View Full Version : re-chroming and hardware restoration
02-19-2003, 08:03 PM
This is the time of the year when boaters are getting their boats ready for the spring. If anyone is planning on having hardware restored, I have alot of knowledge and am happy to answer any questions.
02-20-2003, 01:35 PM
I'm restoring a vintage racing dinghy built with an unusual chrome-on-brass (I presume) piece on the bow. It is a one-piece bow cap, bow handle, and stem band/protector. It has plenty of chrome remaining on it, but it's also worn thru to the brass in places. Advice welcomed on how best to accomplish it's restoration to like-new condition.
02-20-2003, 09:08 PM
The best and only way to restore the bow pc is to do it the convential way. First it must be stripped of any plating which will be chrome with nickel underneath then the copper which is under the nickel. From this point a series of many polishing and buffing operations before the pc is re plated with a copper, nickel, and finally chrome plating. Contrary to what many people think, the process is tedious and not just a "dipping into a tank" To do it right with high quality let a professional do the process from start to finish. I, myself will not re-chrome any part that someone else did the prep work on. This avoids where to point the blame when the final product is unsatisfactory. Write me back if I can help in any other way. I have a very good advice and tips sheet you should read before deciding where to bring the part.
02-22-2003, 07:59 AM
Hey mark g you're the very reason I came to the Forum today. This is a which is better way to proceed, A or B. I have need for a small (about 3") surround for a 1.5" steering column. A. The raw bronze casting (made in USA) is about $20, then drilling 4 holes, reaming out the center to an exact 1.5", cutting a slot, polishing, etc. let's add another $50. B. I found nearly the same part (masquerading as a deck rope-pull-thru fitting (for lack of a better word)) made in Taiwan, cost about $12 box says chrome plated brass. However, I would like to grind a part of it off (the boss that holds the pin for the flip lid I do not need), and cut a slot in it. But the rest of the holes I need are there, the center hole is a perfect 1.5" and it is the right size, it was polished great before plating, etc. B. would have to be rechromed since I ground part of it away so the old (new) plating would have to be removed. Which is gonna be cheaper (better), A. or B.? Thanks for your insight.
02-22-2003, 01:59 PM
Rustnrot Since it is only 3" in diameter and in good shape it is definitely less expensive to buy the one you saw, alter it and re-plate it. The majority of the polishing and shaping is done so only minimal prep needed prior to plating. This applies to most hardware.
02-22-2003, 05:22 PM
Hey Mark! This may seem a little silly but I have to ask anyway.
I recovered some door kick plates from a salvage yard a while ago. At first I thought they were copper, due to the red oxide looking appearance. After buffing it they were a beautiful bronze color!!
There was none of the green stuff associated with brass. I have been told buy a local metal worker that they are Bronze due to the red oxidation and the lack of green.
These came out of an 'old' school and had been painted black on one side.
Any thoughts?? I believe them to be Bronze???
02-23-2003, 10:10 AM
Capt jake I agree the kick plate is probably bronze. Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin made in several ratios. Your pc sounds like it has a high copper content
02-26-2003, 09:37 AM
My question regards galvanized iron rather than chrome. My chainplates are bleeding rust. They were originally galvanized. About 5 years ago I cleaned them up and had them nickle plated and I then spray painted them with car paint. That has not worked so well. As I noted, they continue to bleed rust. Currently, I am speaking with a fellow who sandblasts the metal clean and then sprays it with molten zinc. He says it produces a better coating than hot dip galvanize. What is your opinion on that?
02-28-2003, 09:01 AM
Gaffman I am not an expert on galvanizing. I think any method of applying zinc will work. it is definitely better than the home ready you tried before. The most important thing is to find the cause of the bleeding and get rid of it.
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