View Full Version : Who made their own anchor fairlead?
maa. melee
09-29-2005, 08:09 PM
Where's the post about that bow mounted homemade anchor holder? I believe someone made one from plywood and epoxy with a small fairlead. The search didn't yield anything.
landlocked sailor
09-29-2005, 08:14 PM
It was Norm Massinger for his "Prairie Islander". I believe he made it as a prototype. Alas, no further progress was made. :( Rick
maa. melee
09-29-2005, 08:54 PM
:(
Peter Malcolm Jardine
09-29-2005, 09:17 PM
I am making a bow pulpit from Stainless steel for my 36 foot Chris Craft. I have mocked it up in 1/4 inch plywood,(glue gun) including knocking off a pulley on the lathe out of pine...extra work, but it has worked out well. I am still playing with the height and position of the pulley, and a few other things. I will cut the stainless plate out on my bandsaw, and have someone tig it, then polish the whole thing over the winter.
I have a 33 pound stainless bruce anchor, and I want to retain the original samson post on the boat. I have cut a 8 inch wide 1 1/4 X 23 inch piece of teak as a mounting, (this will make it level with the outside mahogany rail. I have also incorporated the rub strips for the front chocks into a swept design on the pulpit. It looks like a crossbow :D
I made mine from 2x white oak with a urethane roller for a boat trailer. Hang a 35 pound CQR on 3/8 chain and 5/8 nylon. Bolted to the deck with 1/2 galvanized carriage bolts and substantial backing plates. The whole works gets painted now and then.
Ross in Bel Air
[ 09-29-2005, 10:18 PM: Message edited by: ssor ]
maa. melee
09-30-2005, 09:19 AM
Do you move the anchor line to the chock from the fairlead while anchored? The only problem I see is that since the body of the holder protrudes beyond the hull (so the anchor won't ding up the hull during weighing and lowering), and with the line thru the fairlead during anchoring, the whole setup might want to jerk itself loose from the heavy torques. I'll be making a custom fit one out of 304 SS polished with a blue nylon sheeve, if I can overcome the above dilemea.
capt jake
09-30-2005, 11:49 AM
How about this beauty? smile.gif
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid186/pf94941fa3648209c578db1c8b4f9b0ae/f2548722.jpg
imported_Jimmy
09-30-2005, 12:38 PM
I have also been looking for ideas for making my own set up. When I got the boat it had a bronze roller on the bowsprit and a windlass, but nothing to hold an anchor in the roller and if you use the windlass it would pull the chain across the caprail and tear it to shreds. Sometimes I wonder if the boat has ever been anchored. Anyway, my temporary solution was to protect the caprail with copper sheeting (cut from 1.5" copper pipe) and tie the anchor so it stays in the bowsprit and rubs against a little piece of sacrificial wood under the bowsprit. I'm still looking for a better way, maybe casting a custom fitting. I would love to see more photos of other people's set-ups.
maa. melee
09-30-2005, 02:20 PM
I'm blessed with a bow navigation light stuck dead center right where an ordinary anchor holder might be. Im thinking of having a flush mount low profile fairlead with the sheeve well forward and a chain stopper behind the light. This way, the anchor's stock sits above the light without touching it and doesn't block the light from port or starboard.
Ian McColgin
09-30-2005, 05:18 PM
Much depends on the boat. Givewn the bow light, perhaps you've a motor boat. ??
One of the simpler units I've made was for a Bristol 30 sloop. Essentially a 2"x8" plank let to get around the stem fitting. Because that boat had both port and starboard bow cleats there was no need to slightly off-set the anchor roller.
As mentioned above, the roller was just a )( sort of thing sold anywhere for trailors. I hung the roller under the platform to allow a little depth making for a nicer keeper that keeps the anchor from hopping out underweight and the anchor rode from hopping out in a blow.
I only stuck it out far enough that when the CQR anchor was fully housed on it, the plough tip missed the stem.
This is abundantly strong. The worst strain is breaking out when you could get maybe 300# verticle strain. Everything else is bled off in vectors.
For a power boat, depending on much, I'd maybe reposition the light at the front of the anchor sprit. If you make it wide enough fro two anchors, then the light can easily be centered. If one anchor, decide whether you want the anchor or the light a tad off.
G'luck
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.