lazyjacks

[tciboats]

does anyone have information as to size of components and placing of hardware for a lazyjack system on a 35 foot sailbaot?
Thanks....
Tom

[Ian McColgin]

Yes.

Don't buy the overpriced stuff you see in marine stores.

Most lazy jack systems, and certainly the one I advocate, are not suitable for roller reefing.

Most lazy jack systems are either too tight when the sail is up, too slack when it's down, or in need to constant fussing. The following solves all those problems and will act as a topping lift into the bargin.

You'll need a couple of pullys to place under the spreaders, perhaps 4" out from the mast. You'll need two ss thimbles. The last bits of hardware are two fairleads and one cleat that will go under the boom.

I'll leave it to you to measure enough line after you draw the thing. 3/8" three strand dacron will do. If you've the splicing tools and know-how, dbl braid is also fine.

Divide the boom in quarters. Let's call the spot 1/4 of the boom abaft the tack station #1, midboom #2 and 3/4 out to the clew #3. You'll end up with the fairleads at #2 and #3, the cleat at #1.

It's easiest for striking the rig in the fall and reassembling in the spring to use open bottom fairleads so that one bolt can be removed, the other backed a little, and the line thus released.

Anyway, the plan:

A line passes under the boom at #3, up on each side through the pully on the spreaders and back down. In then end this line will end at a pleasing distance above the boom. An eye in each end, with thimble. Then a line from under boom at #2 up, through the appropriate thimbles and down to #1, the cleat.

If you draw this, you'll see that the line ending at the cleat has half the strain as the line to #3. Thus #3 will be the place that holds up the boom when the sail is not. It really will work out that once the sail is up, there's just enough slack that the leeward jacks will sag out but be against the sail and the weather jacks will be moderatly snug and not flail about. When you tack, the whole will shift as there's movement under the boom at #2 and #3.

You may need to put some chafe guard on the boom if it's varnished. This is not a high speed high wear thing and paint will stand up just fine.

Since it's not highspeed high wear, this also shows the fatuousness of using pricey bullett blocks in the hanging part of the rig. Yes, the thimbled eye has a bit more friction - who cares. And yes it has a bit of chafe. Mine only last 15 years. Darn.

Anyway: How to rig.

Keep your line in a long uncut form and cut only as needed. Set up #3 fairlead. Feed a block onto the line, the line through the fairlead, and other block on. Tie the end of the line someplace handy like the rail and shake out some slack so the mess will follow you up the mast.

Up you go with the port block tied to your own port quarter, stbd block to your right. You'll be pulling out two bights. Secure the blocks under the spreader however you like. Personally, I just lash/sieze them in place. Looks nice. Lasts more than a decade. Lighter and stronger than screws.

Come on down.

Now for the fun. Untie the end at the rail, splice a thimbled eye in, and secure a gantline to the eye. Run it up to the block under the spreader. Wherever is convenient - for me about waiste level when leaning against the boom - cut the line and put in your second thimbled eye. Run the end of your topping lift line through the thimble you can reach and run it up to the spreader by pulling down the other eye's gantline. Let out a bight on the ascending eye so you have both ends of the line. When the descending eye gets within reach, pass the end of your lazyjackline through #2, through the eye, and then back down. Now raise it till the two eyes are at the same hight.

Finish off with an eye that will fit the cleat at #1 snugly and enough line for tieing down the other side.

Maybe someone on Cape has a digital camera and we can photo and post this as they are on Grana to be more readily understood.

G'luck

[tciboats]

Thank you, Ian and Chuck (paladinsfo),
Your description and the drawings Chuck sent e mail are great. Looks like I have most everything as spare parts to start assembly. We will take pictures, but then I will have to learn how to post them.