View Full Version : cabintop repair

02-08-2004, 07:48 AM
The pics on imagestation tell the tale. No weepholes around the windscreen caused puddleing and rot. The rot has been removed. I want to replace the removed ply and then remove all paint,and put two layers of 6oz glass over the top before painting. The two layers of glass is because I have two rambunctios boys. This should strengthen the top without adding too much weight. Does this sound good?

Rick my boat (http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288470105)

Dave Hadfield
02-08-2004, 11:04 AM
I'm faced with the same problem on my ketch. Last spring I replaced the hatchway framing and recovered around it with new plywood and epoxy. Now I need to replace the rest of the cloth covering the cabin roof. At the moment there is a kind of heavy, plastic-impregnated roofing paper on it called Cellite, which has done very well for 50 years, but which now is not bonding to the plywood it covers.

Around the hatch I used Dynel cloth and epoxy. One layer. This seemed to work well.

The dynel is much thicker than standard fiberglass cloth. It takes more epoxy to fill and cover it, but this is desireable. It's also easy to work with before wetting -- more like a clothing fabric than the standard glass cloth. Less unravelling.

You might investigate. If you used this method you'd only have to lay down cloth once.

But your stated method will also work.

02-08-2004, 11:12 AM
I havent woked with dynel yet. how isit for workability, strength, weight and cost.


02-08-2004, 11:24 AM
Nice boat Rick,

I like the idea of keeping it useable while you are working on it. It will keep all parties that much more interested in the project.


Nora Lee
02-08-2004, 11:53 AM
Sea Fever is getting a whole new cabintop after 35 years, this is the only part of the boat that is not teak!

The previous owner cut some holes in the cabintop to add a Carry Cool Ac, a Defender propane heater and an exhaust fan in the galley area...he never sealed the edges of the plywood, where he cut these holes, and thus rot has set in. Rather than do a patch job, we have decided to replace the entire top.

Capt Jon is planning to put formica facing in to main salon (no more painting the overhead), and a sandwich of 1/4" ply then glass, then 1/4" ply, then another layer of glass. all sealed with CPES before installation.


Nora Lee

[ 02-08-2004, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: Nora Lee ]

02-08-2004, 09:08 PM

Assuming no extreme bend you will likely be better off attaching the formica to the 1/4" ply before putting it down rather than laying down the formica and then the ply.

Been doing a lot of household formica work lately and can actually say I am starting to like working with the stuff.


02-08-2004, 09:33 PM
be careful if you are going to fasten throught he formica. fasteners going through the formica can cause it to crack.


ken c
02-08-2004, 10:41 PM
back to wolfies post, i think its a good idea to glass the deck, but two coats may be overkill. the glass is great for preventing checking, but does not really add much strength. i dont think your boys will do much more than scratch the paint, and if they do, im sure youll tell them that such rambunctious behavior is unsafe and has no place on a boat. tongue.gif

02-09-2004, 11:00 AM
Dynel is the way to go, particularly if you want a genuine looking ( like cotten canvas decks) nonskid pattern. Check with Defender or Jamestown. No more expensive tahn fiberglass, except it will take more epoxy to "fill" it. It has much better abrasion and somewhat better impact resistance than fiberglass, drapes around corners and round-overs very easily, and.... NO ITCH! You just don't find it at most boat stores.