boat shed

[Tom Mac]

I am thinking about a canvas cover boat shed to build a 26 footer. Anyone know about the canvas or plastic covers ? The garage is a bit small for the job. There are a lot of these covers, and I want a cover that would last at least 6 or7 years. Any ideas? thanks Tom Mac

[Thorne]

There has been a number of threads and recommendations on this topic, so it is worth using the search function. Much depends on various factors like: cost, flooring/slab, neighbors, weather/wind exposure, overall size, snow load, etc.

Some folks have had them work fine, others have neighbors complaining, sheds failing due to wind/snow, or just being under-built. Might help if you could describe your budget, flooring/slab plans, overall dimensions, power/ventilation requirements, etc.

[clifonef]

I bought a shelter 14' x 36' x 10' for my boat made by ClearSpan, sold at Farmtek.com. It is excellent protection from snow, rain, wind and sun. The zipper roll-up door is pretty cheesy, and both zippers broke after about a year. I just tie it shut now. Not good for daily use. I am going to install an end-panel of 2x4 & ply with a pair of swinging doors (eventually).

You will want to have mechanical ventilation. Under direct sun it will cook you pretty quickly. In the spring you will also have major condensation problems, which the fan helps.

[Concordia...41]

The website on our preferred source - www.snapcanopy.com is either down or out of business. But that being said, point is if possible to purchase only fittings on-line.

Our first cover we purchased as a kit. Because of shipping price factors, it arrived with pipe lengths cut to 5'. Dave had already ordered (from a local chain link fence place) 14' lengths to raise the roof height.

The instructions actually said that the tension of the tarps kept the whole business in place, but discretion being the better part of valor, pre-drilled and put two sheet metal screws through each connection point (and duct taped to prevent wear on the tarp).

First failure = Tropical Storm Gabrielle

http://www.concordiayawl.com/proj2.html

Even cutting the tarp loose, every failure began at one of the 5' cut joints across the top.

We recycled the joint fittings, purchased longer lengths of pipe from the local fence guy (heavier grade also - same price since we saved shipping charges) and all was fine after that.

Probably the best selection of tarps, shade cloth, and accessories is available at www.farmtek.com

Good luck with your project.

[Katherine]

I have (or had) a canopy similar to Margo's over the Owens. The tarp decided to remove itself during a windstorm last fall. Dad finally got most of the pipes repaced / repaired just this week. He sunk 4x4's next to each upright on one side to keep the frame from wracking in the wind.

[davidagage]

What about something like these? I may get one for my back yard...

Tents (http://stores.ebay.com/OUTDOOR-EDGE-STORE)


David.

[Texas Boater]

What about something like these? I may get one for my back yard...

Tents (http://stores.ebay.com/OUTDOOR-EDGE-STORE)


David.

David - The price is right but it looks a little lightweight for a long term enclosure.

[davidagage]

Ivan, I didn't see the "last 6 or 7 years" in Tom's post. I am looking at something to last through the winter to refinsh the topsides and then I am not to concerned about it.

David

[Tom Mac]

Hello Thorne, Okay here is what it is going to be. Wooden floors, plywood on joists, electiric power come next door in the garage for heavy tools, extentions for drills and sanders. there is not much snow anymore in my neck of the woods.( I hope I do not Jink myself) In the winter months of Jan and Feb, would be a bit cold, take off to sunny places. Spend about a grand for the set up. 6 or 7 years? Yeah I heard it takes about a year for a coat of varnish to dry. So you know how many coats. Thanks Tom Mac

[Ed Harrow]

http://www.ennui.net/~timothy/Boats/EdHarrow/home.fiam.net/eeharrow/cover.htm

It's still standing, but I'd do a couple of things differently.

[Wild Dingo]

Still looks like a chapel Ed ;)

Heres what I have for a boatshop...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid165/pbdeabc5e405ca4f0257e14bb2bf9e18d/f469eb28.jpg

70ft x 30ft x 25ft... heavy steel frame on 10in pine poles 5ft above ground level 4ft in ground heavy tarplike fabric over made by some mob called Clear Span Shelters

Im presently in the processes of waiting for a new cover since that one destroyed itself during the last couple of storms a few months back... from what the bloke I spoke to at Clear Span told me from my discription of its materials and construction its apparently over 10 years old... that should about do a build eh?! ;)

[Tom Mac]

Ed Harrow, Good set up. After you put the beams or arches, what did you use to cover? plastic sheeting or tarp? I can not tell. It looks like you used both. This set up sounds good, make whatever size you need.What would you do difference now? Thanks Tom Mac

[CK 17]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid140/p98996c3a1fc2e3f05193ae758692ef4c/f6f28ce1.jpg

Here's what I used. it's cover with nine mil shrink wrap. unshrunk, just streched over the frame. It surviuved 50 knot winds no problem. I built the frames 3 feet on center.http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid140/pb66701d372371cc4b9992180eae3617e/f6f4e221.jpg

Joe Schena.

[gert]

Notice how none of these guys are living on 50 ft city lots?

What should be the minimum clearence around the boat to the walls be?
Whats comfortable; is 2' each side enough?

[Concordia...41]

What should be the minimum clearence around the boat to the walls be?

Get every inch of width you can. Have you ever heard someone say, "Gee- I hate having this much room to work..."??????

I promise, at this stage, you have no earthly idea how many times you're going to be moving things, turning things, wishing you had things, starting to hang a plank and realizing it should have gone the other way, measuring, carrying, wishing you had a fan for ventilation hanging a couple of feet behind you, etc. etc etc.

So either maximize from the get go or have an expansion plan. At one stage in addition ot the 20' x 50' canopy in the picture, we had a 10' x 15' work area and my private 10' x 20' varnish area.

I now have a 50' x 60' warehouse and FINALLY have enough room :D

[S/V Laura Ellen]

70ft x 30ft x 25ft... heavy steel frame on 10in pine poles 5ft above ground level 4ft in ground heavy tarplike fabric over made by some mob called Clear Span Shelters

Your shed is bigger than my back yard, I'm jealous.:(

[Figment]

What should be the minimum clearence around the boat to the walls be?
Whats comfortable; is 2' each side enough?

depends on the boat.
For a wineglass-section sailboat with reasonably fine ends, 2' of clearance at the fat part of the boat can work because that means you have much more at the skinny parts of the boat.

For a broad-transom slab-sided powerboat, 2' of clearance along 75% of the length of the boat would be horrendous. You'd want 3 or 4 feet at least. Same at the ends.

You want enough room to be able to stand back and get a decent look at the coat of paint you just applied.

[kc8pql]

I had 4' at the widest part of the boat, which worked OK. Wouldn't want less though. If it's a big boat, standing headroom on the deck will make life a lot easier too.

[Wild Dingo]

Your shed is bigger than my back yard, I'm jealous.:(

Dont be jealous!! :eek: Like Margo says go the biggest you can cause your gonna need it!... I was lucky it came with the 2 acres... the 40ft seatainer and shed are new additions... Like others it wasnt that long ago (1 year to be exact) when I only had a double garage on a 900sqmtre suburban block to work in... we made a move the move bought the shed and extras... BONUS TIME!!! :D

Now me I could be jealous of both Margo and Ed... why? cause they gots the boats of me dreams sittin in their sheds!! SODS!!! ;)... aside from Waione of course! :cool:... thats got me wonderin... what sorta sheds ol JohnnoB got down in sheepchucker land I wonder?

Also... did you notice Margos wee fib? it was this one

I now have a 50' x 60' warehouse and FINALLY have enough room Now! I guarentee she would dearly love to have an extra 10 or so extra feet... you know just that little bit more so she can store just that little bit more STUFF that she definantely will maybe possibly could one day need... never enough room... or toys! :D

[Tom Mac]

Hello Joe, About the shrinkwrap, it is good for two to three years. Do you replace the strinkwrap, or get somethink else. I would think to strink the wrap as it tights the frame work. then put some kind of dark plastic tarp over it, as it gets hot under the sun. It is a nice set up you got. Thanks Tom Mac

[marsbar]

I used shrink wrap on my shed too, but I shrunk it. I think stretching it tight and fastening it without shrinking is a great idea. Mine has been up for 2 1/2 years in northern NJ and I'm thinking about recovering it. The shrinking process caused the material to thin out too much in many places, and this is where holes develop. Areas not heated that much are as good as the day I put it on. I used an el'chipo Dr. Shrink heat tool which is like a blow torch....way to much power and no way to really control it. You really need one of the proper heat tools that are over $500 to do the shrinking job properly. I am going to go with shrink material again but this time, unshrunk.

Mark
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid207/pa668bf8a00ac6f6ffc58838c6526f093/eeb27fa0.jpg

[Ed Harrow]

Ed Harrow, Good set up. After you put the beams or arches, what did you use to cover? plastic sheeting or tarp? I can not tell. It looks like you used both. This set up sounds good, make whatever size you need.What would you do difference now? Thanks Tom Mac

Things I'd do differently:

1. Be certain to have a sufficient supply of the vinyl tape to staple thru... Big boo boo.

2. For the header I used a 2x8 (I think, it might be a 2x6). If I were to build another I'd make a box beam, spaced apart with at least 1" boards on the same center as the arches (which I'd do closer than the four feet I did). Using a box beam would allow for a ridge vent. Trust me, even painted white, with a heft gable exhaust fan, it gets hot in there.

3. I used greenhouse plastic and, even on the front where it gets well blasted by the sun it has held up fine. I suspect the white paint helps.

4. The tarp is to make up for the lack of vinyl tape and staples on about 30% of one side.

5. Keep the strapping moist. Stimson said to figure on 25% failure rate IIRC. I had only two break when bending them, and there were another few I didn't even bother to try.

6. Rather than screws I used carriage bolts to hold the strapping to the spacer blocks in the arches. I think that was a good move, but next time I'd either use glue as well, or perhaps a screw or nail in addition to keep the blocks from twisting. I can't simply tighten the nuts as the fore&aft strapping are on the same carriage bolts with an additional nut and washer.

7. I didn't have the realestate, but it would be nice a foot or more wider. This could be accomplished by either using longer strapping (and I've never seen strapping longer than 16') or by making a wider box-beam for the ridge (within reason, of course).

Good luck!

[CK 17]

Hello Joe, About the shrinkwrap, it is good for two to three years. Do you replace the strinkwrap, or get somethink else. I would think to strink the wrap as it tights the frame work. then put some kind of dark plastic tarp over it, as it gets hot under the sun. It is a nice set up you got. Thanks Tom Mac

Well I don't no how long it last as the project ended for "reasons other than the shed." I used 9 mil UV resistant and it last 2 years with no sign of wear.

Just pull it on as tight as you can. It will shrink in the cold and become tight as a drum and go slack in the heat of summer.

I visited Ed Harrow's shed prior to building to get some idea of the scope of the thing.

The plans called for frames four feet on center and I used 3 feet on center, otherwise I followed the plans exactly.

Ed is correct in that I never was fully satisfied with the venting. It gets hot in the summer. I would not recommend anything other than white for a cover otherwise you'll roast or maybe even spontainiously combust in there. I would encourage some sort of ridgeline vent but caution not to mess with the design. I think some inexpensive fans inbetween the frames at the very top. Perhaps some plane old vets at the top with recirculation fans at the bottom.

As i said before, it held up to very high winds without even budging. it held a foot of snow at times and I never heard a crack.

The setup you see cost me $1000 for 30 by 14. That includes the cost of site prep issues. I had 2 feet of clearance near the maximum beam of my NIS 23. I put the benches nearer the bow and stern where I had more room.

Check with you local building inspector about setbacks and other stuff. Discuss it with your neighbours first.

I would do it again in a second.

Joe Schena

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid176/p9c9f05d7227df6895376e692d511b0ed/f3662cf7.jpg

[marsbar]

Hi Joe,

How did you attach the shrink wrap to the frames? I found the material was prone to developing holes from the stretching. I need to replace my shurnk cover and will follow your method without shrinking the stuff this time.

Mark

[Tom Mac]

Hi Joe, It looks good. I like the pictures. and it is about the same size I am trying for. I was thinking about venting. I think I would put two big vents on each side, 4 altogether. Ed Harrow, I am going to ask a dumb question, Who`s Stimson?

[CK 17]

Hi Joe,

How did you attach the shrink wrap to the frames? I found the material was prone to developing holes from the stretching. I need to replace my shurnk cover and will follow your method without shrinking the stuff this time.

Mark

I attached to the end frames only. After pulling over frame, I rapped it around a large batten 1/4 inch thick and 1 1/2 inch wide. I then nailed through the batten with 1 1/2 inch roofing nails. I plastic layed across the rest of the frames. I think the trick to preventing holes is to have as clean a fram as possible. I tried hard to make sure any of my carrage bolts were sunk slightly into the frames so there were no sharp edges.

The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building has info on a basic shed design. Stimson's plans had a little more detail however.

Stimson is the seller of the plans.

http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html

Joe Schena

[marsbar]

Thanks Joe, I have the plans from Stimson and the Gougeon book too. Will try your method of attachment.

Mark