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marsbar
05-09-2006, 01:42 PM
I have to resaw Phil. Mahog to get out 3/8" thick planks for my CC bottom and hull. I figure the planks will be up to 8" wide or so...12-16 feet long. I was thinking about a carbide tipped 3/4" bandsaw blade for my 14" Rigid bandsaw with a riser block. I know the saw will be working real hard to get the job done, but wonder if the carbide tipped blade would be worth the expense....or just purchase a few standard resaw blades.

Any opinions?

Bob Smalser
05-09-2006, 02:03 PM
You don't have enough saw for hundreds of LF of hard, 8" PM, regardless of blade....and 200 bucks is an expensive experiment.

Find a neighbor or local shop with a 20" or larger bandsaw and buy him a couple resaw blades in return for you using it.

Mrleft8
05-09-2006, 02:15 PM
Carbide blades are, A: Thicker kerf, meaning more waste, and more HP needed to bull them through the stock, and, B: never as sharp as a sharp HSS blade.
If it were me, I would get a few "Wood slicer" brand 1/2" blades. Unparaleled resaw performance (IMHO). Bob Smalser is correct in that a larger saw would be better, But I think that you can do it with a 14" saw, if you take your time. I've never seen, much less used the Ridgid 14" saw, but my old Delta 14" cut thousands and thousands of feet of 8" plus stock before I upgraded to a 20" saw.
Where in NJ are you? I have some contacts in Morristown that might be able to help you out.

Tom M.
05-10-2006, 08:30 PM
For a test, try resawing 6 inch scrap lumber with your saw and current thickest blade. It should give you an idea whether your saw is up to task.

marsbar
05-11-2006, 08:57 AM
Thanks for the input. I tried to resaw some 5 1/2" Pmahog using my 1/2" 3tpi blade. It cut OK, but I had to go VERY slow. Maybe with a new 3/4" blade it would be better. Good input on the carbide blade....I thought it would cut easier than a standard one....go figure. No question I am taxing the saw and a more powerful one would be the way to go. I think, however, I can get the job done with it so long as I take my time. I have no time pressure and this shouldn't be an issue. Will run the planks after resawing through a thickness planer to clean things up and dress to the proper thickness. I live in Clifton, about 30 min from Morristown so a trip there is possible if necessary.

Thanks for your input.

Mark

Bob Smalser
05-11-2006, 11:01 AM
If you look hard enuf at Amazon Tool's blade specs, you can find carbide blades with the same kerf as non-carbide blades for around 200 bucks.


But that ain't your problem. Horsepower is your problem.

Tom M.
05-11-2006, 12:21 PM
Maybe with a new 3/4" blade it would be better.

Mark

A 3/4" blade cuts straighter, not easier. In fact, I have yet to find a 3/4" blade with as thin a kerf as a 1/2" blade. And even if it did, it would still take a little more HP to pull through the wood due to the extra friction of the bigger blade.

If you are set on using your little saw for a big resaw job, I'd recommend the Woodslicer 1/2" blade for the thinner kerf.

Watch out for dust! Resawing causes a lot of dust to fly about, even if you attach a dust collector to the saw. Wear a good respirator too, or do it outside in a breeze, with you standing upwind of the saw.

emichaels
05-11-2006, 01:00 PM
I strongly agree with Smalser here. This is a pretty big job for a pretty small saw. I do a lot of resawing and I have discovered from my experience that wander and drift are greatly enhanced when the saw is operating anywhere near max HP. Bob's suggestion is good if you can find a shop that will look the other way on the potential safety issues/ their shop insurance.

Eric

Rick Starr
05-11-2006, 09:29 PM
If it's going to happen, the only blade to use is a WoodSlicer. (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1294)

StevenBauer
05-11-2006, 09:52 PM
You could also make some cuts with a thin kerf blade on the tablesaw before running them through the bandsaw. If you cut 2" deep from each side the bandsaw will only have to cut the center 4". It'll help with the tracking, too.

Steven

Bob Perkins
05-11-2006, 10:34 PM
3/4" Timberwolf blade is good too. Nice clean cut.

marsbar
05-12-2006, 07:39 AM
Great idea Steven. That will definately reduce the load on the bandsaw...and maybe the kerfs will assist in reducing wandering of the bandsaw blade.

Rich VanValkenburg
05-12-2006, 08:11 AM
The best I've done with my 12" Sears saw was the full 7" that the throat would take. I used a standard 1/2" blade, but went over it with a lense and file and made sure it was sharp. I've resawed lots of stuff with it and it seems that if the blade is the least bit dull, it'll walk or "barrel" cut. Whatever blade you use has to be super sharp.
I don't think a shop would let you use their saw. I tried that a couple times when I needed to resaw some 16" mahogany. Their insurance wouldn't cover me. Instead, I found a guy with a WoodMizer and had him do it. I needed 1/4" slabs to bend and laminate into a new dog house. That's another idea.

Rich

Bill Perkins
05-12-2006, 08:21 AM
I maxed my bandsaw out , resawing 5 1/2 in. D. Fir with the 10 1/2 in. saw . I couldn't have done it without the Woodslicer blade . It was like adding horsepower to the saw . It's a thin blade with minimum set I guess . Prekerfing with the tablesaw is a good fallback , but it means extra passes through saws and planer . I had to feed slowly , but the 3/16th laminates were ready to use right from the bandsaw(one pass ). Maybe your job is big enough to justify buying one of the less expensive power feeders available ? That could ease some of the tedium .

raycon
05-12-2006, 08:56 AM
As Rich V said a bandmill is an alternative option--probably the least expensive. Many bandmill operators/sawyers have resaw set ups for there mills. Some with powerfeeds others you have to push the board thru manually.

What kind of kerf are you talking with the resaw blades? The thinnest bands I run are .035" set brings the kerf out to .06+. You should not need to plane this surface after resawing unless the set is out on a tooth or 2 or more. So sample a piece of scrap during setup...
Look for a company that reclaims timbers for flooring. They'll have a bandmill/resaw in house set up for this task.

Rob Hazard
05-12-2006, 07:34 PM
One more hair-brained idea to toss into the pot: How about putting a bigger motor on your saw?

Lew Barrett
05-12-2006, 09:23 PM
Not so hairbrained. I think the Ridgid would be fairly easy to adapt to a larger motor.
Lew

emichaels
05-13-2006, 06:43 AM
Perhaps a larger motor, and then you would need to look at the bearings on the wheels and the shaft diameters. Your asking the saw to do more work than it was engineered for so the other components would need to be able to stand up to the bigger motor. Just a thought........

Rob Hazard
05-13-2006, 09:27 AM
I was thinking of the larger motor as a sort-of quick fix to the problem. I mean, it's just the one resawing job, right? If he's getting into a career of heavy timber work, then he's gonna need a bigger bandsaw with more cojones anyway!

And yes, I know...it's hare-brained, not hair-brained!

marsbar
05-13-2006, 07:37 PM
I was all ready to order a blade and followed the link as provided. It seems to only start at 138". Way too long for my saw. I need a 92 1/2" w/o the riser, and a 105 with the riser.

Bigger motor is another good idea.

Tom M.
05-13-2006, 11:06 PM
Scroll down Marsbar, the correct link is there for shorter blades. They offer a 92" blade, which should work, as well as 105".

marsbar
05-15-2006, 11:53 AM
Thanks Tom, I found the sized I need.

marsbar
12-17-2006, 08:34 PM
I added a riser block to my Rigid band saw and installed a new 1/2" WoodSlicer resaw blade. I ran about 130 liniar feet of 8/4", 8" and 10" Phil. Mahogany through this afternoon. Not the easiest setup to manage, but if definately was possible. Most of the planks cut very nice with a slow feed rate. As I got to the last of the 10" planks, the going became slow, cutting at about half the speed. Maybe the planks were denser or the blade was dulling. In any event, all went well and I believe the solution was the WoodSlicer blade. The cut was amazingly smooth too. Im sold on this blade and am placing an order for a couple of more.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid221/pac956c88a87999b6e49deb00b7aa5542/eb9487a2.jpg

George Ray
12-17-2006, 09:50 PM
VERY INTERESTING!

That's my saw!!! A wilton 14" with the riser block.
I bought the Wilton because they had two speed gear box for hi/lo speed and I could use it for metal work. I bought it a few years ago thinking I was buying a quality american made product and first the gearbox leaked (still leaks...I built a trough to catch the oil) and then I realized that the upper and lower wheels are 1/4" out of plane, ouch! Seemed weird to me and I have never addressed it, but it has worked in spite of that.

If you put a straight edge across the faces of both the upper and lower wheels of the Rigid, are they in the same plane or are they offset like mine ?

I also have a craftsman 12" with the pivoting head (ship saw) and the pivot head is a dream in that it allows the table to stay flat for all cuts.

Good luck with your resawing. I have yet to use my riser block or do any resawing.

Bill Perkins
12-18-2006, 03:20 PM
Marsbar ; I saved the considerable dust I produced when resawing for epoxy filler . Even the dust produced by the Wood slicer is superior ;extra fine . I've still got a couple of gallons of the stuff . .

marsbar
12-18-2006, 06:07 PM
Thanks for the suggestion Bill, I didn't think of that. That Woodslicer blade is just fantastic. I wonder if you can resharpen it when it gets dull?

Bill Perkins
12-18-2006, 06:18 PM
I don't know if you can resharpen , let us know if that works for you . My supplier will provide a new blade if one breaks at the weld , I think it's the manufacturers' policy . I did break one .