View Full Version : Removing cured resin and glass

07-25-2001, 06:57 PM
I have become the proud owner of a framesless cedar stripped canoe. This elegant craft came into my hands through a relative who had a friend whose father found it abandoned on the roadside in a remote area. Apparently it had bounced off of the pavement causing a couple of longitudinal cracks in the hull. He gave it to an aquaintance that made rather a mess of trying to repair it (his approach being a whole mess of resin over matt with no regard for repairing the wood first). I have limited experience with resin, and have never tried to undo a bad application. Are there any helpfull tricks, or am I simply faced with the task of a lot of carefull chipping, scraping, and sanding down to bare wood (all 1/4" thickness of it).


PS - I will check with a couple of local shops when I get the time, but thought this 'forum' would likely net some usefull stuff, too.

Todd Bradshaw
07-25-2001, 07:47 PM
Depending upon the type of resin used, you may find that a heat gun will allow you to peel off most of the old glass and resin. It's still a nasty job, but generally beats doing it all with a sander and is worth trying. Also be aware that removing one side of the sandwich makes the hull quite flexible, so you may need to brace it well to keep it in shape as you work on it.

You can afford to loose some strip thickness from sanding and still end-up with a good hull, but be careful on areas with tight curvature as they are usually thinner than the flats due to sanding and fairing during the original building process. It's not unusual for the core of a stripper to be as thin as 1/8" in places like the curve of the bilge. That doesn't give you much leeway for sanding.

07-26-2001, 01:30 AM
You probably already know this but I'll say it anyway..... don't skimp on the protection gear. Particularly the mask. glass dust is not something you want in your lungs. The resin dust probably isn't all that wonderful either.

07-26-2001, 01:35 PM
Thanks to Todd for helping to keep my sanding 'on course' and to Puget for the 'sound' safety advice.

08-01-2001, 09:30 PM
I'm in the process of striping the glass off a 30' trawler. Most of the glass has separated from the wood so I don't have much trouble getting most of it off, but in the tough areas I've been using a heat gun. It's made the job a lot easier. I've found that the glass gets pretty hot before it's ready to come off. Leather gloves are probably a good idea. I've been using a smaller scraper to peel off the glass. It's about 1 1/2". Good luck, it's tedious work.

ken mcclure
08-02-2001, 09:47 AM
Check welding suppliers and fireplace stores for really GOOD leather gloves with cuffs that go almost to the elbow.

08-02-2001, 01:23 PM
Thanks to totrecal and kwmcclure for the handy advice regarding gloves. Just so happens my day job is with a company that has a welding shop...