More help with steam bending??

[dmede]

I am going to be steam bending a cutwater on to my canoe stems soon. The cutwater measures 3/4" wide and molded 1 1/8". So it will need to bend through the thicker dimension which sounds difficult. Can that be done or will I need to laminate instead? Any tips on doing this? I have Greg Rossels "Building Small Boats" which has some good info on steam bending but is particular to thin frames not thicker peices. Thanks.

Dave.

[ 10-17-2003, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[Jack Heinlen]

It'll work fine if: You've got good stock, straight grained(perhaps even riven rather than sawn) and green being ideal, you cut the stock so the rings are perpendicular with the flat of the jig, you make the stock long so you have some leverage, you have extra stock 'cause some pieces just break.

The books give a good road map. I'm assuming you are going to build a jig rather than bend them in place? If so, over bend them maybe ten percent to take up the spring back. Oh, and don't shape the stem(s) until after bending.

Good luck.

[Bruce Taylor]

1 1/8" is a thickish bend. A Jack says, don't thickness the stock until after you've done the deed. If you thickness to 3/4" before bending you risk a warped or twisted bend. Best to leave the stock square, and thickness later, or....

laminate it. A laminated stem is strong, looks good and takes a rabbet as well as any steam-bent stem. Also, it allows you to use nearly any wood you please...including hard-to-bend softwoods like doug fir or spruce.

The stem on my cedar lapstrake canoe is laminated white spruce, 2" X 3/4". It is stiff and light, and easy on the eye.