Whats your prefered plywood hatch method?

[Banjo]

Hi all,

I am building J Welsfords 'Sweet Pea' and at the moment I am putting the cockpit area together.
The inner sides of the cockpit seats are big enough to have some good sized access lids in them for plenty of storage under the seats.

I'm just not sure what would be a neat and simple method of holding them in place.

So what's your prefered method? Finger holes with rear catches? Magnetic catches? External types? I'm open to any sugestions.

[ 10-13-2003, 09:13 AM: Message edited by: Banjo ]

[George Roberts]

I like using magnetic kid proof latches.

[Banjo]

Originally posted by George Roberts:
I like using magnetic kid proof latches.Thanks George, are they the ones you have to access through a finger hole in the panel?

What about perimeter overlap, should it be on the actual hatch cover or on the main panel or seat front? I suppose it's all up to asthetics really, what looks best in your own eyes I mean. smile.gif

[Jack Heinlen]

Maybe a stupid question, but do you want them to be watertight?

I've seen a variety of designs. One has a flush hatch that is reinforced with strips of wood on the back. They have a turn button dog with a gasket of neoprene inset into the opening. The turn button puts a little pressure on the hatch, compressing the neoprene.

I've also seen a similar arrangement with shock chord to hold the hatch in place. To be reasonably tight the hatch doesn't need to be terribly well held to the panel, as water pressure is going to force it tighter.

Good luck.

[JimConlin]

Have a look at the rubber draw latches from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/)
See their number 12065A63

[Mike Field]

.
I use just a hasp and staple on Sanderling, AB. The lids are loose (no hinges,) so they can be removed altogether to allow full access to the lockers. The back edge slides in under a strip of timber that runs the full length of the cockpit and that secures it. Once the padlock's in place the cover can't be removed.

There's a raised lip on the hatch opening and a downward-projecting rim on the locker-cover (a bit like a Maurice Griffiths hatch-cover) that work to keep the water out without any other seal.

There are two lockers each side, and the covers are finished flush with the rest of each side-bench.

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/sanderling-cockpit.jpg
.

Sorry it's not much of a photo, but feel free to come and have a look sometime if that's any help.
.

[Banjo]

Thanks for the input people,

Jack Heinlen said
Maybe a stupid question, but do you want them to be watertight?

No not a stupid question at all, and yes I would like them to be reasonably water tight.
The openings will be on the near verticle (bout 15 degrees) inner face of the cockpit seats, I am avoiding the need to fit "ON TOP" hatches to the seats to keep the cockpit neat and tidy and also to try and avoid water ingress under the seats.

I think I will put the supporting lip on the inner face of the seat front, that way I can stick a rubber seal on there and then use as you described. Idealy I would like the restraining catches to be as flush as possible to avoid catching sheets and shins etc... smile.gif

JimConlin said:
Have a look at the rubber draw latches from McMaster-Carr See their number 12065A63

Wow! thanks Jim, if they don't stock it then it dosn't exist.... :D Unfortunatly they are on the wrong side of the world for me...

Mike said:
I use just a hasp and staple on Sanderling

Hey nice boat Mike, thanks for the pic and ideas.
As stated my hatch openings are on the inner face of the cockpit seats. I felt they would look neater there and still allow good access under the seats.
The young lady looks pretty happy to be on Dad's boat! smile.gif Also your rudder head and tiller shape is very close to what mine will end up as!

[George Roberts]

Banjo ---

No.

They have a separate magnet that you rub over them. It pulls back the latch.