Router Table Design

[Nicholas Carey]

So. I'm thinking about building a router table. My design criteria were

(1) It needs to be portable.
(2) I should be able to mount easily to just about any workbench.
(3) It should be fairly simple to build.

So I've come up with an idea for one. The top is 24 x 36 inches, designed to cantilever off the workbench. The top is mounted on a supporting framework that will allow it to be clamped to the workbench, cantilered off the front of the bench.

Here's the end (section) view:

http://www.speakeasy.org/~ncarey/images/router-table-idea.gif

The top itself is 2 layers of 18mm ("3/4 ins", actually 0.70+ ins) baltic birch plywood laminated together to form a 36mm/1.4 ins thick top.

The cantilever framework is made from 18mm baltic birch plywood as well, although I was thinking about using 12mm to save a little weight. It has 4 cantilevers with a front and back plate tying them together and it will be dadoed/glued into the top.

The outboard cantilevers will have a 6-inch piece of 1-1/2 in. angle iron attached at the back so the table can be easily clamped in place on a workbench.

It's intended for use with a medium-duty router like the P-C 690/890 or Bosch 1617 series, mounted in a standard 9-1/2 x 11-3/4 phenolic or aluminum insert.

What do you think? Will it work? Is it overkill? Suggestions?

[capt jake]

I like the design and have a few of which are simular. I am wondering about the touque created by the cantelever?? Not 'all' workbenches are built equal. Just a thought. I like be router tables fairly solid, and this is going to be a fairly large one at that. smile.gif

I would make sure to have some sort of a base, so that it can be used in this fashion as well.

[Bob Smalser]

Have a tablesaw?

Why not just lay up some 3/4" X 5/4" maple on edge and replace the right-hand outboard TS wing with it?

That way you can use the existing TS fence systems and save a passle of room at the same stroke.

Highland Hardware and others sell plates to fit the router.

[capt jake]

And I was just going to post the same thing. ;)

I have to do that with my new saw! smile.gif

[Meerkat]

FWIW:
http://www.routerworkshop.com/
http://www.oak-park.com/

Plans: http://www.wood-worker.com/plans/router/
http://www.wood-worker.com/plans/router/router.table.blue.jpg

http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WOS&Product_Code=961456&Category_Code=SJP

http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/large-router-table.jpg

http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WOS&Product_Code=961444

http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/benchtop-router.jpg

Bunch 'O Plans:
http://www.artsandcraftsguide.com/woodworking/woodworking-plans/router-table-plans.html

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by capt jake:
I am wondering about the touque created by the cantelever?? Not 'all' workbenches are built equal. Just a thought. I like be router tables fairly solid, and this is going to be a fairly large one at that.I'd though about that. The particular workbench I have in mind for it is pretty solid (2-1/2 x 24 x 72 in. maple top with a 2-1/2 x 5-1/2 maple apron on a massively overbuilt douglas fir base.)

I figure that having the back edge of the cantilever bearing against the apron should help counteract the torque quit a bit. Having moved this particular workbench on occasion, I figure it as extremely unlikely to tip :D


I would make sure to have some sort of a base, so that it can be used in this fashion as well.I hadn't thought about that. That would mean arrange the cantilever so it would be removeable. Hmmm…

[capt jake]

No, don't re-arrange the cant, just make a base on the unit, so that you can set it on something. smile.gif I quite often set mine on the floor or a bench to do something quick. Just a thought. smile.gif

I see what you mean about resting right against teh edge of the bench, this should help. smile.gif

When you said mobile, I thought it was for multiple locations, If it is staying in 'your' shop, it should be fine. smile.gif

[ 02-03-2004, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[JimConlin]

I once inherited a piece of Formica-clad 3/4" plywood, maybe 16" x 36". I burrowed a 1/4" recess for my router base and for 15 years it was my router table. Clamps served for securing it to benches, sawhorses, etc. and for securing improvised fences. Doing it again, i'd use a similar piece of MDO and a Rousseau plate.

[Ron Williamson]

Do you have a bench vise?
If so,screw a largish chunk of wood under your tabletop and clamp it in the vise.No fuss,no muss.
My favorite dual purpose is still the router/tablesaw.
R

[Bob Smalser]

Dave Fleming shows a fine one on his website:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/page9.html

[warthog5]

Here's mine.
The top is 3/4in marine ply with 1/2in MDF glued together and Formica on top and bottom. Banded with Oak and installed with biscuit's.
The 2 side pieces were spot faced in 2 places and 1/4in T-nuts were installed before those pieces were glued on. The Rails of for the fence were drilled and 1/4-20 bolts were screwed into the T-nuts.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p8df342a84754e854905da7bd38edbde8/fa93156d.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p4773bda94459fe23737ea1a7b47d1036/fa931565.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/pc8efa4529b5a9d4efcfeb713ef256c23/fa931562.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p9639959880338d5fef95a94d1bc04091/fa8fafaf.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p16c46c1e883b40a8e3f5b64d00223f65/fa8fafab.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p08a5e5c8b6c1b017cdd87512712a2281/fa8fafaa.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p8419fc1d0fa66ee71307d01451960b0a/fa8fafa6.jpg

[ 02-03-2004, 10:30 PM: Message edited by: warthog5 ]

[capt jake]

Warthog, come over for some beer and pizza to build me a replica of that!! :)D) I really like that set up!! smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

[JimConlin]

Gee dad, it's a Wurlitzer!

BUT, the original poster asked for:
(1) It needs to be portable.
(2) I should be able to mount easily to just about any workbench.
(3) It should be fairly simple to build.

[Paul Griffin]

Here is the one that I built. It was easy, the top is portable, it has dust collection inside.
http://www.plansnow.com/ultrouttabl.html

[Bruce Taylor]

Nicholas, have you considered building the table to sit on top of the bench? I suppose you're trying to keep the working height of the table as low as possible, but you might find that unnecessary. In everyday use, you might prefer the simplicity and flexibility of a benchtop box.

My router table (an MDF box, essentially) is just 9 1/2" high and has sufficient clearance, underneath, for a Porter Cable router. It sits on top of the bench -- or any convenient surface -- and I've never been bothered by the added height. Setting the table up is just a matter of lifting it, router and all, to the nearest available surface. If the bench is busy (with an assembly, say) I can set the router on a workmate, an upturned washtub, the tailgate of truck...whatever.

[capt jake]

Bruce's description is more in line with what I have done with both of mine. But I think the cantalever can still be added, if given proper thought. smile.gif

[warthog5]

No problem Jake. Better yet bring the Beer and wood. We will order the pizza from here on the phone. HeHe

Here was the point of building one like this as aposed to what was asked for.
A portable always has to be set up.

What you get with this and it asume's that you have a tablesaw.
The router is alway's ready for action.
It takes up no extra floor space.
It gives you a bigger table top on the saw.
It has a bigger table to handle larger projects.

I can't think of any negitives.

[ 02-04-2004, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: warthog5 ]

[capt jake]

I agree, Warthog. When I (if I) get the shop set back up; I intend upon doing as you have shown. Maybe not to the scale you have, but the basic idea anyway. ;) smile.gif ;)

[Jim H]

Here's one design for a portable: http://us.st8.yimg.com/store6.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1778_14208195
Bench-top router table (http://woodstore.woodmall.com/benrouttab1.html)

Here's a lift-up router table: http://us.st8.yimg.com/store6.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1778_11968025
Lift-up router table (http://woodstore.woodmall.com/lifrouttoolt.html)

Here's the one I built: http://us.st8.yimg.com/store6.yimg.com/I/woodstore_1778_12038258

Tilt-top router table (http://woodstore.woodmall.com/tilrouttab.html)

[ 02-04-2004, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: Jim Hillman ]

[ken mcclure]

Whatever you wind up building, Nicholas, just make sure that the top is ABSOLUTELY flat. Even the slightest warp will screw up your work, and can even become dangerous with some bits.

Think about using a couple pieces of angle iron on the bottom of the table to keep it true.

Nice design!

[Dave Williams]

I have been wanting to do something similar to Warthog's setup but would like to replace the table extension with cast iron (flat and heavy). Anyone have ideas of a source for such a table. The saw is General of Canada with a 52 in Beismyer fence.

Thanks.
Dave

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Bruce Taylor:
Nicholas, have you considered building the table to sit on top of the bench? I suppose you're trying to keep the working height of the table as low as possible, but you might find that unnecessary. In everyday use, you might prefer the simplicity and flexibility of a benchtop box.I did think about that, but I think I prefer a lower table height, especially if I wan't to raise/field panels with a vertical panel-raising bit. That's why I'm thinking about cantilevering it.


…Setting the table up is just a matter of lifting it, router and all, to the nearest available surface. If the bench is busy (with an assembly, say) I can set the router on a workmate, an upturned washtub, the tailgate of truck...whatever.My theory is that, with the rectangular frame on the base of the table, I ought to be able to clamp the thing in a Workmate and have it work. I believe my workmate can open wide enough to swallow the box frame, about 15 ins. or so.)

Interoperability with a Workmate is a definite consideration :D

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Dave Williams:
I have been wanting to do something similar to Warthog's setup but would like to replace the table extension with cast iron (flat and heavy). Anyone have ideas of a source for such a table. The saw is General of Canada with a 52 in Beismyer fence.A company call NuCraft used to make such a beast, but a little googling makes it appear that they have gone the way of all flesh.

If its stiff/flat you're looking for, you might consider building a table saw extension/route table as a torson box (http://www.bridgewriter.com/torsionbox.html).

Rather like an airplane wing, a torsion box is constructed of two relatively thin skins glued to a lightweight, relatively thick core.

Often the core is a simple, stapled-together framework of 1x4 or similar stock, but the core could be lightweight MDF, rigid foam, expanded paper/aluminum honeycomb, etc.

[Actually, for your purposes, if you want to dampen vibration and add mass, making the table saw extension with as a torsion box with an MDF core and plywood skins has a lot going for it. Weight isn't a real concern in a table saw. :D The dissimilar materials in the laminate (MDF being somewhat soft) tend to dampen sound/vibration transmission.]

The key to the torsion box is

(1) the skins carry the load,
(2) they're a long way apart to provide stiffness and (3) their is an enormous amount of glue area that's largely loaded in shear. I'm sure th engineers 'round these parts can go into more/better detail than I on the whys and wherefore of torsion boxes.

The trick to a torsion box is making it flat. The torsion box won't be any flatter than the surface on which it's built. Here's an article (http://www.diynet.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26946,00.html) that goes into some detail on torsion box construction, including how to make a reference flat on which to assemble the thing. Of course, if you building a table saw extension, you could probably use the saw table as your reference flat.

At any rate, the end result of a properly built torsion box is a strong, flat, rigid structure.

[ 02-06-2004, 05:20 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by ken mcclure:
Whatever you wind up building, Nicholas, just make sure that the top is ABSOLUTELY flat. Even the slightest warp will screw up your work, and can even become dangerous with some bits.I'm thinking about laminating the top on the saw table with polyurethane (short clamp time) and using a bunch of lead ingots for clamping pressure. Maybe a few biscuits between the ply layers to align everything and keep it aligned while the glue dries.


Think about using a couple pieces of angle iron on the bottom of the table to keep it true.I believe the plywood framing supporting the table should do a good job of that.

[didio]

My router table is a piece of 5/8" particleboard about 2' X 2' with a 1" hole drilled in the middle. The router is attached to the underside of the "table" with (3) 1/4" flathead screws that go in thru countersunk holes in the top of the table and into matching holes in the base of the router. (some routers come with these holes in the base--if your's doesn't it's no big deal to drill a few. Tap the holes in the base to match the screws or use plain holes & nuts). A couple c-clamps clamp the table to my work bench or a pair of sawhorses. If I needed, a guide can be set up using a straight piece of scrap wood and a couple more c-clamps.

Not nearly as fancy as some of the examples people have posted, but it works for most simple routing jobs and definitely meets your criteria of "portable" , "easily mountable" , and "simple to build"

[Dave Williams]

Nicholas,

Thanks for looking! Hope my post wasn't too far off topic.

Dave

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Dave Williams:
I have been wanting to do something similar to Warthog's setup but would like to replace the table extension with cast iron (flat and heavy). Anyone have ideas of a source for such a table.More on the cast iron router table. Last night, I did a little rummaging around the wood porn archives and dug up a Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/index.asp) review of router tables froM September/Octoboer 1999: FWW #138 (http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/fw_toc_138.asp), "A Survey of Router Tables", by John White.

One of the tables reviewed was the NuCraft cast-iron router table. The provided the company's phone number. I just called them and it works out to now be the Clayton Machine Corporation. Evidently, Clayton acquired NuCraft Tools at some point in the recent past.

FWIW, Clayton makes some very nice oscillating spindle sanders (http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/clayindex.htm):

http://www.cheyennesales.com/images/140clayton.gif

I don't know if Clayton has killed off the NuCraft router table line (it would seem odd to me to kill of the only product line of a company you'd just bought,) but you might to ring them and see:

Clayton Machine Corporation neè NuCraft
+01: 800/971-5050

[ 02-10-2004, 06:34 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Bill Perkins]

Didio I've got the deluxe version of your table in 3/4 in. HDO ply . Where the router seats on the underside of the ply was routed down to 1/4 in. thickness before mounting the router .This dap is still perfectly rigid ,while allowing maximum depth of cut ,which can be important .

[ 02-10-2004, 06:31 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]