More on bending oak: a picture!

[Lulworth]

Here's a picture (this is really a test to see if I can do it!) of a handy way to shore a hot frame (see earlier thread). Note the notched oak piece that I screwed to the bottom of the deck beam. With a selection of precut scrap pieces (in 1 inch length increments) and a hammer to drive the shores home, the frames can be easily forced to sit nicely onto the planks. Note also the teflon sheet (3/16") used to help slide the hot frame past the shear clamp.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pce9667a13d6dda36330bed4861b737de/fd30a3e4.jpg

[Bruce Hooke]

Very clever...

[Concordia..41]

Nice job and I really like the idea of the teflon sheet at the shear clamp. This is where we have problems getting that last 7” up behind the clamp. We have been using a wide putty knife blade. It would also help where we have to go under the bilge stringer. I’m off to find some teflon.

Dave

[kialoa]

Dave
I'm facing the same with my boat. I was assuming there was no way I would be able to steam bend getting up under the clamp and bilge stringer ,but it sounds like from what you are saying, its possible. The frames on Kialoa are 1-7/8 by 1-3/4
Rich

[Ed Harrow]

I gotta remember that teflon bit, I gotta remember that teflon bit... Clever idea.

[RGM]

Looks good. 3/16" is pretty thick for most installations, unless your planking is sprung way loose. Which means your structural stuff may be waving in the wind more or less. Is all of your structural stuff true, fair and secured in position? You can really re-arrange the shape of your boat if it isn't. I like using a piece or two of sheetmetal formed to "hook" over and c-clamp to the structural member(s) that I'm trying to slide a frame under. How I install them depends on whether I'm driving from the top or over and across the top of the keel. Some folks like to use a sheetmetal "boot" over the end of the frame to help slide it along and not tear things up in the process.

[ 10-09-2002, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: RGM ]

[Art Read]

This is the first time I've ever seen actual pictures of this process. Usually, its just a written description with maybe a drawing or two. A picture really is worth a thousand words... Thanks! BTW... I must have missed it earlier... What is she? Looks like a great project!

[Lulworth]

Well gosh, thanks for the comments.
I need to correct two wrong impressions that I gave above. First, the teflon sheet (from Macmaster, I think) is more like 1/8" and as RGM mentions it can be bent to hook over the shear strake. Frankly, I think sheet metal would do just as well and I too used a putty knife for the first one. It really helps to bevel the head of the frame so there are no sharp edges to catch as you pound on the bottom end of the piece of oak to drive it past the shear strake/shear clamp. Second, I've now done six frames (with two more to be done this weekend) and I can tell you that it IS possible to do it without removing the shear strake (my first two went this way) but ultimately, if you can, it's infinitely easier if the shear strake is at least loosened.

Regarding the structural soundness. The hull seems to be fair and symmetrical (based on measurements and eye) but it is certainly true that the shape could easily be modified at this point--a longer waterline perhaps? The entire boat is being refastened but first it is being reframed and refloored. (There is also a small matter of replacing the keel timber but I have held off doing this until the boats shape is stabilized). To hold the basic shape as each old frame is removed I am filling the old screw holes (sometimes as many as five holes to a plank/frame landing) with sawdust thickened googe then pulling the new frame/plank together with temporary 1 1/2" stainless sheet metal screws with fender washers into predrilled holes(a method used by Narragansett shipwrights.) This method keeps things fairly stiff since the frames are replaced one per side at a time and allows all the hammering and pushing that frame bending demands. When the framing is done, I'll tighten up seam gaps (not really necessary for most of the boat) by freeing then edge setting the boards below and fastening with bronze screws. The garboards will be replaced to accomodate any dimensional changes.

What's the project? Well this is what I am aiming for:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid33/pd9fc8dc6f54f6dde5672f09ac442dc3f/fd410856.jpg

The starting point ($1.00 plus a dream as they say here) is shown here:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=4291348939&mode=&idx=0

David.

[Concordia..41]

David -

Great pictures in your Imagestation album. Looks like you've got everything headed in the right direction.

Keep the pictures coming smile.gif

- Margo

[Scott Rosen]

Nice idea. The picture was very helpful.