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View Full Version : Cleaning up CPES.



Wild Wassa
05-05-2003, 09:55 PM
What is the best clean up, for CPES, as my brushes are about to embark on a CPES journey.

Could it be soapy water, vinegar or another ? I've not found cleanup details yet.

Thanks in advance.

Warren.

warwick
05-05-2003, 10:08 PM
a loooong soak in metho seems to work, albeit not brilliantly, but rather somewhat. Best idea is throw away the brush and save money on the metho.

Wild Wassa
05-05-2003, 10:14 PM
Warwick, A very interesting reply, ... but expensive. No wonder I couldn't find any cleanup details, if this is my best option.

I suppose a sponge brush for CPES is out of the question then ? I didn't see them mentioned, as being suitable. I'll throw an unused sponge brush away, just to make me feel good, :rolleyes: .

Warren.

ps, The brush now goes back in it's box, ... thanks.

[ 05-07-2003, 04:16 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

Keith Wilson
05-05-2003, 10:36 PM
Foam brushes dissolve in CPES (don't ask me how I know this :rolleyes: ). I use cheap chinese natural bristle brushes and throw them away after use. I don't know if they're available in Australia, but around here they are about $.50 US each. Their only flaw is that they shed hairs.

Wild Wassa
05-05-2003, 10:52 PM
Keith, thankyou as well.

It will be old chinese bristles for me then. They're a dime a dozen over here. I have a few old ones, that have already shed.

Warren.

[ 05-06-2003, 12:22 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

Venchka
05-06-2003, 08:14 AM
Anyone who knows:

Is there a roller material that will work with C.P.E.S.? Disposable perhaps, but without the bristle shedding problem of cheap brushes?

Thanks!

[ 05-06-2003, 11:34 AM: Message edited by: Venchka ]

The Schooner Etain
05-06-2003, 12:01 PM
If for some reason you are determined to go with a really exspensive brush that you want to clean...Smith does make an epoxy cleanup solvent.

In his own literature though, he recommends using a throw away brush. smile.gif

You might want to get some though, if your going to use a sprayer.

Chris

Wild Wassa
05-07-2003, 03:31 PM
Originally posted by The Schooner Etain:
"You might want to get some though, if your going to use a sprayer."

To the Skipper of the Schooner Etain, Ahoy Skipper, There are many fine cracks in the ply, the slower the soak-in the better. On one of the working instructions, it says that, spraying isn't advised. Unless you meant spraying the topcoats ? The topcoats will be done with a brush and cut back heavily.

I was hoping that CPES would put the bounce back into her, as in the shot below. Photographer unknown. Photo from Western Australian Dinghy Racing Site (for research).

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p55a81e317aac9b39860a9e5d4c348c2a/fc31a015.jpg

Warren.

ps, Tony H has seen my rotten old boat, ... the rot has been ground out now. I'm using Fill-It as well. Normally I would use BC P and Norglass, marine paints, glues and fillers. I like the thin stuff, ah! and the smell of Xylene.

[ 05-07-2003, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

The Schooner Etain
05-07-2003, 04:48 PM
Well, I'm not saying that I would recommend spraying CPES, but I was quoteing from Smith's own info, which states...

"Use our 'Epoxy Cleanup Solvent' to clean brushes, rollers, sprayers and tools. This clean up should be done immediately after you are finished. When those products cure, THERE IS NO CLEAN-UP. For small jobs, you may want to purchase low priced brushes or rollers and when finished--,Throw them out."

I'll be using liberal amounts of CPES in my restoration project, but I haven't gotten around to using any yet. I'll be slapping some on the keel in the next few weeks for sure though. I'll be using quite a bit of the Fill-it as well. So far I've only bought the 3.78 liter kit of CPES, but I see a 18.9 liter kit in my future.

Chris

Wild Wassa
05-12-2003, 02:49 PM
Venchka, I used a 3" Japanese water colour brush, very soft bristles, over the three coats, and probably only dumped about 30 or 40 bristles, most on the top coat. At the end of day 3 of curing, I went over the hull with a chisel and took them off, the brush worked very well. If I suggested a short napped mohair roller (maybe it's worth throwing away), I'd still prefer the water colour brush.

Chris, further to spraying. Copied from SMITH and CO's, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, Application Instructions, Instructions for Use, it reads: Spraying is not recommended as a portion of the solvent component will evaporate in transit, and it is important that the product be applied to wood in the same formulation furnished originally.

The CPES turned the water stains on the Coachwood, to an Ebony. I can't buy Coachwood ply, in an attempt to save the wooden hull. She is being repaired with fantastic plastic.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p121869abdd9bfc297452a6b3a8a59c18/fc298823.jpg

The Coachwood stripped of the polyurethane high build undercoat. The heat gun had no effect on the high build poly.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/pcbf8a40e31aafd49663b33b1b3395059/fc298700.jpg

Coachwood as Ebony after three coats of CPES. I went through a lot of CPES. I'll have to try to save weight somewhere else on the dinghy, :D .

I did a retouch of the endgrain this morning with CPES. It went on like the first coat, the boat was still a sponge. It gives a good wet-out.

Warren.

[ 05-12-2003, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]