Tahiti Ketch on the Truck

[Cullen T.M. McGough]

Today was moving day...

Here at the Rollin's boat shop we have been re-building a tahiti ketch for a client. The truck finally came today to move several boats around (including this one, ketch CLIO) from the unheated barn, into the heated barn, (Hallelujah!)

Some pictures:

First, the bow of the boat as it gets hauled out. This boat was in for a full re-framing/re-planking job. At this stage the planking has been completed and it now awaits bulwarks, a new bowsprit, fiberglass decking and all manner of bits, bobs, hardware, etc.
http://www.camphawthorne.org/finn/tahiti1.jpg

Here's a nice side shot. The hull has been fared off and rough sanded, except for one last plank, aft. The final plank will have to be fitted in the warm barn.
http://www.camphawthorne.org/finn/tahiti2.jpg

One more shot as the ketch creeps up the driveway. Note the discolored patch on the stern. This is an area that was only planked some 10 minutes before the truck grabbed it, and I haven't had a chance to fare it down and sand it yet.
http://www.camphawthorne.org/finn/tahiti3.jpg

For those interested, the ketch is 5/4 mahogany planking over brand spankin' new white oak frames. The original keel is some sort of west-coast spruce. The surviving bits of the stem are alaskan yellow cedar, joined with new yellow locust. The planks herded into place with #14 silicon bronze screws.

-Cullen

[mmd]

Thanks for the photo essay. I always find that boat-movin' day is exciting, even if the move is short.

I'd be mighty interested in hearing from you about how the boat reacts to going from cold/humid to warm/dry when she is sorta nekkid. Is she going to be primed/painted shortly, or will this happen after all the bits 'n' bobs are completed? I'd be curious about if there are any minor/nasty structural movements caused by the rapid change in climate.

Nice lookin' work. Will you honour us with more pics as she progresses?

[redsail]

Great pictures and a worthy project.
I want to know more about this fiberglass deck (You knew that would stir the pot ,I'm sure). A planked deck covered with painted canvas bedded in paint or roofing gum seems more appropriate.
Glassing the deck makes it rigid and brittle, not suitable for a wooden vessel where everything moves as it seasons, ages and works in a seaway.

[cbob]

C, 'Glass on plywood and strip planked hulls where there is minimal working movement is the way to go, but proper canvas seems like the way here, although, how much working do you get with a Tahiti ketch. I know of canvas on a plank on frame, plywood decking, boat that is still fine with, proper maintenance, 45 years later. All the Tahitis I remember were teak or fir planked, uncovered decks. If the decks are plywood this might work, who knows? cbob

[Ken Hutchins]

Ah, that looks nice. smile.gif Thanks for sharing this with us, it is interesting to see what's happening at Paul's shop.

[Alan D. Hyde]

Cullen, she's a pretty sight to see.

Old man Hanna must be smiling down on you all from above.

Thanks for the post.

Alan

[Venchka]

That's a boat! smile.gif

Good job! :cool:

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Cullen T.M. McGough]

Re: deck questions

To be more specific, the ketch does indeed have a deck of fir strips (originally varnished). The old deck was not in great shape, mostly due to the previous owner, who had removed the masts and turned it into a dockside houseboat.

In the interest of time, money and maintenance, the current plan has been thus: the fir deck was ground smooth and evenly covered with sikaflex. Over the sikaflex, 1/8" marine ply was tacked down with copper nails. Over the ply will be 2 layers of fiberglass cloth and a smoothing layer of epoxy thickened with microfibers. After all this is smoothed out, the usual paint & non-skid will be applied.

The finished product is nearly indistinguishable from a well-painted canvas deck, with at least one significant benefit: The deck edge and deck/housetop interface can be made ABSOLUTELY watertight.

I'm not experienced enough to make an informed opinion about the lifespan of fiberglass vs. canvas, but seeing some of the wrecks that come into the shop, it seems like almost nobody repaints/caulks the deck as often as they promise themselves too. As the youngest guy working here (ie. the defacto paint chipper, putty scraper, seam reefer, hull grinder, bilge cleaner etc.) I CAN tell you that sunlight is the #1 killer of woodboats. Keep up the paint and varnish, and she'll last a lifetime.

Now that it's been mentioned, I'm curious also about movement/rigidity/etc. but I don't rightly know. I know Paul has finished off several boats in this fashion, and no one has yet developed issues. But let's be honest- this is the modern world of pleasure cruising and 7-day weather forecasts. I can't say if a real storm-beater would take it as well.

-Cullen

[Cullen T.M. McGough]

[I'd be mighty interested in hearing from you about how the boat reacts to going from cold/humid to warm/dry when she is sorta nekkid. Is she going to be primed/painted shortly, or will this happen after all the bits 'n' bobs are completed? I'd be curious about if there are any minor/nasty structural movements caused by the rapid change in climate.]

The boat had not yet been caulked, so there was still a bit of room for the planks to wiggle. When I said "warm" shed, I really meant 50 degrees... not really warm, but much better than New England Winter.

That said, the wood will fight a battle between warming up and drying out now that it is indoors. Likely we will caulk it as soon as possible (not too loose, not too tight...) and then prime the hull. When spring rolls around, we'll do the remaining rounds of sanding, painting, caulking etc. Trying to achieve the "perfect" finish is a tedious and expensive affair with new planks- the first season in the water will push out a lot of the seam putty as the planks settle into stable arrangements.

Hope that helps!

-C