refastening lead keel - issues!

[Andrew S/Y Rocquette]

Hi all

Have a look at the following http://www.yacht.ro/blank.php?bigpic=tn_4_new_bronze_ballast_bolts.gif&diru=&linc=race&lang=en

and/or

http://www.yacht.ro/raceboat/1_lead_ballast_keelbolts_were_replaced.gif

(sorry - these seem too big to upload normally...!).

Other pics at: http://www.yacht.ro/frame.php?lang=en&linc=race

2 questions/issues:

1) You will see the grooves cut into the upper suface of the lead, which was needed to repair damage caused in getting the old bolts out. They have now been filled with cold-hammered but not poured lead ingots (and are also dovetailed to prevent them popping out). We think they should be fine, as they will also have the bolts passing through them, and there is plenty of other surface contact with the bottom of the wood keel. DO YOU AGREE???

2) The bolt holes are about 3-4 mm larger in diameter than the new bronze bolts. We are planning on using copious amounts of 3M 5200 sticky goop on the join between lead and keel, and around and in the bolt holes in the lead. I don't think this small difference in hole and bolt size should cause issues/undue movement/allow water penetration, as long as it is all "gooped up". Again: DO YOU AGREE?

Cheers

Andrew

[Ken Hutchins]

Well with 5200 there will never be a leak, but someday a surveyor will want to see a keel bolt, and they will be impossible to remove. So what I would do if you really want to fill the space with the goop is to coat the bolts with grease to prevent sticking. Leave an inch or so of the area at the balast wood interface not greased to insure a good seal. That small amount of 5200 could be broken free with some effort to remove the bolts.

[Jay Greer]

I have two pet ways of filing bolt holes in lead keels.
One is to pour tapered lead plugs and secure them by pounding.
Second, this works for iron keels as well and for msc wet holes and seams, is Portland Cement mixed with soft bottom paint rather than water. Can be removed with a cold chisel if needed. Other wise holds till hell freezes over.
JG

[Don Kurylko]

What Ken said, but use unthickened Epoxy resin instead. By pouring it into the holes, it will fill the area around the bolts much better and reduce the possibility of any flexing that might be a problem with 3M5200. Waxed or greased bolts will not stick to the Epoxy. If they do for some reason, a bit of heat applied to the bolts with a torch or a large capacity electric soldering iron will loosen them up quick enough.

Great Project, by the way!

[George Ray]

Love the wax suggestion.
Beeswax alone or beeswax and tallow would take it to the next level. Parrifin is a bit brittle and beeswax is more flexible.