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danh
09-12-2002, 02:13 PM
Sikkens the teak cockpit! Any suggestions on now how to remove it, it has traditional poly- seams.

[ 09-12-2002, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: danh ]

Figment
09-12-2002, 03:42 PM
did you do the full 3coat treatment?

A guy down the dock from my dad did a "one LIGHT coat" application.... it was enough to seal the wood, but not enough to make it all slippery like the full application. It still looked pretty good last weekend, but he may have done a mid-season reapplication.

my point is... if you've only done one coat, it may be a false alarm. just give it time.

danh
09-13-2002, 08:30 AM
It's got a couple coats, but too slippery when wet. I'm assuming I'll have to sand it off, but figured I would give a shot with the wood guru's here on this site before I start.

Thank you for your response.

Keith Wilson
09-13-2002, 10:27 AM
Heat gun and scraper, just like varnish. No problem; comes right off.

Oops - missed the line about the polysulfide seams. Probably will be OK if you're careful.

[ 09-13-2002, 11:31 AM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

Concordia..41
09-13-2002, 11:14 AM
Just your cockpit floor wouldn't be too large an area to hand sand between the seams. Make a sanding block from a piece of scrap wood to the width of the teak.

If it's not perfection your after, red Scotch-Brite might scuff it up enough that it'd take the slickness off and breaking the surface like that would hasten the natural deterioration.

Scott Rosen
09-13-2002, 02:12 PM
Exactly what parts of the cockpit did you defile with that poison?

If it's only the sole, then I would recommend using a random orbital sander and 80 grit paper to get to the wood. If you have the dust attachment, the job will be much more pleasant. You'll need to use something like a Fein Multimaster to get into the edges without damaging anything. Of course, you could do all or any portion of the sanding by hand, which would be appropriate pennance. ;)

danh
09-13-2002, 03:01 PM
Thank you one and all, yes it is the cockpit sole with polyS seams. I agree I should be struck with a belt sander for doing it, I just don't know what to say.

It is a rather large cockpit sole so hand sanding would be a bit much. The orbital is a good idea (originally thought belt with light grit), I guess the poly will come up with it though as the seams are a tad higher then the teak, redoing some I'm sure will be in order as well.

Again thank you and if anyone has additional ideas or flogging let me have it!

[ 09-13-2002, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: danh ]

Cedarhill Boatworks
09-13-2002, 03:06 PM
Try a really cocentrated solution of TSP and warm water with a coarse scrub brush. I bet it eats it up enough to make it non skid at least. It may well take it right off. Wear good rubber gloves and watch your eyes.

Dave Hadfield
09-15-2002, 07:33 PM
Funny, tomorrow I plan to go to Drake and finish applying the Cetol 23Plus to the last of the cockpit coaming boards. They look fabulous when done. As do my masts, booms, hatchboards and handrails. Mind you, the boards are mahogany; only my handrails are teak and on them I use Sikkens Dek, a wonderful 2-part outdoor finish.

The only Sikkens product I don't use is Sikkens Marine, which doesn't seem to last as long.

This is rank heresy I know. I only mention it in order to add fulminate to gunpowder.