Stripper Melonseed Update

[BrianR]

Well, the last time I shared, the hull was done. I've not gotten the deck on. I used a product which is essentially end grain balsa wood sandwiched between two sheets of fiberglass. Super strong, super light. For a "non-skid" surface, I'm put a 10oz. glass on, with a thin epoxy. It'll be painted with Kirby's "Sand" color.

Mahogany Coamings to come. Still deciding on the front hatch cover.

Mahogany rub rail as well.

I have sufficient scrap mahogany to make the floor boards too. Is there anything wrong with this idea?

Then, on to the rudder and daggerboard.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p36feb143e4c6a322d4a08a555d128573/f50fc6b0.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p3ae1f0b1532dbf80a15f6351ce294c16/f50fc6ae.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/pbc1f752ca3353b0904f84076b1ee60ea/f50fc6a5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p8b85fdefe49934aca5001f2bf0db2b51/f50fc69f.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p1b79ef376706a8d5c7db3b7d120f7873/f50fc69b.jpg

[ 02-20-2005, 07:05 PM: Message edited by: BrianR ]

[Steve Lansdowne]

Looking good, particularly the contrasting strip on the sheer. Is that a bulkhead with two holes for round access plates I see up front? Are you going to seal the hatch cover tight to make the front section airtight for flotation?

[BrianR]

Thanks Steve. Yes, those are two hatches in the bulkhead. They have a rubber seal. The top hatch will also be "waterproof" to the extent I can make it so. I'll place some rubber weather seal on the coaming to seal onto the hatch. It'll be "fastened" with a bungie cord to the bottom.

[ 02-22-2005, 09:10 AM: Message edited by: BrianR ]

[paladin]

what kinda outboard? hP?

[Rogue Sailor]

There are no sweeter lines. Nice craftsmanship too. You should be proud. What a sweet boat!

Joe

[Paul Scheuer]

Nice job.

What's the edge treatment for the balsa core ?

And, what fastening method for the deck ?

[BrianR]

The balsa edges are getting CPES, and the a good smear of epoxy. The deck was fastened with 5200, screwed down every 9 inches or so with a wood screw and fender washers. Later, I removed the screws, filled the holes, and glassed over.

Anyone have an objection to using mahogany for the floor boards?

Thanks for the compliments folks.

[almeyer]

WOW! Really nice job, Brian.

[guillemot]

Looking sharp!

What types of wood is she?

[Steve Lansdowne]

Are you thus trying to "seal" the bow portion airtight for flotation, including the mast through the deck?

[cs]

More and more you guys are making think about making that my next boat.

Chad

Great job!

[Garrett Lowell]

Looks sweet.

[BrianR]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I really don't think the fore compartment will be airtight for flotation. For that, the entire deck, fore, sides, and aft, has the pink styrene (I think that's the name)insulation. You can't see it, but its in there.

The hull is made of western red cedar strips which I made. The strip along the sheer line is a piece of mahogany sandwiched between two pieces of pine. I should have made them a strip or two lower however, as I failed to take into account the mahogany rub rail I have yet to fasten.

The coaming will be mahogany. The stem and tiller are made of mahogany and ash. The daggerboard and rudder will be mahogany ply. The floor cleats are ash, the boards mahogany.

I appreciate all the encouragement. Can't wait to get her on the water.....

[almeyer]

The hull is made of western red cedar strips which I made. The strip along the sheer line is a piece of mahogany sandwiched between two pieces of pine. I should have made them a strip or two lower however, as I failed to take into account the mahogany rub rail I have yet to fasten.

The coaming will be mahogany. The stem and tiller are made of mahogany and ash. The daggerboard and rudder will be mahogany ply. The floor cleats are ash, the boards mahogany.
That's gonna be one very pretty boat. So what color are you going to paint it? :D

[BrianR]

Thanks. Below the waterline, I'm going to use Kirby See Red (which is a very dark red). The deck will be Kirby's "Sand" -which is a shade of beige.

[ 02-23-2005, 08:03 AM: Message edited by: BrianR ]

[almeyer]

I was joking. With that pretty wood, do you really want to paint it?
Al

[Steve Lansdowne]

I'm planning on afixing pieces of sheet styrofoam (the blue stuff) flotation to the underside of the deck on mine, which at this point is only just begun to be built. What adhesive did you use to attach yours, assuming that is what you did?

[BrianR]

You know guys, if I could, I would have left the hull "Bright". However, this was my first "stripper" and I found that I needed to use some filler in my epoxy to "fair" it out in spots. You'll see the white clouds on the hull now. Can't stand that! Gotta paint from approx. 6 -8 inches from below the sheerline. At least I'll have 6-8 inches bright.

As for the glue, I used the low expansion "Stuff" which you get at the big orange store - you know - the stuff which you use to seal cracks in window moldings, etc.

Good luck guys.