. I haven't seen any lifting paint (yet).

Thanks again for all the good input!

Harvey

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by carioca1232001:
Ian McColgin wrote:

</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />I first wash really vigorously with water, ivory, a brush, and mucho norweegen steam.
Could you please clarify as to what is meant by ivory and norweegen steam ?</font>[/QUOTE]"Ivory" is a trademark for a particular brand of soap (Procter & Gambles Ivory Soap), but as has been pointed out, it's being used here as a generic reference to detergent.

"Norwegian Steam" is an idiomatic reference to old-fashioned muscle-power.

I believe it's often used in a somewhat derogatory manner, usually by Swedes :D when referring to someone doing something in a manner that's not necessarily the most efficient.

I suspect the Norwegians call it "Swedish steam" :D :D

[carioca1232001]

As you may have noted Ian , Bruce Hooke was quick to decipher that one :D

Anyhow, many thanks for the recipe. Should be putting it into practice in the coming weeks, as Zindabad´s major overhaul seems to be drawing to a close - thank heavens - after 18 months of non-stop work. :rolleyes:

One thing for sure .... I am not going to take on another task (read, boat!) as taxing as this for a very, very long time......

[carioca1232001]

ERRATA:

In lieu of


As you may have noted Ian... kindly read

As you may have noted Nicholas Carey ....

My apologies . redface.gif

[RodB]

The bristle brush and a real good scrub sounds good.... should provide a roughed up surface...then a very good rinse...then apply a 25% thinned (or more) coat of paint (...perhaps two coats if the non-skid is not covered too much by paint.

RB

[ 01-16-2006, 08:22 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]