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Ronin NW
02-22-2005, 06:12 PM
So it looks like my forehatch varnish kinda failed in a few spots (wasn't someone supposed to keep up on that?), so I stripped & cleaned it all up, but I'm not sure that I should finish it as it was before. Here's the deal:

It's very stout (and heavy), squarish, 'laid teak' on a plywood subdeck (the only subdeck on the boat). It's got mohagony trim around it, and oak coamings (right word?) that fit around the hatch coamings on the foredeck. The teak planks are each separated by about 1/4" of rubbery seam compound, and there's a solar fan in the middle.

The whole thing was varnished over, which was quite pretty, but I kinda hated walking all over it, since the foredeck's a bit cluttered as it is, and it's prone to get some abuse. When I took up the solar fan housing, the wood just under the housing was nicely gray, so it does appear to be teak and not mohogany. My concern is that the varnish went right over the rubber seam compound. It seems (ha!) that since the seems stand a bit proud (even with vigorous sanding), any varnish over them will inherently crack under pressure as the rubber gives.

There's a similar situation on the engine room hatch: similar construction but without the trim, and cracks appearing in the varnish above all seams. Mushroom vent instead of fan, so no weathered wood to test. Might be mohagany instead of teak.

So my thought is to either: 1) varnish the mohogany trim and oak coaming, letting the teak weather; 2) varnish as above but oil the teak to keep it pretty; or 3) varnish the whole thing but tape of the seams (probably too much of a pain and I'd just varnish the whole durn thing again... which would at least protect the subdeck as well).

Am I too eager to improve the situation? (i.e. should I just be more diligent about my varnish and not blame the seam compound?) Part of this is admittadly an aesthetic dilemna I'll have to come to terms with: there's no oiled wood above deck; the decks are well-weathered gray, and everything else is varnished.

Sorry, too busy this weekend to put batteries in my camera ;)

Any thoughts would be welcome.

-Scott

Jay Greer
02-22-2005, 06:55 PM
A tool I use on seams that stand too proud is a "Race Knife". This is a folding clasp narrow gouge that cuts on the pull and is used for marking timber cants in the mill yard. Another tool is a standard wood carving gouge. On varnish jobs, such as you describe, I cut in up to the seam and leave the rubber bare.

chucksw
02-22-2005, 07:07 PM
I had a hatch section like that that was teak. They varnished over the teak and seam compound, and it seemed to be OK, until the varnish lifted after several years of neglect. But I like Jay's idea, varnish up to but stop at the seam compound. I stripped mine and just let it weather with the deck and that looks good too. You can do either way, but varnished teak is slippery when wet. On a foredeck, could be a hazard.

Chuck

ssor
02-22-2005, 08:33 PM
Isn't the purpose of teak on deck a nice non-skid surface? perhaps a little oil now and then to reduce checking. But varnish on deck is just more work. And on teak, work without benefit. :D

John G
03-26-2005, 11:05 AM
Hey Scott -

We rebuilt Erica's hatches, had the same issue, and ended up going with the varnish over the seam compound. It flaked in a few places on the rubbery seam compound after a couple years in the So Cal sun, and we just sanded/varnished over 'em again. On the forward hatch, we left the trim off the edges and rounded everything off, seems to shed water better. Then to try to stay ahead we made a sunbrella hatch cover...

John