Planking sides

[Myslow]

I am trying to put 24ft by 4ft plywood sides on my Karl Stambaugh 1GM10 launch. When I get the chine fair, the sheer line is awful. The gap at the sheer goes from touching a frame to 6" off the next one.
If I work at the sheer, the chine gaps are all off.
I started at the middle frame and worked out in both directions.
Anybody got a chainsaw???

Thanks

[Thad]

Yes.

[Mike Vogdes]

Usually you start at the bow, sometimes at the transom, I've never heard of starting in the middle.

[pcford]

I am not sure I know what is going on but one of the principles of boatbuilding is to make your fits as simple as possible. It sounds like you are trying to do two fits at once. If possible, fit the chine and let the sheer run wild.

[pcford]

Oh, and manhandling 24 ft. panels can't be any fun.

Is there another way?

[JimD]

Originally posted by pcford:
Oh, and manhandling 24 ft. panels can't be any fun.

Is there another way?This is where you need a freind. If only dogs had hands instead of paws. Can you find someone to help?

[Bruce Hooke]

It sounds like the shape of the side panel is incorrect relative to the structure it is supposed to fit on. Did you pick up this shape from the existing hull structure or did you use a pattern included with the plans? If the former then it should just be a question of getting the panel to lie flat on the frames and then remark and recut the edges. However, I'm guessing that the shape of the panel came straight off the plans. In that case I would probably start by trying to figure out where things went wrong. Check the layout of the panel against what is specified on the plans. Check the dimensions of the hull in some key places.

Assuming the panel will lie flat on the frames (as long as you ignore how it meets up with the chine and sheer lines), how wide a gap are you left with at the chine and sheer in the worst spots?

[Myslow]

Stambaugh told me to hang the entire sheet (24x4) and then mark and cut it. It's not working too well.

[Bruce Hooke]

OK, so this is a situation where you spliced together sheets of plywood and you are now trying to fit the resulting big sheet to the boat and mark where to cut the sheet to fit the hull, right? If so, then I am bit puzzled about the problem you are reporting. When you are simply laying the big sheet over the side of the hull to mark where to cut it for the sheer and chine does it lay flat on the frames (it should simply overlap the chine and sheer so it shouldn't matter what happens there at this point). If it will not lie flat on the frames then you have not faired the frames, but a 6" gap is not in the realm of a fairing issue. Fairing issues are usually measured in fractions of an inch. You do realize that both edges of the big sheet (the chine and the sheer edges) will need to be cut into a curve, right? Trying to force one of these edges to be a straight line would create the kind of issues you are describing.

I don't see any issue with starting at the center when trying to fit this big sheet. With one person it would be hard to manhandle this sheet into place in any other way. If the sheet misses the chine or the sheer at either end then it may be necessary to adjust the position and angle of the plywood at the center frame, but that is not a big deal. However, if there is a good bit of twist that needs to be worked into the plywood at the bow or the stern then it is best to start by fastening or clamping down that end and then working from there to the other end frame by frame.

[DougWilde]

Make a template out of luaun. Much easier to handle.
Start at the bow because that rabbet is the most critical fit. Everything else flows from there. Use the pattern to mark and cut (oversize) your final planking stock.

Take a look at Planking a Windward 15 (http://dbwilde.home.comcast.net/Williwaw/planking.html)

my planking of Karl's Windward 15. Hanging that 24 foot piece will be a lot of fun.

Doug Wilde

[Myslow]

Frames have a radius in them so what I think I'm trying to do is compound bend plywood.(a curve along the frames and a curve from bow to stern).

I almost wonder if the job is "doable" with plywood.

And yes, I know I will have to trim at both the chine and the sheer.

The 6 inch gap is caused by a real bow out of the panel at certain frames. Other frames fit well. In some places, the bow out is between frames.

Really appreciate your ideas and thoughts guys!!!! Thanks