How do ya match existing nonskid when replacing part of deck?

[Bill Dickinson]

My constant nemises ROT got into my toe rail, rubrail and plywood deck on Picnic my Chesapeake Bay Built. The area is about 5 feet long with about 9 inches of width where i will scarf in a new humk of plywood deck. Lots of epoxy and a layer of glass will get thing back together. But how do i match the non skid on the adjacent deck.

The sand which gets put in the paint makes nice sandpaper. But my existing non skid is a more coarse particulate which seems to be made up lots of random size chunks (small) of something. Is this the famous walnut shells??

Does anyone know a resource for a variety of non skid textures? I would like to apply the textre to the final expoxy but also after painting the entire boat, the next coat needs anti slippage added in the paint.

Thanks for you thougnts. :D

[Wild Wassa]

Repair the anti-skid with the old build-cote philosophy, ... slowly, and when you look like you have evened out the texture, to marry with the old, you might need to put a fine wash over the repairs to imply age, which helps blend the new paint with the old.

The paint's wet value isn't the same as it's dry value, that's why the wash or stain that I suggested (if needed), can add to the 'unseen repairs'.

Brushes move the grit around, rollers can work well, be aware that the grit can shift and gather by over rolling. I find the grits (all sizes) even out, after a few coats. Don't overlap the existing anti-skid too much, per coat. Rub back the existing grit's broken edge well, this will help hide a step. Otherwise the thickness and texture can increase heavily in the overlap.

Warren

[ 10-01-2003, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]