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Konrad in Lincoln
10-19-2004, 09:05 PM
Hey all,

Guess what? A non-political but still off-topic thread for you guys. :cool:

I'm not working on a boat at the current time, but I've really gotten the itch to build an indoor shuffleboard. (Not the floor kind, the stand kind, like in bars and pubs)

Info online is somewhat rare. Here's where I'm at, at the moment. This is all just talk right now, so feel free to chime in with suggestions, comments, heckling, etc...

The playing surface is of course going to be the hardest part to build correctly. It has to be dead ass flat, with no warping. From what I gather online, shuffleboards range from 9' to 22' in length. Due to basement space, I'm aiming for about 12'. I'm thinking of doing an MDF substrate box construction, possibly (probably) reinforced with aluminum extrusion (salvaged material) or steel or something, and then perhaps buying some hardwood flooring to go over the top.

If I can get the playing surface good, the rest of the assembly shouldn't be too bad, just a matter of how fancy I want to get. Thoughts on the playing surface construction? I really don't know exactly what they put on the top of the playing surface yet.

alteran
10-19-2004, 09:14 PM
Try asking the question here.

http://www.woodworking.com/

I think that was addressed there quite a while ago. Someone may remember.

Al.

huisjen
10-20-2004, 07:40 AM
Katey here, not Dan.

By the time you have hours and hours into constructing and finishing this possibly flat wooden surface, would it be less expensive to go find a slab of granite, or maybe a lab-style benchtop blank? Would look cool too.

Dan guesses that the surface treatment is wax, and lots of it.

Chadd Hamilton
10-20-2004, 08:04 AM
I too have thought it would be a very cool project. I just don't have the space. Man, I wish I had a basement.

You're right on track though. Use MDF as your sub-surface-properly supportted to prevent sagging- followed by hardwood flooring, followed by Pourable Clear Epoxy(the same stuff you see on alot of bartops).

As for the surface dressing. Of the tables I've seen and played on I've never seen a "waxy" top. The shuffle discs slide with the aid of cornmeal sprinkled on the surface. Read my lips "No More Waxes" :D

Best of luck.
Chadd

Iceboy
10-20-2004, 09:05 AM
Made ours out of an old hunk of bowling alley. Dead flat and heavy as hell. Just copied the layout from a comercial one in a pub. Bought the pucks from an amusement vendor.

Popeye
10-20-2004, 09:11 AM
You couldnt make yourself a puck?

How much to buy a good puck?

Iceboy
10-20-2004, 09:19 AM
Yeah we made some pucks out of various materials. We didn't have any metal working machinery so they were a little rough. Eventually bought the used set for $30. The table now sits in a local tavern and is used daily. Just sand it off once a year. Oh yes, do use the corn meal. Wax really messes with the sander when maintaining.

Bruce Hooke
10-20-2004, 09:57 AM
Torsion box construction is a good way to create a very flat and sturdy surface. The key to getting it to be flat is creating a dead flat surface on which to assemble the torsion box because once it's glued together it will stay in whatever shape it was when it was assembled! The basic principle is two flat sheets of material (such as MDF or plywood) separated by a grid. I would probably make the torsion box using, say, MDF or plywood, with pine, ply, or MDF for the grid; and then once you have it made surface the top with hardwood flooring to provide the playing surface.

Here are a couple of pictures of torsion boxes that I found on the web:

http://www.ccsi.com/~mbrown/Woodworking/Tool_Cabinet/TorsionBoxSmall.JPG
http://www.alan.net/prgshops/Images/workbench.gif

Bruce Hooke
10-20-2004, 10:02 AM
BTW -- In my opinion a properly built torsion box made of wood should be quite sufficient. I don't think you will need to reinforce it with aluminum or steel.

I would put the legs about 1/4 of the way in from each end to reduce the distance that must be spanned between the legs. Angle braces going up from the legs might not be a bad idea either. I would also plan on attaching some sort of adjustable height "feet" to the bottom of the legs unless your floor is dead flat, because if the floor is not flat a torsion box is so strong that the table will probably rock rather than flex to sit flat...