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Paul Fitzgerald
04-15-2006, 09:20 PM
I have a Towa 12" bandsaw, which looks a lot like the generic square case saws on Grizzly and probably comes from the same factory in Taiwan. It has a 2250mm (88.5") blade, and I am keen to get a few Viking blades for cutting and resawing. Unfortunately, I cant find a supplier in Oz.
I suspect I will have to have the blades made to size, and wonder if there is a good source for custom sized blades in the US?
From the look of the adjustment slots I could probably get away with 90" if necessary, as I have about 2.5" of blade adjustment left.
The other option is to buy blade strap and solder it to size. Has anyone used the Lee Valley splicing setup?

Bob Smalser
04-15-2006, 09:40 PM
I'm sure you have a saw shop locally that can braze up bandsaw blades in any size you need.

Look for somebody like these folks:

Shelton Saw Works - sheltonsaw@aol.com
261 W Business Park Lp., Shelton, WA 98584
(360) 427-5455 / (360) 427-4361 Fax
Manufacturer of Saw Blades & Sharpening

StevenBauer
04-15-2006, 10:03 PM
Lee Valley has 90" blades. You think you have trouble: my 16" Jet takes 123" blades. :) I get them from Suffolk Machinery. www.suffolkmachinery.com (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com) Nice folks.

Steven

Canoeyawl
04-16-2006, 12:31 AM
McMaster-Carr has several grades in any size and tooth count, they are very reasonably priced.
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Paul Fitzgerald
04-16-2006, 04:52 PM
Thanks for your help, I'll go and hunt around. By the way, I tried the search function first because there have been a lot of threads on bandsaw blades, but no luck. Anyone else finding old threads are lost?

George Ray
04-16-2006, 06:01 PM
It is supposed to be an almost trival exercise to silver solder your own. I have the stuff and but have not had to do yet. I have a project coming up where I may need to drill a pilot hole and thread a blade thru and then solder up a blade and install on the saw and make my cut and then break it again to get it out of the part. Hopfully it will work out to be a straight cut and I will sabersaw it but if it ends up beveled I'll get a chance to try out the solder bit.

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From the web:
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http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/dec03/dec03.html
Follow the link for a few pictures.

The following describes my procedure and a fixture used for silver soldering band saw blades ranging in size from 1/16 thru 3/4-in. wide. The fixture I use was originally built for brazing 1/2-in. blades for a small import cut off saw and is currently used for blades for my Delta upright unit and my Jet horizontal cut-off saw having a 3/4-in. blade. Even though the blade stock being used in the large saws is 3/4-in. Starrett high speed steel, the silver solder process provides reasonable service when a good anneal is completed. The annealing process is critical for the high speed steel blades. A future process to be tried is TIG welding of the blades.
Fixture: The fixture is a section of steel bar stock ( 1/4 x 1 x 12-in.) with a reduced section about 0.035-in.deep and 7/16-in. wide. The unit was made for the 1/2-in. wide blade stock. The center section is cut away to provide space under the blade to prevent soldering the blade to the fixture. Two small clamps are installed on each side to hold the blade stock in place. They are held in place with two small guide pins (old U-joint rollers) and a #8 socket head cap screw.
Blade Preparation: The blade stock is first cut to length for the saw, adding about a half inch for the lap joint, and the ends are free hand ground to a long tapered lap joint with the bench grinder. The blade ends may require a little adjustment with a hammer to insure they match in the fixture. The stock is clamped in the fixture on the first side and flux is applied to the joint area. The second side is then clamped in place. More flux is applied along with the silver solder. The solder used can be either the ribbon form or wire. I normally use the ribbon and cut a small piece slightly larger than the lap area and slide it into the joint area or cut a small section of wire and lay it on the joint area at the lap end.
Heat Application: The torch used can be either a propane or an oxy-acetylene. I find the oxy-acetylene unit easier to control. Heat the joined area slowly to a temperature sufficient to melt the solder and after the solder flows, back off on the heat and allow the joint to cool. A short annealing pass will not hurt the joint in the normal carbon steel blade stock but is mandatory for the high speed steel blade material. The high speed steel blade joint is re-heated to slightly below the melting point of the solder and the torch's flame backed away allowing the joint to slowly cool. The process is repeated two or three more times taking the temperature to a lower point each time and allowing the blade to cool slowly.
Final Operation: The final operation is to remove the flux with a scraper or file and grind off the excess silver solder and blade material to reduce the joint thickness to the required blade thickness or less to provide clearance in the saw's blade guides.


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From Fine Woodworking #40
Article on making your own blades w/ propane torch and silver solder.

Fine Woodworking website: (for member/subscribers)
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2096

PeterSibley
04-17-2006, 06:06 AM
Paul, just check the Yellow Pages under Sharpening or Saw Doctors or such.There should be 20 shops in Sydney .Be sure to mention that your saw has small wheels and buy a blade to suit a 14" saw .A thicker blade ( for a bigger diameter wheel ) would workharden and fracture too quickly on your machine.

I could give you a name for Brisbane or the Gold Coast but I've never worked in Sydney.