Rascal Runabout Pics - Final mahogany layer on deck

[Speedboy]

Below are the latest photo's showing the 1/4" mahogany planking epoxied to 4 mm okoume deck. Okoume plywood was faired prior to installation of mahogany planking.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p2b58e153b6d7379dc34072e67d9372ab/f504bc50.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p56f63c46d6036c8de3caf1eb09fc59d4/f504ba1f.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p7e34eb4c6a31d7b88de5fcd16cbec1ce/f504b8df.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p1f7f5e4c1747d664e662cf0a095f1888/f504bc5c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p39095fd0f4a7070b14a045c1516f9b66/f504b158.jpg
I just finished rough trimming the cover boards after sanding the deck with 60 grit on sanding board. I am now sanding with 80 grit. Will final sand with 150 grit. Also in the process of bonding 1/8" thick teak strips 1.5" wide to okoume plywood floorboards in cockpit. Hard to believe, but after 3 years of construction, I am on my 6th gallon of West Systems. Still aiming for a June 2005 launch.

Speedboy

Speedboy

[BrianR]

Incredible. I LOVE it. Thanks for sharing, and keep up the good work!

[paladin]

...very nice work......

[dthorton]

Wow, That looks incrediable...

[Rogue Sailor]

Awesome!

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:

[Ross M]

YeeeeeeHaaaaaa!

[GROOVY]

Oh yea thatswhatI'mtalkinabout!

[almeyer]

Looks really nice!
3 years construction doesn't seem too bad for this project, and well worth the effort.
Al

[JimD]

Looks great, Speedboy

[Memphis Mike]

She's going to be a beauty! :cool: What motor do you intend to use?

I've been thinking of building a Rascal too.

[Tom Lathrop]

Looks great.

What are you planing on using in the grooves?

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Speedboy- Looks really great- all my admiration!!
I'm starting Ray Sargeants sport runabout. Its foredeck is very similiar to Rascal- and is of course planked as you have done. What I'm thinking of doing is taking a full sheet of 1/4" okoume ply- then running a router straight bit 1/8" deep every 3" down the length of the plywood-simulating the lines between "planks".. Then I stain the plywood, fill the grooves with white colored epoxy, and when dry, finish the whole thing in epoxy. THEN cut my foredeck out of this sheet(s). Think it will work?

[Lurch]

Beautiful boat, immaculate workmanship!

[Con LanAdo]

raise a pint to this one. Looks great Speedboy. What type of electric motor are you gonna use? How many hrs. into this & how many to finish?
Way to go!

[ 02-25-2005, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: Con LanAdo ]

[Tom Lathrop]

Dale,

You may (will) have problems with the colored epoxy seeping into the edges of the surface. I would stain and then paint on a coat of clear epoxy before filling the slots. I recently did a planked deck like the one shown and had to do this to avoid smeared color in the planks. Of course, your deck will need to be developable to make out of a single sheet of ply unless you join it down the middle.

The filling will need to be put in proud of the surface and then sanded down and bubbles will be an issue. This will not be easy on the thin surface layer that has been stained. The more I think about it, the more I think this is not a good idea anyway.

Do the planking thing.

[Speedboy]

Thanks for all of the encouraging feedback. I am looking for a late model 2-stroke 60 HP Outboard, Mercury or Yamaha. If I can't find a used one, I'll have to buy a new one. According to previous builders, the 4-strokes are still a little heavy. A motor in the 200 lb. range is recommended. The 4-strokes are in the 240 lb. range. With this lightweight hull (450 lb.), I've heard it is sensitive to the additional weight of a 4-stroke.
As far as the deck goes, it might be possible to use a full sheet of okoume (5' x 10')with routed simulated lines on some designs (flatter deck). On this design, there is significant curvature to the deck, not only side to side, but also front to back. I think it would be difficult for one sheet to sit smoothly on this surface. The grooves might help the okoume make the bend side to side, but if your deck is shaped like this one, I don't think it would work. If you attempt it, I would not use anything thicker than 4 or 5 mm. Note that this design specified a 3/32" rabbit 1/8" deep to create the deck seams. The deck seams will be filled with Mahogany colored Sikaflex. I believe a previous builder cut a sheet of plywood into simulated planks and then epoxied them to the first deck layer. This may be an option is trying to keep costs down.
I am not sure how many hours I have into the boat, but I am guessing it is around 1200 so far. But this is only my 2nd woodworking project, and the last one was a birdhouse! In addition, I have very few tools, so the bulk of the work is being done with a router and a Porter cable jigsaw.
I will post more pics as soon as I can.

Speedboy

[Garrett Lowell]

"But this is only my 2nd woodworking project, and the last one was a birdhouse!"

All the more impressive. You are now my personal hero!

[gert]

lead me not into temtation; that is so beatiful!
looking forward to more pics.

[seayou77]

I built a birdhouse or two. And on the boat; after buying all the tools and renting the shop, I chose to use the Router and hand saw. The joiner and table saw are great to have, but then you need a dust collection system...
Thanks for the inspiration, Keep up the good work.

[Paulyboy]

This is the kinda boat I dream about making, using and loving. Of course, I also dream that I can afford it in the foist place. Next time I'm in New England (land that I love. Stand beside her, and guide her,....) I might have to hunt you down and stalk yer boat!

[Tom Lathrop]

Speedboy,

I had the oportunity to drive a Rascal powered with a Merc 60 four stroke. It was a gas and did not seem to be bothered by the weight. In any case the battery and fuel can be located to trim out the boat. It did have trim tabs but the angle did not have to be changed at all while running in various conditions.

[Elco's]

Hey mister, nice boat!

[Bob Perkins]

Nice boat smile.gif

It's very inspiring - there are many of us who need to catch up !

Thanks for the pics,
Bob

[Memphis Mike]

Here's pic of a finished one. Yep, this is a "must have." :D

http://www.portcarlingboats.com/ACBS1/abcs34.jpg

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

Very Nice work Speedboy. http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif

Bet ya can't wait to get some air. :eek: :D

http://www.geocities.com/olyerickson/Boat/flyingrascal_sm.jpg

[imported_chris]

Speedboy.. nice work, keep up a good pace to get it done for this year. you will be surprised how much work you still have. I found this stage slow. finding all the hardware, putting it all together and putting a finish on the boat. Its well worth the effort. A very fun and stable boat. Something to be proud of.

[brad9798]

WOW!

Looks great from here!

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Speedboy- Those sheer clamps- how did you make them? Are they sawn, steamed or what? and how thick? many thanks

[Speedboy]

Dale, the sheer clamps are 3/4" by 1 1/2" mahogany. Here are some photo's of the sheer clamps on the Rascal Runabout.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/pb1bd06a4bff60f9c88d6ea2d0ef9e2c9/f4f99347.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p17e0acb780e20b2c49bcb5ca71d5e673/f4f995a5.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/pf81f00b121c9eae164c8479be2133ab7/f4f995a8.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p38a71e7c75570595081a835bce79eb6a/f4f995aa.jpg
I did have to steam them at the ends to make the twist required between station 1 and the stem. There is also a significant twist at the rear and this also required steaming. The steaming is really not a big deal. Basically, you steam for 1 hour for each 1" of thickness, in this case 45 minutes. But this is 45 minutes after the steam chamber has reached 200 F. The key is to steam the wood right on the boat and immediately clamp it in place when you remove the steam tube. This assures you have the exact shape you want. The steaming setup is just a hot plate with a pot containing about 3" of water. I drilled a hole in the lid and mounted a fitting to the top so I could connnect an insulated hose. This insulated hose is then routed to a piece of 5" flexible duct that is also insulated. There is a cap installed in the end of the duct to mount a fitting that will accept the hose from the steaming pot. Make sure the duct and hose can handle the temperature. Since the sheerclamps and many of the other battens and planking on this boat only required steaming at the ends, I clamped the piece to be steamed in place on the boat except at the end and then slid the insulated duct over the end to be steamed (usually no more than 4 feet). A rag is then stuffed in the end of the duct to keep the steam in the duct. A meat thermometer is inserted near the end of the duct to monitor the temperature, which needs to reach close to 200 F before you start timing the steam process. After the wood has cooked, slide the duct off the sheer clamp and immediately clamp in place (within 10 sec is preferrable). This is easier if you have two people. The materials to make the steaming setup are cheap and it works great. You just have to be patient while waiting for the setup to reach temp. Here are some picture of the steaming setup when I was steaming the final planking layer.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/pd1506460d1a8339ae164fda4467ccb1e/f4f9934c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p61dba83fa4c768269c3155ab105888b2/f4f99355.jpg
Be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves to prevent burns. Don't be intimidated by this steaming process. If you can boil water, you have all the credentials needed.
After a day or so, I then screwed and epoxied the wood in place. Best of luck.

Speedboy

[Paulyboy]

Speedboy, I like the layout of your accompanying pix. These were thoughtful. You're a very talented dude! Any pix of the power components?

[Speedboy]

No Power Components selected yet! The only items I have so far are the dash gauges, and the chrome shown below. The windshield brackets bullet ends, and the stem fittings were recently chromed. I purchased the bronze castings from Maine Classics and the chroming was done by New England Chrome.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid159/p9bd29a2c0d035e4fb19652e6d0f5c211/f4f65314.jpg

Speedboy