keel replacement on 17' Garvey

[Siebert]

Hello

I salvaged a 17' garvey built in the early 60's two years ago. The boat is built of 5/8 marine plywood and has white oak and phillipine mahagony (don't as me why) chine battens and keel. I spent the first winter working on it. I ran it around last summer. During repairs, I replaced the sheer clamp, portions of the deck, cockpit combings, portions of the bottom and one transom knee. At the time, I really didn't care for the type of boat or it's lines, but needed something to run around in so I did the work. Long story short, I have developed a real appreciation for the design. The boat is more seaworthy in heavy chop than I imagined and does very well under way when loaded with people / fish / crabs, etc.

Because I wasn't certain that I wanted to keep this boat, I gently overlooked the rot in the keel rationalizing that it was sound enough to serve a season or two and I would decide what to do with it latter. Well, the day of reckoning has finally come.

My questions are:

Should I replace the whole keel or should I cut out the offending piece and scarf and bolt in a new piece. The keel was formed out of a 12/4 x 6 inch piece of mahogany faired to match vee of the bottom of the boat. The section with the rot is located near where the keel begins to rise towards the bow.

If I replace the whole keel (which I am leaning towards) what wood should I replace it with? Because this boat is what it is, a 40 yeaar old plywood work boat, I am looking to go inexpensive here. One thought is to use an old yellow pine timber I recovered from a demolished home. Any idea how hard something like this would be to steam bend?

Lastly, should I do now what I should have done before and take the chain saw to this boat and build a new one? Occaisionally I wonder whether I be better taking the lines off this boat and building a new one. For starters, a new one wouldn't have the 6 or 7 degrees of twist in it or the odd height transom that no modern outboard fits well.

[Donn]

Steve:

I'd either go the cheapest route, and cut out the bad wood and replace it, or the most expensive...build a new one.

Keep in mind that if you build a new one, you won't treat it the same as the old one.

[On Vacation]

Person after my foundest memories. Yes I know exactly the boat. Use and abuse and fix. Wooden Boat number 49. DO you have access to post a picture or two and I can tell you about them. If the keel is mahogany, it is probably Lauan mahogany if it was built on the shore. Do you have the name of the original builder?

A new one is a piece of cake to build. But first we must take a peek. And another answer to your question to the Mahogany, it was usually straight grain.

[ 06-14-2002, 07:53 PM: Message edited by: oyster ]

[Mike Vogdes]

Na, don't chain saw it, Garveys are easy to fix.
It sounds like you allready got pretty intimate with it anyway. You should be able to pick up a piece of douglass fir pretty cheap or use the yellow pine you are sitting on. Can you post some pictures?

[On Vacation]

Most of the keels were steam bent in the older ones of this vintage. It is a very harsh turn up in the bow. He will need to either laminate a new one or steam bend a new one. With the bottom on, if the boat has some deadrise, it is almost impossible to do with the bottom on it. If you use fir, find some vertical grain to use.

[Garvy]

Hi ,, i am working on a 1979 30 ft BARNEGATE GARVY and i just wanted to say fix it don,t destroy it have fun Eric

[Siebert]

Hi guys:
I will get some photos. I was looking through some old pics and did not have any that showed the boat very well. I will post some tommorow.

Seems the general consensus is to cut out the old keel and replace it. I think I like the advice about using the the pine I have or going with some D. Fir.

Another question... What should I do to support the boat while I cut out the old keel and replace it. Can I brace the hull from the bottom with a few plywood frames ( I am thinking three, one near the stern, one about 2/3 forward and one near the bow, with stretchers to support the boat between the stern frame and the next forward one and then work from inside).

As for who built it, I have no clue. I recovered it from the clubhouse of a private swim club in Fairfax County, Virginia that want out of business in the early 80's. The earliest state liscense sticker was dated 1976. I spoke with a fellow while I was restoring it who said that he remembered skiing behind the boat as a kid in 1966.

[ 06-17-2002, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: Siebert ]

[Siebert]

Hey Guys:
Here are are the photos I promised. A view from off the starbord quarter

http://mygarvey.freeservers.com/images/mvc-004f.jpg

from same direction looking in the boat

http://mygarvey.freeservers.com/images/mvc-005f.jpg

and of the rot. The round plugs are from where I took some small cores to gauge the depth of rot.

http://mygarvey.freeservers.com/images/mvc-006f.jpg

I am looking for some advice on cutting out the old keel, bending the new keel, and keeping the boat in shape while I do the work
Thanks!!

Steve

[Siebert]

Oyster:
Thanks for your help. One last question. I see in your photos that you have built on 5 stations plus the transom. When building a jig to hold the boat in shape (and perhaps improve it a bit) should I go with five stations too?

Steve

P.S. The coaming had been varnished when I got it. I stripped it and revarnished. I think I'll paint it next time, it looks a bit prissy for this boat!!

[ 06-19-2002, 10:39 PM: Message edited by: Siebert ]

[Siebert]

Thanks!!!

I have been working on the jig / frames for the past week after work I have two made so far. The first is at the frame immediately aft of the first frame. I have also built a frame immediately aft of the leading edge of the scarf in the chine. I think that I am only going to build two more. One at the widest portion of the boat at the third frame aft, and halfway to the transom.

You are right about the 1 x 10 at the bow. I replaced it last year when I did the rub rail / sheer.

I will get the exact measurements of the boat tonight and email tommorow. I'll also post some photos of my handiwork on the frames / jig. I have been building them out of hem-fir 2 x 4s left over from a basement finishing project I helped a friend with.

Working forward on the jig has been slow because of the curviture. I suspect that the last two frames will go together fast.

[On Vacation]

Make you some templates out of 1/4 inch luan, pieces screwed together with sheet rock screws and then transfer to good stuff. The normal angle in the foremost jigs runs about 10 degrees and the extreme bow will be aobut 15 degrees on the sides. If you have a two foot bow deck the bottm pieces will need to have a 45 degree cut and if you have a 4 foot bow deck the bottom pieces will need a about 30 degrees.

The easiest way to do the foward ones if you haven't already done them will be to come straight across the bottom on top of the chime boards and then put a piece to the keel in the center line screwed to the piece at the rail inside and then to the bottom to support the keel till you turn it over. Then you can add the bottom pieces after you have removed the bottom.