any polysulfide seam products in Australia?

[ian webb]

Hello all

I'm about to haul my 1946 H28 and anticipate I may need to repay a few seams above and below the waterline, but i'm having a hard time finding a polysulfide product down here in Aus.

This is my first haul out and first boat so would be very grateful for any advice from the forum, been reading alot here for quite some time.

As a footnote my H28 (sloop rigged) was built in California by a minesweeper manufacturer, sailed down here in the 70s, had the cabin chopped about a bit, so doesn't really have the look of a classic, but i'd still like to do as good job as i can. I've repaired the cabin and kept the epoxies away from the hull, whilst i slowly (very slowly as it turns out) try to extend her life, she was on her way to the wreckers when i bought her.

Anyway, any assistance with Aussie polysulfide and lead paint substitutes much appreciated,

ian.

[sgunns]

Ian,
I have been restoring a 60 ft 1924 Nicholson ketch for the last 2.5 years. While I can't help with your particular query, as most bulders seem to use Sikaflex for caulking, I have a fair experience and may be able to help at times. I am in Sydney, North Shore.

Steve

[formerlyknownasprince]

Sika won't work if an oil-based product has been in the seam before - it'll just peel out.

I've been gradually re-doing the below water seam caulking on a 50' cruiser for the last almost six years - whatever needs doing when we slip her.

We use builders putty and a bit of grey anti-fouling primer mixed in - use a paint blender on an electric drill. I've had no problems with what we've done - we just rake out any of the old caulking that seems dried out each time (ie from before my six years), prime with the grey primer and fill with a putty knife. My shipwright mate says that that is what we'll use when we get to the topsides too.

Ian

[Stiletto]

Polysufides are used in the glazing industry, You may find something there, but I would go with what Igatenby said.

[ian webb]

thanks for the replies, the builders (gazing?) putty with Primocon sounds like a likely solution. i have one seam weeping, and will try to figure out why when i pull her.

I'll also be pulling some old Gal fasteners that are causing rust streaks if I can get them out, to replace with silicon bronze. Anywhere you Sydneysiders know to get part boxes of these.

Sgunns, i'd be interested to see how your restoration is going, i'll drop you an email.

cheers, Ian.

[maa. melee]

Which putty are you talking about, window glazing or plumber's putty when refering to 'builder's putty'? Isn't glazing some sort of Linseed Oil mix and a powder?? (why does chalk dust come to mind? white lead?)

I'm trying to figure out how to make a fairly cheap compound, something along the lines of plumber's putty mixed with antifouling primer, alittle BLO from better workability and no lead. Maybe skip in the antifouling for topsides and deck and just use an oil paint with high solids and mix in alittle ADD-2 anti-mildw,critter,biocide stuff.

Really looking for a traditional mix here without lead. Yes, yes I'm aware of Bear-Sh*t.

[Stiletto]

I've posted this before, recipe for shenam, the goo used to pay the seams of the old scows. Copied from High Tide, Harper Collins Publishers 2002.

"Mix up tar with a sprinkling of cement, add a dash of tallow. Heat it up, stir well and let cool. Once you get it right it's beautiful to use , like plasticene. It sticks to anything, even oily wood. Prime over the shenam before antifouling. dont use on seams above the waterline though, or the tar will leach through the paint."

Is that similar to bear****?